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Discussion Starter #1
So I had an aluminum insert machined by a fellow remember here. It fits into the upper radiator hose neck ( the one that usually cracks off ). I used a plastic bonder and it held up for 5 months. Yesterday it failed. The insert slipped out and left me stranded. The bonder turned into a rubber substance after being exposed to such high temps. The tolerance is so fine that it literally fits in the plastic neck like a glove.

Any ideas for a better way to bond that insert sleeve into the neck and not have it back out?
 

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JB Weld??

MercedesSource has been selling a kit for years and they seem to use a similar product to JB weld . Looks to be Permatex 84109

 

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Can you post some info on the insert you got? Someone making those? Pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I had an aluminum insert machined by a fellow remember here. It fits into the upper radiator hose neck ( the one that usually cracks off ). I used a plastic bonder and it held up for 5 months. Yesterday it failed. The insert slipped out and left me stranded. The bonder turned into a rubber substance after being exposed to such high temps. The tolerance is so fine that it literally fits in the plastic neck like a glove.

Any ideas for a better way to bond that insert sleeve into the neck and not have it back out?
Ok, guys.. I decided to have one of the members who made the sleeve insert for me (Son of Thor) actually tap in some flush set screws. These would be going through the plastic and into the insert sleeve. This way it will not back out and no need to use any bonding agent that might fail.
 

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Will the hose cover the screws? Don't want no leaks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will the hose cover the screws? Don't want no leaks!
Yes. the screws are going to be flush and will not stick out on either end between the plastic housing of the radiator and the aluminum insert sleeve. This is the most permanent fix that I could come up with. I just don't trust any sort of glue anymore.
 

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The one I did and we talked about before , I roughed up the plastic and the insert with 40 grit and smeared JB weld on.
Gives the epoxy something to "key" on
It was years and years ago, think that same rad is in the truck.

There are some exotic bonding compounds ( I used for bonding brake pedal boxe to carbon tub) but a can costs more than your rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Had the set screws inserted today. One on top front of the rad neck, and one on each side. Used 1/4 inch #10 - 24 set screws. We grinded screws to a point and inserted them into the plastic neck that we tapped with threads and into the aluminum sleeve insert that we recessed with 3 shallow dimples. Had to grind down the screw length a little bit.
We shall see..... No bonding agent used. The two worm clamps will also keep pressure on the areas of the set screws to help them stay in place. Thanks so much Son Of Thor. !
 

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I agree that the tech for bonding agents for plastics etc.... that IMHO would make it a better choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I agree that the tech for bonding agents for plastics etc.... that IMHO would make it a better choice.
I previously used JB weld plastic epoxy. It turned into rubber jelly - heat and radiator chemicals.
 

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Interesting, I have used it before inside engines, including corroded magnesium intake water passages 🤔
End result, you have it solved, 👍🏻👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Interesting, I have used it before inside engines, including corroded magnesium intake water passages 🤔
End result, you have it solved, 👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe it's just different bonding agents are better than others which I would expect, and I use a bad one. JB Weld plastic. 2 part epoxy.
 

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Nope current owner 19 95 LS7 dry sumped 6 speed T56 Caprice Wagon.


I just used the old original mix it up, come back tomorrow JB Weld
 

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Your using the wrong version of J B Weld. You want the marine version 8272. Fully cured in 24 hours, it can handle 550 deg F and chemicals and oil.
 
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