[RedG8King]

I want to replace the control arms and all in my front end and wanted some input on whether to use bushings or go with metal rod ends and adjustable arms, etc. Same for the rear in the near future. My car is a 2008 GT with 76000 miles and I do not track it, but I do engage in some spirited driving. I want something dependable that I won't have to replace in the next 7-10 years if I keep the car that long. I do not want to go back with stock replacement stuff and go thru the same thing again, but am unsure if I need to get spherical rod ends either. Looking for some input from those who have been thru this. Thanks.
Nick

 

[PONY MAN]

Would do a thorough suspension check prior to replacing any parts other than those known to wear prematurely/are already problematic.
Many aftermarket pieces tend to have both great durability and longevity. Good luck

https://www.g8board.com/forums/7-suspension-brakes/263769-rear-control-arms.html
https://www.g8board.com/forums/7-suspension-brakes/90746-how-inspect-your-front-suspension.html
https://www.g8board.com/forums/7-suspension-brakes/108562-diy-front-lower-control-arm-replacement.html

 

[J Wikoff]

Mmm, I don't know if you'll be able to work out some adjustable control arms. They are kinda vehicle specific things with specific geometry.

 

[GT Drew]

Stock arms are the worst. The ball in the joint is un-polished, The wear surface is Nylon and no way to lube them. They wear the quickest. The big bushing in the Caster arm is mushy and filled with Dec-cool. Doesn't improve handling. Moog and Dorman also have plastic lined ball joints , but solid rubber bushings. Minor improvement, but not by much.
The Mevotech arms have the bronze bushings in the joint and are greasable. The ball is also polished and coated for rust prevention. Also solid rubber bushings that improve the steering response and handling. Yes you have to take the time to grease them 2 or 3 times a year. Only downside there is.


OR you can upgrade your front suspension components to Camaro control arms knuckles and struts. You will find the saved link at the top of the page.

 

[J Wikoff]

That's good info on the Mevotech arms. I would have leaned towards Moog.

 

[RedG8King]

Suspension help update???

Thanks for the replies. I have already read thru the posts that are referenced and followed the directions on checking the front end play. My LCA and radius rod have loose ball joints so I just figured I would do it all at once and be done with it, especially since I am doing new Konis and Eibach springs all around. Thanks for the info on the Mevotech stuff, I was leaning that way. One big question I have is on the radius rod. I read somewhere about the bushing needing to be clocked with the car on the ground and then tightened up. That sounds almost like an impossible task, but I know to put the car on ramps and bounce the suspension. But, I read somewhere about some bushings that didn't need to be clocked because they were basically free floating. Any info or help on that? Is there a complete arm available with that already set up with that bushing? If not, I would have to buy the Mevotech and press the bushing out and press in the free floating one. Not sure who makes it, though.

 

[yutzybrian]

One big question I have is on the radius rod. I read somewhere about the bushing needing to be clocked with the car on the ground and then tightened up. That sounds almost like an impossible task, but I know to put the car on ramps and bounce the suspension. But, I read somewhere about some bushings that didn't need to be clocked because they were basically free floating.

I always torque suspension components with it "loaded". Take your jack, put it under the the ball joint in the LCA and then pump it up until the car just barely comes off whatever you're using for stands.

 

[RedG8King]

Yes, I understand that I need to load the suspension, lower it down or put a jack under it and jack it up until it takes the weight of the vehicle. But what I wanted to know is if anyone has used those bushings that the metal sleeve spins inside the rubber part, be it urethane or whatever? Do those work well, easier to use, and who sells them? I would appreciate some feedback on this. Thanks.

 

[GT Drew]

It is 100% nessassary to clock the bushings . I tore out a radius rod bushing by tightening then in the air. Bushing separated from the metal sleeve. It cost less to replace the arm myself than taking the arm to a shop and pressing a new bushing in. Install them properly and you will enjoy the results driving. Ramps are the easiest way to keep the suspension loaded and get under

 

[RedG8King]

As I stated before, I knew that the regular bushings needed to be clocked before tightening, but I read somewhere(can't remember or I would not be asking this) about a bushing that did not have to be clocked because the sleeve in the center slipped inside the bushing itself. I have my own press and ordered new Mevotech arms and would consider changing to that bushing even though they are new. I would assume that that bushing would be quieter all around if the sleeve rotates freely inside the bushing. Just would like to have a little feedback from someone who has those bushings and how they performed and held up. Thanks for your input!

Nick

 

[Jeff92se]

Would be nice to be able to press in Energy bushings on the stock arms but the ball joints aren't removable

 

[RedG8King]

Found those non-clocked bushings

Okay, so I have been asking if anyone knew about these bushings that did not have to be clocked but did not remember where I heard about them. I found them. They are from Pedders. They have control arm and radius arm bushings that do not have to be clocked because the metal sleeve rotates inside the bushing. Has anyone used them and how did they perform? Did they wear good and last a long time? I am looking to find something that will last and could possibly keep me from getting the dreaded squeak in the future. Looking for some feedback!

 

[GT Drew]

Any brand of poly bushings with a metal sleeve in the centre does not require clocking. Bushings cost more than a pair of ramps. Steering with the poly bushings becomes very touchy and fast. Try the Mevotechs first. Then if you want more, replace the bushings.