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Yesterday while driving the radio went off and everything went blank on the display unit. No lights nor radio display nor air conditioner and heater control operation... nothing. Restarting the car nor disconnecting the battery helped. Checked all fuses and they are working properly. Could it possible be the fuse located on the positive battery cable although it seems other things would be malfunctioning as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
 

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Don't know the exact answer, but from your description, I would suspect the head unit itself may have failed.
 

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UPDATE: Refused to go to a stealership and pay a diagnostic troubleshooting fee so decided to give it a whirl and see what became of it. Didn't initially suspect the head-unit since both the top (radio display) and bottom (climate control) functions were inoperative. The display and climate controls have separate plug-ins and in my small mind they should work independently of one another... perhaps it was a luck guess. At any rate, checked the relays and fuses everything tested good. Just for kicks, pulled the head-unit, cleaned the plug-ins with contact cleaner and applied a little dielectric grease to both. Re-installed the head-unit. Fired it up and no dice. Pulled the head-unit again and probed the connectors for current and nothing. Pulled the side panel and saw the connector for the head-unit. Wiggled the wiring harness just a skoosh and heard the compact disc player engage. Put the head-unit back on and nearly crapped my pants when the radio came on full blast it nearly startled the breakfast excrement out of me.
 

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UPDATE: Decided to clean both the wiring harness and pins with CRC contact cleaner and apply a light layer of dielectric grease to the plug-in side of the harness. Reconnected the positive battery cable and nothing. Wiggled the wiring harness and the head-unit lit up like a brand new billboard in Times Square. Disconnected the positive battery cable. Removed the wiring harness, noticed a small torx screw in between the pins and wondered if it was loose. Sure enough it was so re-tightened the torx screw a little past snug. Reinstalled the wiring harness. Reconnected the wiring harness and so far, so good. Removed the glove compartment for easier access to the wiring harness, but it's not absolutely necessary. Also, the entire wiring harness is held in place by a bottom clip that swings out. Will try to post pictures of everything later.
 

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Pictures
 

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UPDATE: Unfortunately, both the celebratory victory lap and photo session were short lived. Fame, prestige, and honor are all now gone and it's now back to "normal" life... :|. At any rate, am relatively sure one or more of the connector pins that power the unit has a broken solder joint since after this initially happened, was able to wiggle the wiring harness to the radio and it would power up momentarily. Does anyone have a radio repair service they do or do not recommend? The 2009 and 2009.5 radios have different parts number and have read on here they are not interchangeable. However, if both the face-plate and head-unit were changed, would the non mixing of part numbers still apply? Ideally, would like to have the radio repaired in lieu of potentially having to track one down with an identical part number, have it re-programmed ($150) and whose to say the same thing won't happen again further down the road? Thanks
 

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UPDATE: Found a shop with good Google reviews albeit subjective and should know if it's repairable or not within one to two business days. Fingers crossed.
 

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Good luck!
 

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Good luck!
Thanks

I have a few stock radios laying around if you need one. Forum discount
Please send a PM with details.

UPDATE: Going to the car audio repair place was a complete waste of time. 1. Had trouble locating the business establishment. 2. Only had one available parking space, but quite of few of them were occupied by Toyota Tacoma's. 3. They were unable to determine what's wrong with the head-unit and said they couldn't get it to power on either... go figure Sherlock 4. Still charged the customary diagnostic fee and said "it could be" the main control board. 5. Gave a printout of a company listing with a used unit for double to three times the going prices of comparable units on flea bay. 6. Still disgruntled about the diagnostic fee since they were unable to determine what is going on and can't explain why the unit worked flawlessly numerous times after wiggling the wiring harness a skoosh. Numerous as in at least ten times before the wigging just didn't cut the mustard. sigh. Will attempt to dissemble the unit tonight or tomorrow to see if theory (bad /broken solder joint) holds water since there's nothing else to lose.
 

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Is your face tight? Meaning is the face of the unit securely pushed into the silver box? This is a common problem with the IQ's in the early caprices. Think there is just one connector from the face that falls in to a connector receptacle on the silver box. Give a puush on the face to see if it seats any.
 

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Is your face tight? Meaning is the face of the unit securely pushed into the silver box? This is a common problem with the IQ's in the early caprices. Think there is just one connector from the face that falls in to a connector receptacle on the silver box. Give a puush on the face to see if it seats any.
Yes. Am sure it is not the face-plate because the wiring harness is getting current on three or four pins, but and none of the pins where the face-plate attaches to the head-unit are getting a signal.
 

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UPDATE: According to a car/part guy's research, part numbers are not interchangeable and must match the one on the original head-unit. Unfortunately, am unsure if the same premise applies to face-plate swapping. At any rate, was able to locate the whole kit-n-a-caboodle on fleabay for the low, low price of under $125. Installed the head-unit and face-plate assembly yesterday and immediately it came to life so called the local programmer to link it to the vehicle. By the way, the heating and air conditioner portion of the unit is not vehicle identification number locked and works flawlessly. Long story shorter, he first tried using a General Motors Tech II, but was unable to communicate with the head-unit due to the non-corresponding vehicle identification numbers. Next, he tried using another programming device, but apparently the website and/or WiFi connection were running slow or being updated as it kept timing out. At any rate, am going to call the dealership tomorrow to see if they (1) will program the head-unit and (2) how much would it cost? At this point, will find it very difficult to justify spending more to program the head-unit than the cost of the unit itself... so the beat goes on.
 

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UPDATE: According to a car/part guy's research, part numbers are not interchangeable and must match the one on the original head-unit. Unfortunately, am unsure if the same premise applies to face-plate swapping. At any rate, was able to locate the whole kit-n-a-caboodle on fleabay for the low, low price of under $125. Installed the head-unit and face-plate assembly yesterday and immediately it came to life so called the local programmer to link it to the vehicle. By the way, the heating and air conditioner portion of the unit is not vehicle identification number locked and works flawlessly. Long story shorter, he first tried using a General Motors Tech II, but was unable to communicate with the head-unit due to the non-corresponding vehicle identification numbers. Next, he tried using another programming device, but apparently the website and/or WiFi connection were running slow or being updated as it kept timing out. At any rate, am going to call the dealership tomorrow to see if they (1) will program the head-unit and (2) how much would it cost? At this point, will find it very difficult to justify spending more to program the head-unit than the cost of the unit itself... so the beat goes on.
If you buy the tools on Amazon and follow the programming guide, you can do it yourself and save some serious money.
 

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If you buy the tools on Amazon and follow the programming guide, you can do it yourself and save some serious money.
More information would be greatly appreciated regarding said tools on Amazon and programming guide. If necessary, send a private message. THANKS
 

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UPDATE: Called the dealership and they are going to charge $95 or one full hour's labor rate to program the head-unit which is neither bad nor good. Service writer said it takes between 1 to 1.5 hours bringing the total cost of this project to roughly $250. Upon reading the information provided above by GXP25, this might very well be the most viable option considering the lemonade stand did a little better than expected this past weekend.
 

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UPDATE: Radio was programmed at the local dealership and can "x" this one off the to-do list.
 

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Prior to having the head-unit reprogrammed, there was an intermittent P0391 code and read an engine control module flash might cure the condition. Currently, the code is neither current nor pending and assume reprogramming the head-unit had nothing to do with it or did it? Since then, the car has been started more than enough times to trigger the P0391 code and with any good fortune it won't return before the end of next month.
 
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