[KCGoat]

Hey guys - as some of the threads on this topic are fairly old, just wanted to run a few questions past the Forum.

1.) I read that it's a good idea to replace the boot and two couplings as long as everything is apart. However, when I checked several GM part sites the boot (92143595) and couplings (92148355 x 2) were discontinued. Have you guys found any others that will work that you would recommend?

2.) If you have done this, did you have to remove the transmission mount to get to the nuts on the back of the flange?

3.) Any other tips besides indexing the shaft components to avoid vibration?

4.) I can feel the "thunk" in the bottom of the center console when accelerating from a stop, so assuming the bearing is shot.

Thanks in advance for any assistance, and just trying to make sure I am prepared! Have a wonderful Independence Day!

 

[PONY MAN]

The boot appears to be available from various online General Motors retailers albeit didn't actually try purchasing it. Center console clunk/thunk when accelerating is a typical carrier bearing symptom.

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center carrier bearing replacement

I looked and couldn't really find much on a center carrier bearing replacement. I removed my driveshaft today. Mine is gone. No bushing left at all. It really only made a couple clunks upon accelerating and then it went away. But i'm amazed the driveshaft didn't spin apart with literally 0...

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[1awsmg8]

I bet it looks something like this!

 

[KCGoat]

Hey Pony & 1awsmg8 - thanks for the replies and links! I had read those threads in my research, and that's where I found the part numbers for the items that now show "discontinued". Oh well, at least the bearing is still available and in-stock. Also, what I wouldn't do to have a lift. As the G8 is lowered, I ran it up on ramps over a low spot in the driveway and wedged underneath to see if I could get a peek at the carrier bearing or wiggle the driveshaft - but no dice. Thanks guys -

 

[PONY MAN]

A couple of the threads have alternate part numbers for the couplings. One was cross-referenced using a Dorman part number and the other was provided by a member. Locally, there are shops where you pay a fee to rent a lift. Ask around. If merely taking a gander see if anyone will let you use a lift for a quick inspection.

 

[1awsmg8]

You will not be able to see it because it’s covered by an aluminum cover. To visually inspect it it has to be removed
I picked up 2 brand new driveshaft couplers last week. They are available. Just search around.

 

[PONY MAN]

Was referencing inspecting along the lines of checking for excess play or movement.

 

[KCGoat]

Hey guys - many thanks for the responses - much appreciated. The couplers are now $136 ea - wow. Will likely go ahead and order both couplers while I have everything apart to replace the carrier bearing. Next is to upgrade my current jack stands and then the big fun begins...

 

[GMpowered]

I'm a month late to this post but I just did this job 2 days ago.
1) the carrier bearing I bought came with the bearing, dust cap, drive shaft o-ring and new clip ring. Price ranges from like 80-200 bucks for this, have to look around.
* I used all these new parts except for the dust cover. for whatever reason the machining on that new part was so tight it did not want to go onto the driveshaft, I just used the stock one which went on correctly. The boot was fine and I reused it but there is a clip ring on that I did replace. could use a few different types of clamps for that, even a metal zip-tie would do.

2) you do not have to take the transmission support out because you dont even have to take the front half of the drive shaft out. Drive shaft can be unbolted back by the diff and then the carrier barring removed. Separate the drive shaft and leave the front there, supported of course.** remember to unclip the boot and slide it to the back half of the axle so you dont damage it.

This went pretty smooth for me and fixed the acceleration noise as well as some highway vibration.

Your probably done with the work but I thought I'd throw a couple tips in here.

 

[KCGoat]

I'm a month late to this post but I just did this job 2 days ago.
1) the carrier bearing I bought came with the bearing, dust cap, drive shaft o-ring and new clip ring. Price ranges from like 80-200 bucks for this, have to look around.
* I used all these new parts except for the dust cover. for whatever reason the machining on that new part was so tight it did not want to go onto the driveshaft, I just used the stock one which went on correctly. The boot was fine and I reused it but there is a clip ring on that I did replace. could use a few different types of clamps for that, even a metal zip-tie would do.

2) you do not have to take the transmission support out because you dont even have to take the front half of the drive shaft out. Drive shaft can be unbolted back by the diff and then the carrier barring removed. Separate the drive shaft and leave the front there, supported of course.** remember to unclip the boot and slide it to the back half of the axle so you dont damage it.

This went pretty smooth for me and fixed the acceleration noise as well as some highway vibration.

Your probably done with the work but I thought I'd throw a couple tips in here.

Hey there GMPowered - Many thanks for the note and appreciate the detailed reply! I actually haven't done the repair yet due to myriad issues, but your tips will be helpful when I tackle this project in a month or so. Thanks again for taking time to reply & take care -

 

[383_Stroker]

I'm a month late to this post but I just did this job 2 days ago.
1) the carrier bearing I bought came with the bearing, dust cap, drive shaft o-ring and new clip ring. Price ranges from like 80-200 bucks for this, have to look around.
* I used all these new parts except for the dust cover. for whatever reason the machining on that new part was so tight it did not want to go onto the driveshaft, I just used the stock one which went on correctly. The boot was fine and I reused it but there is a clip ring on that I did replace. could use a few different types of clamps for that, even a metal zip-tie would do.

2) you do not have to take the transmission support out because you dont even have to take the front half of the drive shaft out. Drive shaft can be unbolted back by the diff and then the carrier barring removed. Separate the drive shaft and leave the front there, supported of course.** remember to unclip the boot and slide it to the back half of the axle so you dont damage it.

This went pretty smooth for me and fixed the acceleration noise as well as some highway vibration.

Your probably done with the work but I thought I'd throw a couple tips in here.

I'll add to this, that it's best practice to mark the driveshaft before you separate it so you can put the 2 pieces back together clocked the same way as they came apart.

 

[KCGoat]

I'll add to this, that it's best practice to mark the driveshaft before you separate it so you can put the 2 pieces back together clocked the same way as they came apart.
Hey 383 Stroker - got it & thanks for the tip - much appreciated!!