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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed the power steering bracket, took all the bolts out of my alternator and it will not budge at all. I'm wondering if it's corroded into the bracket? Does anyone have any advice how to get this thing unstuck? My G8 was previously driven in the winter when it was my only car so it's got a lot of corrosion.

I was thinking about taking a big flathead screwdriver and trying to break it loose that way? From the top where you can see this gap. But not sure if anyone has had trouble getting the alternator out... and might have tricks or advice on what I could possibly do to break it loose? Thanks

185482
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
got it out, but it took a really heavy duty prybar style screwdriver. I broke two smaller ones and this one barely budged.

185486
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the old one is really crusty and gross. it's making bad noises when I spin it too lol. Got my
92258220
ACDELCO upgrade in the mail scheduled for delivery tomorrow!
 

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Good you were able to remove the alternator and a genuine AcDelco replacement is by far the best way to go.
 

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I seem to remember that problem also when replacing my Alternator for the one (an hopefully) only time. Thinking that little lip was positioned at the ouboard edge of the casting. Can't remember how I attacked that obstruction. Maybe I positioned the Alternator inboard a little above or below the bracket castings bolt holes an pryed up or down to avoid that lip problem. I know it wasn't the comfortable slip fit I was hoping for.
 

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ok so I'm trying to get the new alternator in and it's even harder to get into the bracket than the old one was to get out. is there any trick to getting the new alternator in? seems like there's a flange that's preventing the new one from sliding in on the top edge of the bracket
remove that bracket....then work on it outside the car..... I worked (rubber mallet) the bracket back on ...but outside the car... once you got bracket reposition back on....put the alternator and bracket back as one piece.... make your connections and bolt it back up.
 

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Post a picture of the front of the bracket, is there a steel sleeve at the front holes?
If so, they should move with force.
They are to make up tolerance between brackets and alternators.
Goes in a little loose then bolt pushes sleeve up to alternator .
Often have to free up sleeve with lube and vice.
Proper chosen sleeve and socket used to push on it.
They are tight but not so tight they won't move before the bracket bends or breaks.
 

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check the bracket at the lugs for cracks seen plenty that crack there have been fitting these at $120 aust on Amazon delivered just use your own rear bracket overrun pulley is good upgrade Aussie beau
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
remove that bracket....then work on it outside the car..... I worked (rubber mallet) the bracket back on ...but outside the car... once you got bracket reposition back on....put the alternator and bracket back as one piece.... make your connections and bolt it back up.
You were absolutely right. There's literally no other way to get the alternator into that bracket. I tried pounding it into the bracket while it was in the car... NO WAY JOSE. Holy **** ... even outside the car it took me about an hour to pound it into the bracket. This is quite frankly a really poor design because I had to slam on that bracket with my sand mallet for an hour. Can't be good for the alternator to take that type of beating.

It's actually only one extra bolt after you've taken the alternator out. But yeah, basically had to sit there slamming it insanely hard to get it into the bracket.

I appreciate you helping me out on this. And also once it was in the bracket getting all 4 bolts aligned at once was a major pain in the ass! I had to loosen and tighten them in a specific order to get all 4 of them in. I'll detail that in a future post when I've got this finished.

Had I known it was going to be this much work I'd probably have just taken it to a professional mechanic. I saw a video on youtube where the guy just slid it in and out of the bracket... whereas I'm sitting there slamming it with a hammer for an hour to get it aligned.

the alternator is now in the car but I didn't have the energy to put everything back together tonight.

I wish I had done what you suggested from the get go because at one point I dropped the alternator on the lowside coolant lines and I think it's leaking coolant now from that. Had I just done what you said it would have saved me several major headaches. I guess I'm replacing the serpentine belt now too because there's a tiny amount of coolant on the existing belt. Luckily I've got one in my garage but damn, that would have saved me a lot of trouble.

I plan on doing a full KB writeup on this with pics and possibly a vid after I'm all done. I'm not a great mechanic but there's a lot of stuff I wish I had known before I started this. So I figure maybe it would help someone else out

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and here she is in the whip!!! thanks @machist8 =]

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Like I said, those sleeves should move.
With them not seized, rocking the alternator pushes them forward, allowing the alternator to slide out and back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Like I said, those sleeves should move.
With them not seized, rocking the alternator pushes them forward, allowing the alternator to slide out and back in.
there's no rocking or pushing with this bracket. it's brute force (pounding extremely hard with a hammer for an hour) to get the alternator in. I'd recommend buying an aftermarket bracket (if that's possible). the stock design is horrible
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Like I said, those sleeves should move.
With them not seized, rocking the alternator pushes them forward, allowing the alternator to slide out and back in.
Like I said, those sleeves should move.
With them not seized, rocking the alternator pushes them forward, allowing the alternator to slide out and back in.
Ok, I see what you're saying now... yeah maybe they did originally move but there's no way they're moving now. sounds like maybe the right thing to do would be buy another bracket. too late for that now. those mother*******s are not budging even a micrometer. I'm guessing it was the michigan weather that did them in. we need a KB for alternator removal methinks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Post a picture of the front of the bracket, is there a steel sleeve at the front holes?
If so, they should move with force.
They are to make up tolerance between brackets and alternators.
Goes in a little loose then bolt pushes sleeve up to alternator .
Often have to free up sleeve with lube and vice.
Proper chosen sleeve and socket used to push on it.
They are tight but not so tight they won't move before the bracket bends or breaks.
I should have tried this. do a lube then vice grip to break the sleeves free
 

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If you do it again,,,,
You put something that just fits over the steel on one side . Large socket works often.
Then something slightly smaller diameter on the other side.
Gently tighten in vice.
The sleeve will push through with no distress to the bracket.
Sometimes a little heat helps.

This type of spacer setup has been in use since the beginning of time and well meaning, unaware have been damaging brackets just as long.
Picture a replacement alt that is, say .065 short.
Drops right in but instead of the sleeve adjusting for length, the bracket bends or cracks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you do it again,,,,
You put something that just fits over the steel on one side . Large socket works often.
Then something slightly smaller diameter on the other side.
Gently tighten in vice.
The sleeve will push through with no distress to the bracket.
Sometimes a little heat helps.

This type of spacer setup has been in use since the beginning of time and well meaning, unaware have been damaging brackets just as long.
Picture a replacement alt that is, say .065 short.
Drops right in but instead of the sleeve adjusting for length, the bracket bends or cracks
yeah that's really good information. I wish I had seen it before I started pounding for hours with a sand hammer. once I'm done with the install I'll create a KB and I think advising lube + vice grip to break the sleeves free would be helpful to future g8 mechanics. I didn't see your post until after I was done pounding the ****er into the bracket. I'd be really curious to see what spraying and vice gripping would have done to those sleeves. These tutorials don't always account for corrosion. Thanks for the responses
 

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...I guess I'm replacing the serpentine belt now too because there's a tiny amount of coolant on the existing belt. Luckily I've got one in my garage...
For what it's worth, a small amount of coolant dripping once or so on the serpentine belt doesn't necessitate its replacement.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
For what it's worth, a small amount of coolant dripping once or so on the serpentine belt doesn't necessitate its replacement.
Ah ok that's interesting, I might replace it anyway just since everything is already out and I happen to have a brand new one in my garage. Also, it might have been leaking coolant before and had nothing to do with the alternator replacement because I looked and it's coming from a couple different areas. I think I just never noticed it before because it's just a drip. I'll have to check the levels but I don't feel like ripping it all up again to do the seals. It's not burning coolant or anything so hopefully it's just on the outside.

I think usually the burning coolant comes from a bad head gasket, if there's coolant leaking from the bottom of the block that won't usually burn, right? I suppose it could get into the oil reservoir theoretically. I need to do an oil change so I guess I'll inspect the oil to see if it's milky. That would be bad
 
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