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I remember reading somewhere on another G8 forum a few years ago that clay bars were going to improve dramatically in a few years in the US as there was some kind of "patent" or maybe it was some kind of trade barrier that kept the much better clay bars used in other parts of the world from getting to our shores. That time has come and past and I need to buy some clay. Anyone remember anything about this? Who is selling the best clay, the most clay and who has the best deal on the best most clay?
 

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Idk about the patent but I've recently used Meguiars Clay Kit. If your paint is seriously contaminated I would recommend not using it as it is pretty weak but still does a decent job. It comes with 2 bars, luber, and a MF towel for like $19. 1 bar was enough for the whole car.

If you have more serious contamination, I'd recommend using 3M Clay. I've used it before with very good results. https://www.amazon.com/38070-Perfect--III-Cleaner-Clay/dp/B000TT4FVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1468447449&sr=1-1&keywords=3m+clay+bar It says case quantity: 4. Not sure if you can find just one for cheaper somewhere.
 

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I've read nanoskin is pretty good. I've only used clay, but I'll probably end up buying some and trying it out. It might also damage your paint a little bit from what I've read, nothing a DA polisher couldn't remove.
 

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Yes there used to be a patent on clay but like you said, that ended

I've been detailing on a professional level for 20 years and have seen a few products come out over the years. One looks like a small towel and really didn't work to well on heavy stuff. The good side of the towel was that if you dropped it. You didn't have to throw it out like you would with clay bar. IF YOU GET ANY KIND OF CONTAMINATION ON THE CLAY , YOU CAN DAMGE YOUR PAINT. Otherwise clay bar is very safe. There are different grades of clay. So some clay bars won't work as well as others in certain situations. Like heavy contamination. And i mean really heavy. Like road paint that has dried

Meguires or mothers run about the same price. I grabbed the mothers kit and had the same as the meguires with exception of the towel. It seemed to work just fine but no heavy contamination on mine.

Another tip is to brake a bar in half. If you drop it and have to throw it out ,then you're not throwing out the whole bar. Also. Be sure to flatten the piece into a pancake. Then as you use it, fold the piece over to a clean side as you work each panal. There is a life span on clay. When your bar looks kinda dingy. Trash it and go to a new piece. Really mild soap and water will work as a lubricant. Or you can use spray wax. Better to use the water , especially before buffing. It saves coin and if you are looking to buff the car, you don't want any spray wax on the paint. Forgot to mention. Only straight , back and forth motions. Do not rub in a circle.

Best of luck guys with your rides. !
 

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I'm probably going to get flamed for typing this, but I have been using plain old plumpers putty to clay my vehicle. I found the Meguiar's Clay Bar to be too aggressive and leaves scratches in the paint.
 

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Ive been using Adams Polishes clay. Hands down the best clay Ive ever used.
 

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I found the Meguiar's Clay Bar to be too aggressive and leaves scratches in the paint.
I honestly have never used meguires clay. Their other products are good. So I'm surprised at that. But if thats the case. Then try clay magic or mothers.
 

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Adam's. If you don't like it, 110% money back guarantee.
 

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If you have a random orbit polisher, I would strongly recommend buying a 6" clay pad (search for it on Jeff Bezos' website). At nearly the same price as a sizeable chunk of clay ($20), it saves you time and wear on your arms.

It cut my claying time from 2 hours down to just 45 minutes, and I also used less detail spray than with traditional clay. I still needed a bit of standard clay for tiny edges & corners, but this pad also won't 'collect' contamination like a standard clay bar (you can just wipe off the surface and you're good to go).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone. Great info!
 

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If you have a random orbit polisher, I would strongly recommend buying a 6" clay pad (search for it on Jeff Bezos' website). At nearly the same price as a sizeable chunk of clay ($20), it saves you time and wear on your arms.

It cut my claying time from 2 hours down to just 45 minutes, and I also used less detail spray than with traditional clay. I still needed a bit of standard clay for tiny edges & corners, but this pad also won't 'collect' contamination like a standard clay bar (you can just wipe off the surface and you're good to go).
Only problem is with that setup you can't feel what the clay is doing. I'd rather take the time and do it by hand.
 

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Only problem is with that setup you can't feel what the clay is doing. I'd rather take the time and do it by hand.
Agreed, you can't get a 'feel' for any resistance on the pad vs claying by hand. I'm on the 'ends justify the means' approach, where I just enclose my hand with a plastic sandwich bag and run my fingers across the surface to check for surface debris. Results are just as buttery smooth as the clay. Besides -- I'm gettin' too old for this elbow grease stuff! :smile2:
 

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I use the nanoskin clay mitt. It is so much easier to use than the clay bar and I feel I have more control with the mitt over using a piece of clay. Took me less than 30 minutes to clay my entire car. I hadn't clayed my car for about a year and it felt rough when I started, but after using the nanoskin mitt it felt just as smooth as if you used a clay bar. Definitely worth the money IMO.
 

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Agreed, you can't get a 'feel' for any resistance on the pad vs claying by hand. I'm on the 'ends justify the means' approach, where I just enclose my hand with a plastic sandwich bag and run my fingers across the surface to check for surface debris. Results are just as buttery smooth as the clay. Besides -- I'm gettin' too old for this elbow grease stuff! :smile2:
Ditto on the last part :eek:ldfogey:

I've tried the nanoskin stuff, don't think it's gets as much out as clay. But as long as it passes the Baggie Test and you're happy with it, then yer good to go!
 

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So you guys know. Not all contamination is something that you'll feel.

Rail dust is a perfect example of that. Rail dust or IFO industrial fall out. Some of you have probably seen rail dust. It looks like little orange specs. You normally don't see it unless you have a white or silver paint but all cars get it. What it is is metal pieces stuck into the paint. If not removed ,it will cause the paint to rust over time.

Plenty of ways to get it. It could be brake dust. You might work or live near a airport or train tracks..or some commercial business.

Just be sure you guys are using both feel and visuals to check over the paint.
 

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Please be sure to check out Shine Supply and their two grades of clay they have offered as well as their Shine Mist clay lube. I've used a lot of different clays and sprays over the years to clay and this setup blows everything else I have used out of the water. I thought Adams was the bees knees but then I tried Shine Supply and Adams doesn't even compare. As a test I did a full paint correction on my neighbors 2012 Nissan Altima that had never had a coat of wax on it in it's life (YIKES!) I tested out the soft grade clay to see what it would pull out of the paint and also tried the medium grade. Plus the clay lube was amazing and it was easier than ever to clay. Please check them out!

Shine Mist clay lube

Light Grade clay bar

Medium Grade clay bar
 

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I had better luck with the Mothers kit versus the Meguiars -- the Meguiars just wasnt aggressive enough for me.

With that said, I've been too lazy to clay anything the past several years. I have some new clay in the garage but just keep talking myself out of it, lol
 
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