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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. Pulled the exhaust, top end and heads. Next up is water pump and timing cover. I've read several threads that say the engine needs to be raised and the oil pan dropped in order to remove the timing cover. If I'm dropping the pan do I need to replace the gaskets? Are you only dropping it enough to reveal the lower bolts on the timing cover? I'm still not sure what exactly the pan is concealing because I haven't looked at it yet. Better just to pull the pan and then remove the oil pressure bypass valve, even though it's a lot more work? Also, do I need to drop the starter to get to the pan? Anyways, can't wait to get it together.
 

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I didn't raise my engine, you can get to the bottom timing cover bolts with a wrench. i disconnected the cable channel on the drivers side under the oil pan just to make it easier.

the reason you have to lower the pan is that the bolts on the timing belt dampener (which you will be replacing)can't be backed out all the way with the oil pump in place (poor engineering if you ask me).

You don't have to pull the starter, there are small plastic "inspection plates" on the back of the engine that i removed to see the back oil pan bolts. i didn't replace the oil pan gasket, just dropped the pan an inch, which actually required the removal of the bolts (not just loosening).

on the right side of the oil pick up tube connected to the bottom of the oil pump is a bolt that needs to be removed. i put a rag underneath it just in case it fell off. much easier to do if you have small hands. i removed the bolt with a ratcheting wrench
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right now I'm feeling pretty damn proud of myself. I have a bro who is a pro mechanic and was gonna borrow his bad ass 36" breaker bar to bust off the balancer bolt. Had a few drinks (always helps) and walked into the garage, grabbed the $25 craftsman 1/2" impact gun and went at it. After three cycles of the air compressor filling the bolt starts coming off. Awesome! Way to go craftsman and costco spiced rum/diet coke!
 

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The oil pan does not need to be dropped in order to pull the timing cover. The front two bolts of the oil pan, however, do go into the timing cover so they need to be removed. You can then lift the cover out and away. I think most people drop the oil pan in order to get another inch or so clearance on the oil pump pickup tube.

And when I say "drop" the pan, I mean let it hang there. You cannot get it out without raising the motor. I decided to go ahead and put mine back together without a gasket change because I don't have the tool to lift the motor. Since the oil pan is largely independent of all the cam swap work, I won't mind removing it later on in case it does leak.

I don't know if you need to pull the starter. Probably. I pulled mine pretty early on.
 

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I dropped my oil pan and the gasket is reusable. Dropping the pan makes it easier to remove/install the oil pickup tube and bolt, along with the pump it self. The oil pan is very easy to remove, i used 2 dod lifters to hold the engine up and the pan practically falls into your hands. Then totally remove the pickup tube, 2 bolts holding it to the journals and one retainer at the oil pump. This does several things.
1. It makes it wayyyy easier to reinstall the pump retainer bolt
2 . Less chance of damaging the o-ring when reinstalling...new or used.
3. If you drop the retainer bolt with the pan on, you will have to remove the pan anyway.

When reinstalling, put a little silicone where the 3 surfaces join up...pan block and timing cover.

Dropping the pan only took me about 10 more minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's some great feedback. Thanks a lot. Off to the gym, a long run, and then under the car. Last time I did this was my 69 Firebird. Built up a .030 over 455 and Muncie M-20 in that one. Thought it was pretty fast. But truth is the G8 will smoke it. Memories always seem better than reality.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well...spent a few minutes to raise the engine, drop the pan, and unbolt the pick-up tube from the windage tray. Absolute piece of cake to remove the oil pump as a complete assembly. After reading the posts of what a nightmare the oil pump is I can't imagine why you would not drop the pan. Very, very easy. And this way I can remove the oil pressure valve. Fun, fun.
 

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Car RamRod
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If you get a minute, can you describe your method of raising the engine and pulling the pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Piece of cake. Just unbolt the two engine mount nuts from below. I put a piece of 2x4 on my floor jack and raised the motor on the oil pan. The pan looked plenty strong. I was able to get it about 2" off the mounts and placed a small piece of 2x2 between the mount and frame. I'd show you photos but I don't have enough posts to include pics. The pan came right off without any trouble. No need to move or disconnect anything else, including the steering, which I read somewhere that it needed to be flipped forward. With the pan off the oil pump slides right out with the pickup tube connected. Just remove two nuts from the windage tray that secure the pickup tube. I also removed the bolts that mount the cable tray at the front of the pan and let it hang.
 
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Car RamRod
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thanks. Great info. 2 bolts, jack the pan and brace between the engine and mount.
 

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You also mentioned the oil pressure valve in the oil pan. Did you just block it off (I think someone used a Dorman bolt with crush washer), or did you replace it?
Work on those posts so you can put up some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes. Unbolt it and in its place use an oil pan bolt with the correct threads and crush washer. Simple.
 

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Car RamRod
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I'm now interested in what your oil pressure runs with the relief blocked.
 

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Piece of cake. Just unbolt the two engine mount nuts from below. I put a piece of 2x4 on my floor jack and raised the motor on the oil pan. The pan looked plenty strong. I was able to get it about 2" off the mounts and placed a small piece of 2x2 between the mount and frame. I'd show you photos but I don't have enough posts to include pics. The pan came right off without any trouble. No need to move or disconnect anything else, including the steering, which I read somewhere that it needed to be flipped forward. With the pan off the oil pump slides right out with the pickup tube connected. Just remove two nuts from the windage tray that secure the pickup tube. I also removed the bolts that mount the cable tray at the front of the pan and let it hang.
If you want to email me those pics Ill post them for you. PM'd email address.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cam swap is complete. Run's great but very loud. The only oil pressure gauge I have is the bar graph on the console. It shows 30psi at idle and the full 50 or 55 at speed. I don't think it will show more than that but not looking at it right now.
 
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