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Getting ready to hit 60k in my '08 G8 v6. Haven't had a coolant flush yet so I wanted to do one here soon for the spring. Is this something that can be done myself or should I take it in? Thanks!
Coolant flush?
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I'm low on the miles but I'm pushing 5 years and I'm not sure what the previous owner had done to it. I've got a feeling it was nothing. I've heard bad things about running the factory dex-cool longer than 5 years....
Yea, at least the older Dex formula used to turn solid! I also think it was related to having low coolant too, like exposure to air inside the system when pressurized or some crazy mess like that.
I doubt this is a complicated procedure. I can pull up the procedure in the service manual and post once I get home if someone else doesn't chime in by then.
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That would be much appreciated. Thanks wolds!
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I had a 96 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4L. The Dex Cool in my opinion back then sucked. I had overheating issues that didn't go away until i replaced the radiator. The radiator was badly clogged because of the gunk residue from the Dex Cool. I'm thinking at flushing mine at 50K.
You're on time with maintenance for this, so a simple drain and refill is probably sufficient.
From the Helm’s service manual:
Cooling System Draining and Filling (6.0L)
Draining Procedure
1. Disconnect battery ground [I would usually skip this step]
2. Ensure engine is below 50*C before removing the coolant pressure cap.
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
4. Place a drain pan under the drain ****.
5. Loosen the drain **** until coolant flows out of the radiator. (Note: If drain **** is not being replaced do not remove it from the radiator.)
6. Inspect the engine coolant for the following conditions:
a. Discolored appearance – Follow the flush procedure.
b. Normal appearance – Follow the filling procedure.
Filling Procedure
1. Tighten the drain ****.
2. Lower the vehicle.
3. With the engine off, remove the coolant filler cap.
4. Slowly fill the cooling system with a mixture of 50/50 dex cool and water until coolant flows out of air bleed hose spigot. Refit air bleed hose.
a. Note: When pouring coolant take care not to spill any coolant onto the accessory drive belts. If spilling occurs, rinse the belts immediately with water.
[I think the manual has an error here, because it does not include a step for the 6.0L motor to remove the air bleed hose mentioned. However, the 3.6L instructions for filling has an extra step that says: “Remove the engine coolant air bleed hose by releasing retaining hose clamp and remove it from the radiator spigot.”]
b. Note: Lift the radiator top hose underneath the air intake tube, to release air bubble in hose, top up if level drops.
5. Start engine.
6. With engine idling top up coolant until full, wait for several seconds and “top up” if level drops.
7. When full, fit coolant filler cap and switch off engine.
8. Check coolant level in coolant recovery reservoir. Adjust coolant level in the reservoir to the top of graphic mark on the dipstick.
From the Helm’s service manual:
Cooling System Draining and Filling (6.0L)
Draining Procedure
1. Disconnect battery ground [I would usually skip this step]
2. Ensure engine is below 50*C before removing the coolant pressure cap.
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
4. Place a drain pan under the drain ****.
5. Loosen the drain **** until coolant flows out of the radiator. (Note: If drain **** is not being replaced do not remove it from the radiator.)
6. Inspect the engine coolant for the following conditions:
a. Discolored appearance – Follow the flush procedure.
b. Normal appearance – Follow the filling procedure.
Filling Procedure
1. Tighten the drain ****.
2. Lower the vehicle.
3. With the engine off, remove the coolant filler cap.
4. Slowly fill the cooling system with a mixture of 50/50 dex cool and water until coolant flows out of air bleed hose spigot. Refit air bleed hose.
a. Note: When pouring coolant take care not to spill any coolant onto the accessory drive belts. If spilling occurs, rinse the belts immediately with water.
[I think the manual has an error here, because it does not include a step for the 6.0L motor to remove the air bleed hose mentioned. However, the 3.6L instructions for filling has an extra step that says: “Remove the engine coolant air bleed hose by releasing retaining hose clamp and remove it from the radiator spigot.”]
b. Note: Lift the radiator top hose underneath the air intake tube, to release air bubble in hose, top up if level drops.
5. Start engine.
6. With engine idling top up coolant until full, wait for several seconds and “top up” if level drops.
7. When full, fit coolant filler cap and switch off engine.
8. Check coolant level in coolant recovery reservoir. Adjust coolant level in the reservoir to the top of graphic mark on the dipstick.
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Thanks! I've got the 3.6L....so when exactly do I remove the air bleed hose and do I just push it to the side or something? First time doing this so trying to be sure.
Oh, I guess you didn't specify and I didn't ask!
The procedure is almost identical. Remove the air bleed hose after you finish step 3 above, so it's basically the same steps here for V6 and V8.
The only actual difference seems to be that the V6 does not have the note to mess with the upper radiator hose to release any air bubbles, although it probably can't hurt to just do this anyway.
The other difference I think is a typo. After the step to top up with the engine idling, the V6 instructions read as follows:
9. Stop engine, wait several seconds and "top up" if level drops.
10. When full, fit coolant filler cap and switch off engine.
These 2 steps are contradictory. If followed word for word, it tells you to shut the engine off after it was already turned off. For all cars I've owned in the past, the coolant level will be lower while the car is running with the radiator cap removed, so the 2 contradictory instructions don't make much sense because the coolant would spill over when you shut the car off if you don't put the radiator cap on before turning the car off typically. I would just follow the V8 instructions as outlined above and make sure to remove the air bleed hose from the radiator neck after you remove the radiator cap.
The procedure is almost identical. Remove the air bleed hose after you finish step 3 above, so it's basically the same steps here for V6 and V8.
The only actual difference seems to be that the V6 does not have the note to mess with the upper radiator hose to release any air bubbles, although it probably can't hurt to just do this anyway.
The other difference I think is a typo. After the step to top up with the engine idling, the V6 instructions read as follows:
9. Stop engine, wait several seconds and "top up" if level drops.
10. When full, fit coolant filler cap and switch off engine.
These 2 steps are contradictory. If followed word for word, it tells you to shut the engine off after it was already turned off. For all cars I've owned in the past, the coolant level will be lower while the car is running with the radiator cap removed, so the 2 contradictory instructions don't make much sense because the coolant would spill over when you shut the car off if you don't put the radiator cap on before turning the car off typically. I would just follow the V8 instructions as outlined above and make sure to remove the air bleed hose from the radiator neck after you remove the radiator cap.
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I recommend changing the majority of your fluids at regular intervals which depends on a number of variables. Sure you could leave the oil in for 10,000 miles, radiator fluid and spark plugs in for 100,000 miles, but it might cause problems further down the road as inhibitors in the fluid begin to deteriorate. Generally, after 50,000 miles it is time to change the factory spark plugs and radiator fluid, some might beg to differ, but that's okay too. Also, I try to drain and refill the master cylinder and power steering fluid every 25,000 miles. Sure it not the same as disconnecting the lines and removing all of the fluid, but seems like it should help something.:dunno:
If you have access to compressed air, there is a tool that you can use that pulls a vacuum on the entire cooling system, and uses that vacuum to draw in coolant to completely fill the system and avoid any air in the system. We use these on a daily basis at work, and are well worth the investment. Especially if you wrench alot. Pricing depends on where you buy them. Snap On, Matco, Cornwell, MAC tools all sell these. I would assume you could get them elsewhere also.http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=649162&group_ID=681175&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
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Sorry to revive an old thread here, but I think I am having issues with air the system and I have tried bleeding it out a couple of times now.
My levels are for sure okay (reservoir and radiator), and I have done the whole "burp the upper hose" thing too...
Can anyone help clarify which hose is the air bleed hose, when to remove it, and when to reattach it? Does it work like the old school bleeder screw where you would open it while idling and wait until coolant flows out?
Thanks all
My levels are for sure okay (reservoir and radiator), and I have done the whole "burp the upper hose" thing too...
Can anyone help clarify which hose is the air bleed hose, when to remove it, and when to reattach it? Does it work like the old school bleeder screw where you would open it while idling and wait until coolant flows out?
Thanks all
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734 Posts
Hey
Wolds i started a thread called Flat Hose. I could sure use your input. I went to add coolant to my radiator, but noticed it has pink coolant in it. the Dex Cool i have seen is Orange. i am afraid if i add anything and mix it, it will damage the system. Any help is appreciated.
Wolds i started a thread called Flat Hose. I could sure use your input. I went to add coolant to my radiator, but noticed it has pink coolant in it. the Dex Cool i have seen is Orange. i am afraid if i add anything and mix it, it will damage the system. Any help is appreciated.
For those of you filling you cooling system, i would suggest purchasing one of these.
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...-P39625.aspx?gclid=CIOZv6jGrsYCFQgtaQodKWQN3w
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...-P39625.aspx?gclid=CIOZv6jGrsYCFQgtaQodKWQN3w
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Change the fluid at 5 years and done with it.My dexcool was still good at less than 40,000 miles but the 5 years was up.
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In the short run: If it doesn't need much coolant, then I'd add plain water. Before winter, check the freeze point after the water has had a chance to mix with the existing coolant. You'll need the correct antifreeze tester for whatever type of antifreeze it is, which will be a problem, see below.
One kind of pink antifreeze is used in certain imported cars (especially VW/Audi) and another kind of pink is used in heavy trucks. And of course there's the pink antifreeze used in the plumbing systems of recreational vehicles (RV). God only knows which one of those is in your car, and why, and whether or not it will harm your car.
The long-term fix is to get your cooling system flushed and the weird pink antifreeze replaced with normal Dexcool. That's what I would do as soon as possible.
Good explanation of the different colors and types of antifreeze at:
http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2006/12/01/hmn_feature20.html
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