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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Very quickly--my bonafides: Pro-musician and audio professional--yes I make 100% of my living doing these two. Part of one of my degrees is live and studio sound reinforcement. I've also recorded/mixed & mastered numerous projects in my own home studio. I can't even begin to remember how many car stereos I've improved since my first car.

Many have stated how disappointed they are with the supposed hi-end, 11-speaker Blaupunkt unit. There are four simple things you can do to vastly improve the fidelity of the OE head unit and speakers while spending about $40. This works best for those of us who are on a budget and don't really care if the rear seat occupants have perfect sound yet. A quick search for the DIY for all the things I mention, a very small investment and a bit of your time will be all that is required.

1) Bias Bass-Boost Mod: turn it all the way up.

2) Disconnect the center channel on the dash. (it ruins stereo imaging, is way too loud and robs power from the tweets plus it is not necessary for OnStar--which plays thru the front door speakers too.)

3) Buy a pair of decent quality Mid-Bass 6.5" 4ohm speakers for the front doors. 4ohm is important because it kills two birds with one stone, not only requiring you to fade your signal to the front to restore symmetry from front to rear, but also sending more power to the tweets on the dash. I bought these: Lanzar VB64 with the following specs. Suggested retail for these is $40 per pair. Also, this model, I put in because I had them laying around. They are too deep and impede window motion. Make sure you find ones that are considered "slim."
Standard 6.5'' Size Fits OEM Cut-Outs
Special Mica-Poly Composite Cone
Non-Fatiguing Butyl Rubber Surround
High Temperature Voice Coil
High Density Barium Ferrite Magnet
Rubber Magnet Cover
120 Watts RMS Power
240 Watts Peak Power
Frequency Response:55Hz-6kHz
Impedance:4 Ohms

4) Set your Audio EQ to off and then dial into the head unit to manually set the EQ to the following settings:
Bass +1
Treble +2 or +3 (whichever you like best based on your top-end hearing loss)
Fader to the front +3

Enjoy!
PS: this will make it sound like you are standing in the middle of the band to whom you are listening, either onstage or in the studio.
 

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And deaden the door skins with something....it improves midbass clarity tremendously, as well as vocals.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Apologies, Front doors!

Also, the ones i installed, I put in because I had them laying around. They are too deep and impede window motion. Make sure you find ones that are considered "slim."
 

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Where do these new speakers go, front doors or rear?
Based on his write-up I'm assuming front. Reason I say that is you're replacing a 2 ohm speaker with a 4 ohm. So you have to fade the sound towards the front to overcome the extra impedance and reproduce the same (or close to the same) amount of volume.
 

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Awesome writeup - thanks!

Nice to get some advice from a true musician!
 

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Thanks. I forgot most of what I used to know about ohms and other stereo stuff so I'm pretty ignorant with some of the stereo discussion around here.
If I'm replacing all the speakers, should I be going with 2ohm all the way around or can someone tell me what ohms for what speakers?
Good note about the slim speakers for the door application.
 

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I'd also like to throw my hat in the ring, if it helps out. I'm no musician, but I can appreciate a great sounding sound stage.

I replaced all 4 door speakers with DB651s's that were on sale from amazon dot com. I then took out the rear deck subs and replaced with Fosgate Punch P2 8 ohm speakers and bridged them, along with the adjustable crossover on my aftermarket Fosgate P400-4 amp and tweaked the remote turn-on from the factory rear subs amp. If you're thinking of running an aftermarket amp, you probably will need to keep the factory amp in the circuit, because if it gets unplugged, you cannot get a signal from the head unit to those channels. Some line level converters work great to convert the signal to the aftermarket amp.

While I was installing the rear 8" subs, I also took the liberty of dynamatting the entire top (under rear decklid carpet) and bottom (laying on your back in the trunk, looking up) of the rear deck as there are many wires (onstar, XM, 3rd brake, etc) that will rattle back there if you start pounding with aftermarket speakers.

I chose not to remove or "resist" the center front speaker, and I'm very happy with the results. I have the EQ off, balance at 50/50, base and treble at +-0, and the DB651s's handle the highs great and the punch p2's handle the lows quite well also.

Very happy with how my system turned out. I've put in aftermarket boxes and stereos into all of my cars for quite some time, and although the G8 setup took a lot of trial and error, I'm very impressed with how it turned out. Now I'm waiting for my rear-view windshield-mounted mirror to fall off. :wink2:

Just thought I'd share, for those who may be looking to take it to the next level. Sure it costs a bit to upgrade multiple components like I did, but the payoff is so much sweetness. It's all good!

And to the OP, sorry to crap on your thread. Sounds like you made the best that you could with what you had laying around and the "free mods" that you described. Just thought I'd offer an alternate setup for others to consider.

--zep
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Zep,
Thanks for offering a great next-level up alternative.
Yes, the whole focus of my thread here is to help folks who want it to sound better but either don't want to spend that kind of $ because of other priorities for their G8 or who just can't afford to do so. :-D

Brad,
Yes, if you are keeping the headunit and are just looking for better quality sound, 2ohm replacements in the doors are a great start and the Polk db651s's are a great choice. Here are some other choices which will be a big step up. You can definitely find them on ebay for way less $ too. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewcat.php?category_id=47&f_31=97

Cheers!
 

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I'll chime in and post my setup, thoughts, etc.

I replaced the front door speakers with the Infinity 6022i's (online for $45), while I was there I added some sound deadening material to the outside panels. I keep the tweeter "brightness" button (on the speaker) flat rather than the +3db setting (tooooo bright).

Rear door speakers are STOCK, since I use them for rear fill only, they do NOT need to be loud or have much mid-bass. I feed the 4 doors power from a Jensen Power760 (don't laugh, it's a sweet amp for $50.00) 4 channel that is crossed over at 125hz, running 75w RMS @2ohms, using a custom made8 wire "speaker harness" that ties into the head unit, runs back to the trunk to a line output converter feeing the RCA inputs, then back to the stock speaker wiring at the dash to avoid having to rewire all the doors (PITA).

Center channel speaker is replaced using the 16 ohm Vifa noted in other threads. The stocker is FAR too bright/loud and distorts easily, adding harshness to vocals and overriding the other mids.

I completely removed the stock 8" paper subs to allow sound from my trunk subwoofer to vent into the cabin. The sub is a 12" MTX ($100.00 online) dual 4 ohm voice coil rated to handle 400w, that is wired in parallel to obtain a 2 ohm load. It resides in a 1.44 cubic foot enclosure that has all the interior walls lined with carpet "jute" padding, and 1.25 pounds of generic polyfill ($3 at walmart) for stuffing to fool the speaker a little for a deeper low end. It resides on the front left of the trunk, firing backwards. I added sound deadening material ALL OVER the interior of the trunk and deck lid. Powering the sub is a Crunch GPV2000.1 mono sub amp, which delivers a solid 500w at 2 ohms and has a remote sub control that is QUITE handy since I listen to such a wide variety of music types. Subsonic filter is set to 30 hz, and high pass to 100 hz. NO DECIBEL BOOST.

I tuned for sound quality and LOVE it, by careful tuning of gains and crossover points. The doors output surprising mid-bass and help keep the image up front, and the mild center channel anchors the vocal image while being almost transparent to the sound stage. I listen mostly to high quality various forms of female vocal psytrance and similar stuff, or as a general term "electronica", with some stuff like Mayan Factor, Floyd, SRV, etc., tossed in here and there. You can really groove to some good bass guitar and kickdrum stuff because the sub is articulate and "tight" and extends well into the upper bass ranges. It handles rap quite well without being boomy (again, no db boost) and really good source material will show how good the stock head unit can be, provided you do not run the factory EQ settings or auto level controls, and use manual bass and treble adjustments. Fader is at +3 to front, centered on balance, treble at +0 and bass at +1 or +2 depending on the music type. My normal "SQ" volume is ~28-30 and "party volume" level is 30-37, again dependent on the source material. You CAN tell the difference between a high quality audio cd and an mp3 disc.

I am a proponent of sealed subs since they have very low latency and are typically fairly flat response across the bandpass of the system. They also handle abuse fairly well since the sealed box controls cone motion quite well when you get naughty on the volume knob. They just need a stout amp behind them with a little headroom so you don't have to run the amp wide open all the time at moderately high volumes, which adds to sound quality because you have the power to handle those transients that grab alot of power very quickly.

I did not spend much at all, less than $500.00, and am totally impressed with the sound quality of my rig, showing that with proper setup, average components can sound GREAT.
 

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Another country heard from. I too am no expert, but like many enjoy good sound. I replaced both front and rear door with 6.5" Infinity Kappas, center channel with a Infinity reference 3.5" with a 6 ohm in series. Toned down the high end on the front doors with the -3dB button, as I still have the factory tweeters. Turned up the subs, but as yet they are stock, and most importantly did away with the preset equailzer settings. Also added dampener to doors, trunk lid & floor, behind and below the rear seats, and the rear package tray area. Certianly not the best out there, but not bad, and I'm happy.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
TheRapture & JustAl,

Thanks much for your solutions for those who want the next step up from cheap & easy.

:)
 

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slideadams, you don't find that with NO center at all, the image gets pulled to the left without balance bias at +1 or +2 to the right?

The stock setup is alot better than some would think, I agree on that, if it is tuned properly with the stock sub amp being turned up and doors faded to the front a bit.
 

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3) Buy a pair of decent quality Mid-Bass 6.5" 4ohm speakers for the front doors

4) Set your Audio EQ to off and then dial into the head unit to manually set the EQ to the following settings:
Bass +1
Treble +2 or +3 (whichever you like best based on your top-end hearing loss)
Fader to the front +3

Enjoy!
PS: this will make it sound like you are standing in the middle of the band to whom you are listening, either onstage or in the studio.
Buck for buck, replacing the front door speakers are indeed a very nice upgrade!

That is funny, after all the stuff I did, that is pretty much dead on where my settings are (except treble, the Infinity tweets are plenty bright). With the stock setup in the doors I was at +2 on treble.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
slideadams, you don't find that with NO center at all, the image gets pulled to the left without balance bias at +1 or +2 to the right?
You'd think that it might lean to the left but I think the extra push to those dash tweets and the disabled center are the very reason I have no trouble with the stereo imaging.

I'm not a fan of the type of tweets on the dash, they sound like domes to me (my favorite tweets have always been titanium--i hear live cymbals on a near-daily basis--probably why titanium tweet reproduction just do it for me) so probably the reason I'm having to goose these tweets a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Crazygeek89, you don't need to remove the center, just disconnect it. (you have to take it out to do it but it only takes 2 minutes to do that anyway). Once you do, you'll be even more pleased. ;-D
 

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If you're thinking of running an aftermarket amp, you probably will need to keep the factory amp in the circuit, because if it gets unplugged, you cannot get a signal from the head unit to those channels.
I'm not sure about this. I disconnected the factory amp and tied into the stock sub harness with my aftermarket amp and all the speakers are working fine.
 

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I bought these: Lanzar VB64 with the following specs. Suggested retail for these is $40 per pair. Also, this model, I put in because I had them laying around. They are too deep and impede window motion. Make sure you find ones that are considered "slim."
I'm confusued.. If they are too big and impede the window, why did you put them in??
 
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