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Discussion Starter #1
I have a bit of wind noise and a water leak on my driver's side door. I think it is caused by the door frame seal. The seal, P/N 92203092 is no longer available, at least from GM domestically, for the G8. The seal for the Caprice PPV, P/N 92253114, is, and is relatively inexpensive. Are they interchangeable?
 

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I dont know about Interchange ability but I have the door seals off the parts car inner or outer ? give me a pm thanks Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info, but this is definitely a door fit/seal issue. I can pull on the door and make the noise go away. Plus there is the leak while driving in heavy rain.
 

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AH OK. Yea then new seal in order. May want to check your door striker as well. There is a rubber part on the CAaprices do the G8 have that as well? That wears away could screw up the door alignment. I ordered some replacement strikers and notice the replacements do not come with a rubber section. All metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
AH OK. Yea then new seal in order. May want to check your door striker as well. There is a rubber part on the CAaprices do the G8 have that as well? That wears away could screw up the door alignment. I ordered some replacement strikers and notice the replacements do not come with a rubber section. All metal.
There is, and there seems to be a bit of wear, but I don't think enough to account for the air/water leak. I will swap a couple of the strikers around to see if that does do anything.

Neither seal appears to be obviously distorted or damage. I'll post a video of how much the door moves.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is quick video I did comparing the two front doors. The driver's side definitely has more movement to it.

 

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The striker does adjust, the two bolts are holding it in place but you loosen those and it moves in 4 directions. SO make sure and mark for reference where it is now because if you take if off it's hell trying to find the same spot again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The striker does adjust, the two bolts are holding it in place but you loosen those and it moves in 4 directions. SO make sure and mark for reference where it is now because if you take if off it's hell trying to find the same spot again.
I'll try it again, but I actually swapped the front and rear door strikers earlier today and I couldn't get the plate they are bolted into to move. Nor could I get it to move when I tinkered with this last fall.
 

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Your backing plates might have rusted in place. Thats good though, really don't want to adjust them yet if wear on the striker is the issue. Here is the info from the service manual, they are supposed to move anyway.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your backing plates might have rusted in place. Thats good though, really don't want to adjust them yet if wear on the striker is the issue. Here is the info from the service manual, they are supposed to move anyway.

Thank you for this. I don't know where I got the impression that the striker wasn't adjustable. I swear I had a conversation elsewhere on here, but I went back through my not-so-long posting history, and I couldn't find it. Could have been a Google results thing. I will try this in the morning, unless I get impatient and go outside and try it now. I had the strikers off today and I can tell you that at the very least the pieces they fasten to aren't rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #12


Took another whack at the striker plate this morning, literally.

After marking the old location with tape, I completely removed the striker to see if I could move the mounting plate around (and saw the hash marks stamped into the pillar. I have no idea where I got the idea that this wasn't adjustable). I assumed that the plate was contained by some sort of cage spot welded in there, but it felt like it was glued in; I could move it in and out, but not up and down, or side to side. So, I loosely reassembled the striker, and with a small block of wood and a hammer, I tapped on the edge of the striker, moving it the 1/8th inch or so I needed. Tightened everything up, tested the door, and the slop is gone! I haven't driven it yet, but the outer seal on the door is now tight against the door frame.

I even adjusted the passenger side front striker, as some riders have mentioned that the door was hard to open. This time I followed the procedure you posted, and the door now seems easier to open.

Now to attack my mirror rattle...
 

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Took another whack at the striker plate this morning, literally.

After marking the old location with tape, I completely removed the striker to see if I could move the mounting plate around (and saw the hash marks stamped into the pillar. I have no idea where I got the idea that this wasn't adjustable). I assumed that the plate was contained by some sort of cage spot welded in there, but it felt like it was glued in; I could move it in and out, but not up and down, or side to side. So, I loosely reassembled the striker, and with a small block of wood and a hammer, I tapped on the edge of the striker, moving it the 1/8th inch or so I needed. Tightened everything up, tested the door, and the slop is gone! I haven't driven it yet, but the outer seal on the door is now tight against the door frame.

I even adjusted the passenger side front striker, as some riders have mentioned that the door was hard to open. This time I followed the procedure you posted, and the door now seems easier to open.

Now to attack my mirror rattle...
Although it is an old thread I am just wondering if it did indeed stop the wind noise? I am currently having the same issue.
 

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I also used the wood and hammer method to get my driver’s door adjusted so it closes nice and snug (it was open about 1/4” too far). Thank you to Steve and Jimal. I would never have thought the striker was adjustable if not for your info!
 
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