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Hey aabry - like he said, don't try this without some type of DA buffer. Make sure you sand between each coat of paint - that's the biggest addition I'd make. 1500 grit and 2000 grit should be good as far as sanding is concerned. I also sanded between coats of clear (3 coats of clear should be plenty). Funny thing about my situation - I spent a good 10 hours working on it a couple weekends ago. Two days after I finished, some 18 year old who was texting and driving rear ended me, so insurance ended up paying for a professional job anyway. They swapped out my GT diffuser for a GXP diffuser in the meantime, so I'm pleased.
 

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BigCasnio
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New project.

Well I think I just found out what my next project will be. I had to remove the GXP bumper and reinstall the GT bumper so the GXP could get repainted due to the paint peeling off. I took it over to the body shop Tuesday, the guy looked at it and said sure enough that it was peeling, because the procedure that the paint supplier sent him doesn't call for primer with the new paint!...so its just painted the base coat and clear coated is all. Anyway, he said a rep would come out and look at it and make sure it wasn't chipped from rocks or anything. Well today the body guy told me that the rep said they wouldn't stand behind the paint because the bumper was curbed! WTF!!! The chips are ALL OVER the bumper. Not just on the bottom, but ALL OVER. I am royally bleeped! The shop never told me that I would have to pay for the repairs, but I told them that I didn't think I should have to pay for them. It is clearly junk paint. Well, so I got to thinking, I might just use this tutorial to paint it myself. I haven't decided yet. The guy told me they have two big jobs they have to get done first, so I can see where this is going already. Anyone else have problems with their bumper swaps like this??
 

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BigCasnio
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Hey guys. So I decided to tackle this project on my rear bumper, where my paint was bunched and there are a few scrapes. So I sanded, painted, everything looks smooth and its ready for clear coat. Then I failed miserably. I don't know what I am doing wrong, but I tried this three different times.
It's cold here in Illinois, but about 45 this evening. Regardless, I have an insulated garage with a little infrared heater when I need it. I decided to use it to help the drying process. I masked, sprayed the clear, followed the directions, and I let it dry for 20 minutes to half hour...the first time. Then I had some 3000 grit paper. Now I know it says 2000 but I had some 3000 handy and I figured it should be safer IMO. So I sanded, it was smooth to the touch, so I buffed. I used 3m rubbing compound which really does a nice job on the regular finish of the car. Makes it smooth and takes out the fine swirls and scratches...well most of them.
As I am buffing with my Random orbital buffer (let me know if this is what not to use) and the clear coat just comes right off, and I wipe it off and I'm back to the sanded areas. Now I can't afford a $300 kit like it says to use, I've just an orbital which I use on all my detail jobs for waxing, scratches, everything. I don't see why this wouldn't work. And I always use clean pads for every application.
So I repeated this each time and the only thing I did different was Wait for the clear to dry about a half hour each time. So, there I am. I went ahead and used 3m on the entire car, then waxed...The car looks brand new (no joke), then there's the sore thumb on the corner of the rear bumper. I guess I'm lucky that it is right on the corner, so it doesn't jump out at you, but I'm pretty stumped that this didn't work.
I hold no disappointment or hard feelings towards the directions of this project. I know it can be done and I am going to keep trying. I was just looking for some input on why the clear wouldn't stick.
 

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Hey guys. So I decided to tackle this project on my rear bumper, where my paint was bunched and there are a few scrapes. So I sanded, painted, everything looks smooth and its ready for clear coat. Then I failed miserably. I don't know what I am doing wrong, but I tried this three different times.
It's cold here in Illinois, but about 45 this evening. Regardless, I have an insulated garage with a little infrared heater when I need it. I decided to use it to help the drying process. I masked, sprayed the clear, followed the directions, and I let it dry for 20 minutes to half hour...the first time. Then I had some 3000 grit paper. Now I know it says 2000 but I had some 3000 handy and I figured it should be safer IMO. So I sanded, it was smooth to the touch, so I buffed. I used 3m rubbing compound which really does a nice job on the regular finish of the car. Makes it smooth and takes out the fine swirls and scratches...well most of them.
As I am buffing with my Random orbital buffer (let me know if this is what not to use) and the clear coat just comes right off, and I wipe it off and I'm back to the sanded areas. Now I can't afford a $300 kit like it says to use, I've just an orbital which I use on all my detail jobs for waxing, scratches, everything. I don't see why this wouldn't work. And I always use clean pads for every application.
So I repeated this each time and the only thing I did different was Wait for the clear to dry about a half hour each time. So, there I am. I went ahead and used 3m on the entire car, then waxed...The car looks brand new (no joke), then there's the sore thumb on the corner of the rear bumper. I guess I'm lucky that it is right on the corner, so it doesn't jump out at you, but I'm pretty stumped that this didn't work.
I hold no disappointment or hard feelings towards the directions of this project. I know it can be done and I am going to keep trying. I was just looking for some input on why the clear wouldn't stick.
Great point here, and a good question; would an Orbital work just as well as the PC kit? I plan on tackling this job this weeked.
 

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Saving Gas and Goin' Slow
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lol speaking of spray cans.. lol i painted my whole old bike (03 R6) with rustoleum truck bed liner.

good write-up! my car needs it done!

bike: was yammi blue, then prepped it and spray canned it.





where do you all get the touch up paint? dealer i assume?
 

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thwas a great job on the painting. keep it looking good. i need to do some touch ups on my car sometime soon. i'll definately be refering bac to this!
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Been awhile since I posted in this original thread I started. But for aabry who was removing the clear coat on his finish...it is likely a combination of the orbital your using and/or application of clear coat. An orbital buffer/polisher WILL remove clear coat regardless. The PC kit I used is VERY mild on clear coat removal. This is why it takes so long to remove clear coat scratches vs a traditional buffer which can easily damage paint if not used carefully.

I do believe if you had used the PC kit as I had suggested, you probably would have seen better results. Can't promise since the application of your clear coat may have been different than what I did (I did not sand in between coats even though technically you should). You should also never apply paint in weather cooler than 60 degrees or during/after rain. I did break the rain rule. It wasn't cold however.

In either case, I've had to fix other people's jobs who used a cheap buffer with cheap pads (or decent buffer/pads and poor procedure). I would recommend anyone who plans to attempt what I did using my instructions, use the PC kit and Adam's pads. They are worth every penny. TRUST ME. And watch the Junkman videos on how to use it properly. He knows his stuff. I chose 2000 grit over 3000 grit based on a video he did where he sanded the car with 3000 grit and saw little change. I'm sticking to the 1500-2000 personally. 2000 wasn't doing much visible damage on the clear coat.

I'll likely be going back at my hood this summer since it is a bit roughed up since my last touch up (OP)...I did however get the new GXP front fascia so that is looking good and shouldn't need anything more than a good buff to remove clear coat scratches.

If you have any questions, PM me. I'll do my best to answer in a responsible amount of time.
 

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majesticix, I am going to applying some your techniques here pretty soon to my front bumper. My situation comes from license plate bracket holes that I drilled out like a babarian and left huge nasty holes in the bumper. I have since used Jackalopes magnum steel method of filling and painting. I substituted magnum steel for Quick Steel because thats what they had at Advanced Auto. Didn't turn out as smooth as I would have liked. So now I am going to use some of your methods hear to smooth and repaint.

**My question here is what you are painting? To me it would seem that you painted every surface that you sanded. But are you only filling the chip with paint or painting the entire sanded area? And then just applying clear coat and buffing the rest?**

Hopefully you understand what I'm asking. For my project I will be doing a bit more sanding to smooth out the Quick Steel.
 

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Great write up...Thank You!!! Ive had my GXP for 2 months now and there have been a few chips really bothering me...so I bought the Adams kit, paint, etc....ive started today...clay bared the whole car...washed it again...and started touching up some spots on the back that will give practice before tackling the hood....the clear says you should wait 48 hours before using compound on it....did you wait this long? I have a heat gun I can use as well....I can wait if necessary...but really want to see how it looks so I can start touching up the rest of the car :)
 

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Good info. Thanks.
 

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I am a automotive painter. The op has a very nice write up here. Follow his steps and u should at least have a lot cheaper way to fix your chips vs a paint job at your local bodyshop.
 

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I've recently noticed a few more extra paint chips in my own car that have joined some of the other small imperfections that existed when I got it. I might have to give this a try. I have one question though; how is longevity? For those of you who have done this a while back, is it still holding up good?
 

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Very nice work. I have an actual crack in my paint on my drivers side rear wheel well that I am going to try to make look better and this article will definitely help out. I was going to try using the clear in the pen but now I am glad I did not pick that up yet. What brand of clear did you use? I used the Dupont clear in a can before and it was crap.
I'll revive an old thread to make a comment on this...


I have had my G8 since new in 2009 and after 8 years and 175,000 km, I am still VERY happy with it. It's long ago paid for and I still enjoy driving it and coming out to see it still looking pretty in the driveway.


Canadian winters are not nice to cars and because of this (and also perhaps the other paint problems many of us have had), I have pretty decent sized CHUNKS of paint cracked off and gone in both rear wheel wells. It is almost like the paint wraps around only so far behind the wheel well edge and then with enough wear and tear from the weather or car washing or snow brushes, it finally flakes away.


It hurts seeing it like this and I'd like to do something about it, if not for the cosmetic reasons, but because the bare metal that's now exposed will only continue to rust.


Is the OP's (great, btw) write-up and procedure going to help me with my paint chips? These are bigger than the hood chips, likely the size of a quarter or maybe bigger (a Loonie or Toonie perhaps). I have one of these chunks of paint missing on each rear wheel well.


I haven't really been one to post much here. Chalk that up to having very few problems with the car. It's almost time to get the 36 year old car out of storage though. That's where my car fixing time usually goes, lol. Thanks!
 

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I didn't read this whole thread so If this was covered then please forgive me.

I read the o.p.s' initial post and that's it but didn't notice any mention of making sure you take a paint depth reading before doing any wet sanding or buffing. You can remove too much paint and can cause the paint system to fail. Aka fade and not protect the metal anymore.
 

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Mine's got a bunch of chips all over the front. I definitely don't have the cahones or skill to try what the OP did tho... LOL. I did clearcoat my Gibson and it turned out fine but... wheww.. even that was nerve racking and it's worth 500 not several thousand...

Does anyone know if it's possible to just use some type of paint touchup instead of trying to clearcoat? IF so, what are some recommended brands for paint touch ups? I have done a lot of painting so I can get my hands pretty steady and very precise but it's the sanding/clearcoat spraying that worries me.

Is there a way to just dab paint into the chip areas then perhaps use a clear dabber and just be very precise with the initial applications?
 
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