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Black Widow
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just joined the forum since I'm a v6 G8 owner we have limit to none options on most of our engine performance upgrades and add-ons. So, to make long story short I also joined since I see most of the members here try to look out for each other, so, with that being said I need help. Today my vehicle for the second time has went into Engine Immobilized mode, which I've read that is caused by someone trying to steal your precious, which haven't been the case in either case both times have happened at work once I turn it off it automatically does it, I don't know what sets it off or how to reset it but the first time it went away after disconnecting my battery for a day or half. If someone knows how to do a quick reset or something to change that, I'd appreciate the much need it help...
 

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Registered
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114 Posts
Mine turned on once cuz the battery connection was a bit loose
 

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Premium Member
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4,197 Posts
Are saying that you have an engine immobilizer condition an *can not* crank/start the engine ? Or are you having a theft deterrent alarm condition happening, and you *can* crank/restart the engine ?
 

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Black Widow
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Are saying that you have an engine immobilizer condition an *can not* crank/start the engine ? Or are you having a theft deterrent alarm condition happening, and you *can* crank/restart the engine ?
Its currently giving me the "Engine Immobilized see dealer" and it wonk crank everything else electronic works just wont fire :ibtl::cursin: I recently added the tuned and a roto-fab cai I know the tune might give it some issue I was reading the other threads on a similar problem. I think,
 

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Black Widow
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Mine turned on once cuz the battery connection was a bit loose

How'd you get rid of the annoying ass problem. Tighten it back up, Im guessing. I tried doing the key reset thing but nothing yet. I currently disconnected the battery for a few hours already.
 

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Premium Member
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4,197 Posts
How long ago was the *last correct* ignition on/start/run/ignition off cycle ? Did you do anything unusual between that time (of the last good cycle), and that first failure that your posting here ? Does this same condition happen, using all of your ignition keys ?
 

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Black Widow
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
How long ago was the *last correct* ignition on/start/run/ignition off cycle ? Did you do anything unusual between that time (of the last good cycle), and that first failure that your posting here ? Does this same condition happen, using all of your ignition keys ?
I only have one set since i lost my original its a dup from the dealer with current recall exchange not happy about it.:mad: What would cause the transmitter to stop functioning? That stop working before the dealer did the recall key switch a Roo
 

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351 Posts
Did your car start fine after the tune? What were the issue's you were having before? Did you have the recall key cylinder replaced already? Give us a time line of everything that has happened and that will help us figure out what is going on
 

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OGOC Member
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2,602 Posts
It just may need a relearn.
1-Turn key on for 10 mins
2-turn key off for 5 secs
Repeat this upto 4 times and it should be fine.
 

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Black Widow
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
It just may need a relearn.
1-Turn key on for 10 mins
2-turn key off for 5 secs
Repeat this upto 4 times and it should be fine.
Yeah, I've tried resetting it, I don't have the extra key to do it with both keys but nothing yet. Would that be a reason why it would set off that particular code, we all know how crappy the key fob they gave us. I bought one and on the first drop it broke on me again... And now they (dealership) replaced it with a cheaper looking one.
 

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OGOC Member
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Hmm not to sure then.
 

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edit: Cleaned up Gopher's cross-ref'd response destined for another thread... carry on!
 

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Just got back home. Thank you very much. I've got to pay more attention to what thread I'm monitoring, if trying to help with a problem.
 

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Premium Member
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4,197 Posts
*Maybe* the TDM has lost it's ability to maintain it's stored unique value (the learned key transponder code). You have to believe that one or more fault codes are recorded when this problem happens. Most likely the battery disconnect/reconnect action reset the circuit an probably canceled any codes recorded. It might require you to go to the GM dealer, and have them at least look at the system with their computer an see *if* that 10 min *Immobilizer System Component Programming* needs to be performed.
 

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the problem is the key! Have you recently dropped it?
The spring-loaded mechanism in my blade key was not working so I ordered a Chinese-made $12 case (no electronics) with un-cut blade. It came in last night, I replaced the un-cut key with my factory key, to install the key I had to hit the key numerous times until it finally settle and I could insert the pin that holds it in place.
The car did not start this morning, ENGINE INMOBILIZED, all electronics worked but no crank, lucky I found the ugly-fixed key and that worked (I tried few more times switching keys, the same problem). I guess the actual key (metal) has a built in chip that probably went bad by hitting it.
Will be taking the switch-blade to the dealer (recall) I heard they will cut the key off the remote and will give you two other keys with remote.
 
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