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My guess is that when installed on the pickup tube, it will expand and conform to fill the gaps. I only ever put it on the pickup tube, never into the pump first.

Is that the old ring?

-J
 

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The service manual shows a one piece seal that's pressed into the timing case cover. The crankshaft spins within that stationary seal lip. Yours looks like that seal decided to separate, become a two part seal, and loose its friction fit in the timing cover and maybe become a spinner with the crankshaft.rotation. I agree with "95wagon" on what he says you need to do, except for the washer talked about. I don't see any reference info about a washer (for the LS2) If your engine was an LS3 however, they do show an added "lipped" steel washer that would be installed on the ballancers snout prior to it being pressed back onto the crankshaft. Must be a spacing thing for the crankshaft design on that engine.
 

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except for the washer talked about. I don't see any reference info about a washer (for the LS2)
And yet his L76 GT has one and the online parts applications currently includes the GT 6.0.
Even if your LS didn't come with one if you are running a non keyed damper it is advisable
Why the service manual does not show it for the L76, don't know. could be a info carryover, could be a transition year.
Fact remains the OPs car had it, and as I said I wouldn't NOT run one.
Especially with the G8's history of damper tossings.
Now than may have been partly due to cowboy flat rate dealer warranty replacements,
the non keyed damper is stupid and the fact GM put in a " magic " washer at some point is testimony to this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The service manual shows a one piece seal that's pressed into the timing case cover. The crankshaft spins within that stationary seal lip. Yours looks like that seal decided to separate, become a two part seal, and loose its friction fit in the timing cover and maybe become a spinner with the crankshaft.rotation. I agree with "95wagon" on what he says you need to do, except for the washer talked about. I don't see any reference info about a washer (for the LS2) If your engine was an LS3 however, they do show an added "lipped" steel washer that would be installed on the ballancers snout prior to it being pressed back onto the crankshaft. Must be a spacing thing for the crankshaft design on that engine.
I鈥檓 just going to put it back together the way that it is I am pretty sure that the dampener is ruined because it looks like the seal cut into it and I鈥檒l just keep my fingers crossed and try to find a dampener in the future in better condition.
 

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Good information given in this thread.
 
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As in if an LS damper is unkeyed or unpinned and has that little recess at the end to retain the diamond washer I WOULD put one in whether the car came with one or not.
They are so thin alignment would not be affected.

DANV508 , please post a picture with something pointing at the worn groove .
 

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Reset. It's a $1500 car. No need to waste money or breath. Use it or not does not matter.
 

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As 95wagon showed in post #6. Buy it
 

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Balancer is definitely junk
It's a $1500 car, put it back on, use some 20w-50 and call it a day. Be real. Your not concerned with a 200k timing chain/gears or tensioner that the spring typically ends up in the oil pan as <50k miles - why worry about this? Maybe a small leak down the road, walmart oil is cheap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
OK so now I got in the new doorman dampener and it looks perfect but my question is that rust washer with the rubber on it does not snap onto the end cone of the new balancer. Also I did not mark the position on how the balancer came off is that a problem?
 

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Position doesn't matter, is that a new friction washer? If not, may be deformed from prior use and should be replaced.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Position doesn't matter, is that a new friction washer? If not, may be deformed from prior use and should be replaced.
Thanks for the fast reply what about putting the new harmonic balancer on I know everyone says not to bang on it with a hammer but if I get it somewhat close to the factory bolt be used to pull it back on.
 

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Thanks for the fast reply what about putting the new harmonic balancer on I know everyone says not to bang on it with a hammer but if I get it somewhat close to the factory bolt be used to pull it back on.
You really should pick up a GM manual for this work as well as using the search feature of this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
You really should pick up a GM manual for this work as well as using the search feature of this forum.
I know I know but I really didn鈥檛 think it was that involves to remove the harmonic balancer and put it back on. Now I need to figure out a way to get it back on the car I don鈥檛 think I鈥檓 gonna have any choice but to tap it lightly like I鈥檝e done with many cars in the past till it starts to catch unless someone can think of something else. I鈥檓 trying to locate a balancer installer tool at maybe AutoZone now but it鈥檚 not looking good. Once again thanks for everyone鈥檚 input
 
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