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Update:

I'm trying to take the timing cover off, but those two bolts on the bottom where the oil pan is are rounded off. What's the best way to work them out? My 10mm won't bite at all.

Not getting the heads miloed at this point. I may get everything RC ported at some time, but it wasn't in the budget this time around
The oil pan bolts that go through the timing cover that are up and down (respective to the motor)? Or the bottom two on the front of the cover?

The oil pan bolts will be a pain to get off if they're rounded, because of everything in the way. Maybe try biting down on them with some needle nose vice grips? Those bolts are kinda a pain to get out anyway, I used a ratcheting box-end wrench to take them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The oil pan bolts that go through the timing cover that are up and down (respective to the motor)? Or the bottom two on the front of the cover?

The oil pan bolts will be a pain to get off if they're rounded, because of everything in the way. Maybe try biting down on them with some needle nose vice grips? Those bolts are kinda a pain to get out anyway, I used a ratcheting box-end wrench to take them out.
Yes, they're the bolts that are also part of the oil pan. They're pretty rounded off so I'm not really sure how I can possibly get them going. Vice grips were a no-go and I also have some damaged bolt remover sockets that got close, but still didn't get them to budge. I don't know how it would be possible to drill it out, but possibly heat it and then try, but I worry about that big ground wire that is holding up the whole damn works. If I can't get these bolts undone, I don't think I can continue the build on my own and might just have to have the thing towed and done professionally.
 

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did you unbolt the battery cable holder to give you more room. its almost impossible to take those two lower timing cover bolts out without lowering that metal conduit tray around the front of the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yeah, the negative ground wire that sits in that black tray thing was disconnected and dropped out of the way. Problem is there just isn't enough bolt left to grab onto so I am calling in a buddy of mine to drill it out if possible. It's been a cold week up here and I don't want to spend another day commuting on my motorcycle so I'm looking forward to getting the stupid cover off so she can go back together again.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Got the bolts out without having to drill anything. Work continues today!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Quick update - Got the old cam out and the new cam in. However, I ended up fumbling one of the retaining plate bolts and just my luck it goes right into the oil pan. Taking a lunch break and getting out the flexible magnets to see if I can fish it out of the damn thing. Stupid problem
 

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Yea magnets. You shoulda had a rag stuffed to cover that open area.
 

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Post back on getting the crank pulley installed.'
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I've got a pulley install tool so it shouldn't be too terribly difficult. I ordered a new bolt to replace the one living in the oil pan so I'll keep fishing around for the old one until the new one shows up. I didn't understand the geometry of the oil pan, but after seeing some pics of it...I don't see how it's even possible to fish it out of the hole that is in the middle of the baffle-like thing. I found the bolt with a big speaker magnet on the bottom so I can move it around the pan, but I can't slide it up the side or anything because of that plate and I haven't been able to fish my flexible magnet down the hole in the middle of it.

If I haven't gotten it out of the pan by the time the new bolt arrives, I will just weld a magnet to the bottom of the oil pan and that little bastard will stay put forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Quick update - Haven't gotten to work on the car nearly as much as I wanted. I spent several hours Monday and Tuesday this week trying to fish that stupid bolt in my oil pan out while I waited for its replacement to show up with no luck. I got home last night and for giggles I went at it again and low and behold, the first attempt, the magnet catches the bolt and I'm off to the races. Needless to say, I was excited. Anyway, got the cam retainer bolted and torqued down to spec, cam bolts are in and torqued to spec and the timing cover is on. Now, it's time for the Powerbond UDP to go on. The install tool that I got doesn't fit the bore so now I have to go find a new one somewhere as the stock crank bolt is way too short to help get the thing going.

Any tips on how to keep the engine from turning over? I used the wrench-in-spoke method when taking the stock balancer off, but the UDP doesn't have anything where you can slide a wrench into it.
 

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Any tips on how to keep the engine from turning over? I used the wrench-in-spoke method when taking the stock balancer off, but the UDP doesn't have anything where you can slide a wrench into it.
The underdrive pulley has 3 threaded holes and if you thread in 3 long bolts you can use a pry bar to hold it from turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Good advice. Another issue I'm having is getting an install tool that can reach the crank snout. The two I have tried don't reach deep enough. What has everyone else used to get the pulley started?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Dumb question time again. I'm putting everything back together, I've got the heads on and just need to get it all torqued down (waiting on my balancer tool to arrive to finish the front of the motor). I know that I have lost some trans fluid, but I don't know how much. What is the easiest way to top the trans off and what fluid is OEM so I know I'm putting in the correct fluid?
 

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Dumb question time again. I'm putting everything back together, I've got the heads on and just need to get it all torqued down (waiting on my balancer tool to arrive to finish the front of the motor). I know that I have lost some trans fluid, but I don't know how much. What is the easiest way to top the trans off and what fluid is OEM so I know I'm putting in the correct fluid?
Dex 6 atf, there is a special procedure to fill. Need a lift or to raise the car level, be at operating temp and run through the gears then remove drain plug. Add fluid until it starts to come out. There are several write ups.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Dex 6 atf, there is a special procedure to fill. Need a lift or to raise the car level, be at operating temp and run through the gears then remove drain plug. Add fluid until it starts to come out. There are several write ups.
Yeah, that looks like a huge pain just to top off the little bit of fluid that I lost. I only lost fluid through the cooler hoses after the car had sat for about a week so I don't think I lost a whole lot (way less than a quart or I would have had a much bigger mess on the floor). Is it possible to just poor some fluid into the open cooler lines and be done with it or does that not make sense?
 

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Yeah, that looks like a huge pain just to top off the little bit of fluid that I lost. I only lost fluid through the cooler hoses after the car had sat for about a week so I don't think I lost a whole lot (way less than a quart or I would have had a much bigger mess on the floor). Is it possible to just poor some fluid into the open cooler lines and be done with it or does that not make sense?
Easiest way to add would be at the top fill port on the trans. You can do it by raising the front of the car only, but will need a hand pump or funnel from under hood with hose routed to the fill port. A lot of people add up to 1qt of extra trans fluid since they tend to have been under filled at the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Trans related question - So, I've got everything just about put back together minus the intake manifold and drive belts. I installed a powerbond UDP using an install tool (made it super easy) and once it was on I used the old crank bolt to drive it down some more, took the old bolt out and put a new crank bolt in and torqued to spec plus the 140 degrees it calls for. The engine never spun over during any of this and I didn't think anything of it as the car is in park. I wanted to spin the engine over at this point to make sure the valvetrain was working and nothing felt like it was hanging up so I went to go put the car in neutral and the shifter won't go out of park. Is this due to fluid loss? The key is in the on position so I should be able to shift it. Thanks for the help guys!
 
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