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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made my decision last night on brakes. Went with the Centric Stoptech SportStop drilled and slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Russell Braided lines and ATE SuperBlue Racing Brake Fluid. Had to split the orders between companies to get best deal but got all for less than $700.

With the Stoptech E-coat, I shouldn't have to worry about rust on the rotors like I have heard about on the DBA4000 T3 Club Spec.


Now I'm looking at brake bleeders, anyone have a preference on the Griot's venturi vacuum style or the Motive pressure style bleeders?

Also is the sequence for bleeding passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front?
 

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I like pressure bleeders much better. I'm always worried I'm going to get air in the system with the vac ones. I believe the bleeding order is driver rear, pass rear, driver front, pass front. Cause it Austrian. They didn't Change the location of the abs module. I saw it on here somewhere.
 

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you dont need anything fancy. have one person pump the brakes and you opening the bleeder. get a plastic tube and a water bottle and your set.
 

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I use the motive or a mytevac...either one is fine. Motive has more to set up, good for when you will be swapping fluid on all four calipers. the mytevac is good for when working on one caliper.
 

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you dont need anything fancy. have one person pump the brakes and you opening the bleeder. get a plastic tube and a water bottle and your set.
when you say "pump", do you really mean PUMP ? Or just push on the brake and hold it ?
 

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when you say "pump", do you really mean PUMP ? Or just push on the brake and hold it ?
Suppress the brake pedal 3 or 4 times and hold the pedal on the last push. Have a buddy crack the bleeder and re-tighten BEFORE you release the pedal. Do this until the old fluid is pushed out and repeat for other wheels. As stated above by Hayabusa, the 2 man process is the quickest, cheapest and easiest.
 

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Pump and hold then release bleeder let fluid out and close bleeder. and repeat. this method works the best and is the cheapest
 

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sorry, pumping the brakes, holding the pedal, opening the bleeder and closing it is anatomically difficult when I am the only one in the garage.
 

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Rule #1 keep the rezzy full lol.
Rule #2 start bleeding at the furthest caliper from the rezzy.
Rule #3 end bleeding at the closest caliper to the rezzy.
Rule #4 never ever take the brake pedal past half way to the floor.

I like to gravity bleed first and see how far that takes me and then finish off with the traditional bedal bleed. I rarely "pump" the pedal but more so open bleed screw press pedal down close bleed screw pedal up and repeat routine. Its quicker and doesn't aggitate the fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Motive power bleeder works like a champ. I had to buy a non-GM Motive cap for the reservoir.
JoeMomma: Do you know what part number the cap was? Possibly 1108? Been wondering what kit part number to buy!
 

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Suppress the brake pedal 3 or 4 times and hold the pedal on the last push. Have a buddy crack the bleeder and re-tighten BEFORE you release the pedal. Do this until the old fluid is pushed out and repeat for other wheels. As stated above by Hayabusa, the 2 man process is the quickest, cheapest and easiest.
Yup...
FREE.99 !!!
Simple and really effective !
 

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The only thing I don't like about the pedal method is that you run the risk of ruining the master cylinder by pushing it past its usual travel and into a range it never sees, damaging the seals.

I have a Motive pressure bleeder I prefer to use, but there's always the good old gravity method. It takes longer, but it's foolproof (as long as you don't let the reservoir run dry!!!), free, and requires no helper. Just attach the drain hose to the bleeder, make sure it hangs down to a container sitting on the ground, open the bleeder nice and wide, uncap the reservoir, and let 'er drip for 10-15 minutes per wheel. Just don't get bored or distracted and forget to watch the reservoir and keep it topped up.
 

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For motive, need ford adapter 1107
 

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MFE,

For the gravity method, should the brake pedal be pumped until hard prior to opening the bleeder and and uncapping the reservoir or is that an unnecessary step?

Thanks,

George
 

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Always bleed your brakes starting with the wheel furthest from the reservoir and work your way closer from wheel to wheel. Vacuum bleeders don't work for vehicle's with ABS, all you will do is pull out fluid from the lines and pull a vacuum on the lines. A vacuum bleeder cannot pull enough vacuum to open the valves in the ABS module, it can only be done by pushing the pedal or by using a pressure bleeder. Best way to do it is to use a pressure bleeder, or have an assistant push down on the pedal as your bleeding. If you get air trapped in your ABS module, the only way to get it out would be to take it to the dealer to have them perform a service bleed method on the ABS module, or you drive it and slam on the brakes to get the ABS to activate, then re bleeding the lines again. Most likely will have to do that multiple times if you get air trapped in the module and can turn into a big PITA!
 
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