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The trouble would be the current draw from the pi. It needs at least a couple of amps.

I used a PAC filter from Amazon. It's basically just a big inductor and a couple of caps. I'll see how it actually performs in the final install before recommending it, though.

Ok, big question... How do you get the pi with crankshaft to recognize the touch controller? I used windows to calibrate the controller to the screen, which worked well. It registers touch just fine now and is accurate. However, I get nothing when it's plugged into the pi. I'm running it in usb mouse mode, but also tried generic HID digitizer to no avail. There shouldn't be drivers, and an actual usb mouse works fine on it.

Fun side note #1: I had a manufacturing defect in my overlay. There was a metal filing in between the screen layers at the right edge of the overlay. When everything was assembled, it would short the two lines and make it think the pointer was at the top right constantly. I had to use a utility knife to get in between the layers and push the filing out of position, now it works fine (in Windows that is...)

Fun side note #2: don't use screen wipes to clean the screen before applying an overlay. After the first wipe took off portions of the anti-glare coating, I had to spend about an hour getting the rest off so it would be uniform.
 

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Grease Monkey
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I have a PAC RCA ground loop isolator and it helps, but doesn't kill all the noise. I'm curious to hear if the power filter works any better.
 

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Niemer - so no issues with your pi working with the touchscreen controller? I'm running a pi 3 b+ on stretch.
 

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I wonder if the touch controller not working with the pi has something to do with how linux vs windows registers position coordinates. I've tried every communication option and can't get it working on the pi, but it works perfectly in windows. I'll try calibrating with a Pi 1 and see if it works.

Also, I noticed that the overlay has a lot glare, and it's difficult to see the words on the screen now when it's sunny, mostly with sunglasses on. Anyone else had this issue? I'm considering changing the text to blue in hopes that it'll be more visible. I may also try getting an additional anti glare layer for it, and possibly using optically clear adhesive to glue it on. I'd like to get it functional before that, though, so this incompatibility issue is really cramping my style...
 

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I installed everything today, but broke the touchscreen extension cable by folding it. At only $2.50, I should have ordered extras originally, so I'll have to wait for a couple of weeks to get a replacement. I haven't found anywhere other than adafruit that sells them. It also means that I can't try calibrating with a Pi 1 for the time being.

Niemer - what version of Pi are you running? I just want to make sure that it's not a hardware issue that it wouldn't work.
 

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Grease Monkey
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I only have visibility issues when the sun directly hits the overlay, but that's fairly rare for me. I'm using a 3B, installed Jessie and the calibration software on the Pi, no issues.

You may be able to get the dev of that calibration tool to update it to work with the most recent version of raspbian, worth a shot I guess.
 

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Niemer, can you tell me what version of Crankshaft you're running? I'm running the build from May 18th, and simply cannot get the AR1100 controller to work on it. I even ordered a RBP 3B to replace my B+ since I knew it worked for you, but the same issue is there. It's calibrated and works just fine in Raspbian Jessie, but does absolutely nothing in Crankshaft. I wonder if the AR1100 support might be broken in the version I'm using.


EDIT: I discovered that running in X11 mode would let the touchscreen register dragging while in digitizer mode. In either X11 or EGL, it will register taps as clicks on the touch screen, but won't register the position. I'm not sure how you got it working on yours, but good on you...
 

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Niemer - I think I'm just having conversations with you on numerous forums :p

As I noted on the Crankshaft github page, I got it working after a lot of trial and error, a custom HDMI mode, and playing with the overscan.

I also noticed on XDA that you got torque running with crankshaft. Are you rooted? It looks like that's a requirement (for now) and will most likely be what pushes me to root. I think that'll be the next step (which means I may not be finished pestering you ;-) )
 

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Also, the PAC filter is working extremely well. I don't see any noise whatsoever on the screen, even with the engine running. However, I did use a better ground point than the one on the lighter circuit (there was a ground bolt a few inches away), I rebuilt the aux cables with shielded ones, and I'm using an HDMI converter.
 

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Grease Monkey
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Yeah, we've been going back and forth between here and Github. I am rooted so OBDAA works for me, it's pretty slick without much communication delay. Specifically what HDMI converter did you use? I'm curious.
 

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This is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06X6HBQDH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It says it uses an external power connection, but powers just fine off of the pi's HDMI connection.

I'm going to have to dig into getting torque up and running with it. What bluetooth adapter are you using with it, and do you get a decent PID read rate? My biggest issue in the past was only getting 5 PID/s polling rate, even with a Kiwi 3 adapter.
 

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Grease Monkey
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Odd, that's the same converter I tried, but I powered it, wonder if that was my issue. Oh well, one less box to deal with anyways.

I'm using this adapter. The polling rate seems fine, it lags reality slightly, but for what I'm looking at it doesn't really matter. There is a faster polling rate setting in Torque that does seem to speed things up a bit.
 

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The NTSC/PAL switch was kind of flaky on my converter. I hot glued it in the NTSC position afterward and had no issues, so I wonder if it was a switch problem on your end as well.

I'm still debating rooting to be able to add Torque since rooting will trip the knox counter and disable Samsung Pay. I don't personally use Samsung Pay, but I'd hate to have it disabled if I sell the phone, and I'm guessing that unrooting won't re-enable it. Decisions, decisions...
 

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The NTSC/PAL switch was kind of flaky on my converter. I hot glued it in the NTSC position afterward and had no issues, so I wonder if it was a switch problem on your end as well.

I'm still debating rooting to be able to add Torque since rooting will trip the knox counter and disable Samsung Pay. I don't personally use Samsung Pay, but I'd hate to have it disabled if I sell the phone, and I'm guessing that unrooting won't re-enable it. Decisions, decisions...
You are correct, knox is a hardware fuse, no coming back from it. It breaks the secure folder and health too I believe but there may be work arounds for those.
 

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I hope more people do this, it has made a world of difference for my commute each day and actually made me cancel my plans to sell my car. My two older kids now each have their own playlist of songs in Google Play music that we can access, and we ask google to tell us jokes along the way. Having navigation on the screen with real-time traffic is great as well. I'm using Crankshaft NG in order to drop the microphone gain to 30 so it picks up voice commands properly on gravel with my external mic location, and I built an autoswitcher to switch between Crankshaft and a reverse camera when I shift to reverse. If I can eventually get OBD2AA working properly with torque and the bypass for the 6 tap limit, that'll be icing on the cake.
 

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Grease Monkey
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Yeah, it's pretty great being able to add new car functionality to an older car and it being extremely easy to implement is huge.

OBD2AA **** the bed for me lately. I can't pinpoint exactly when things went south, but it seems like it's an app issue that the Dev is aware of.
 

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None of this sounds easy...but man I want to do it lol!! I have been dreaming of adding the G8 designs kit and a decent head unit with android


I went back to the first couple of posts, it seems like the mimicsG4 and screen overlay might do what I want. I can mirror my phone screen to it and use all of its apps if I understand it correctly. Then I assume just plug in the phone to aux jack as I already do, so that sound goes through the radio. Is that right?
 

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Discussion Starter #78
None of this sounds easy...but man I want to do it lol!! I have been dreaming of adding the G8 designs kit and a decent head unit with android


I went back to the first couple of posts, it seems like the mimicsG4 and screen overlay might do what I want. I can mirror my phone screen to it and use all of its apps if I understand it correctly. Then I assume just plug in the phone to aux jack as I already do, so that sound goes through the radio. Is that right?
Well, if you are already mirroring your phone screen, chances are that will also have audio (either displaylink, direct HDMI out, etc.), so you won't need a secondary AUX audio. That's all assuming you have the VIM modification done.
 

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Well, if you are already mirroring your phone screen, chances are that will also have audio (either displaylink, direct HDMI out, etc.), so you won't need a secondary AUX audio. That's all assuming you have the VIM modification done.



Mine is bone stock atm (and rebuilding the engine) but with the new hands-free law I am planning to do something with the radio. Spotify on my phone through the aux is how I roll now, and it'd be awesome to have the NAV on the screen.
 
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