AM I correct in understanding that you no longer have a MIL light illuminated. But when they hook up the tester at the inspection place, it tells them that there is some type of fault information in memory that prevents them from running a complete check of the emissions system.
What exactly is the inspector saying that is still not ready ? evap readiness test, 02 test, 02 heater ?, the evap one can be a biatch, there is a procedure that needs to be done to get that one ready, of course all of this assuming you haven't tampered with your tune..
Hell, if you can, just keep driving it and wait a few days. I've never heard of a car really going over 100 miles to be in a "ready" state. I guess that is something I should keep in mind when I reset my ECU for any given reason.
Maybe your *not so expensive* corvette special sensor is not so friendly in the G8. A few years ago, one of my boys owned a 97 Chevy pickup. It would fault a transmission function from time to time. The quick fix while driving down the road, was to select neutral, turn the key off, then restart and move the lever back into drive an continue on. Naturally it happened just prior to having a required smog check performed. We did a normal code reader reset this time prior to going over to the checkout place. Tech hooked up the tester, an *bang*, unable to proceed due to a transmission problem report on his tester.
He advised to go for a drive of about 25 to 40 miles, then return. He was sure it would heal itself from the memory still in there (an it did). passed the test and now legal for the next 2 years. That was then, this is now. You know the ECM's have advanced a lot since then. So who knows how much good time driving is required now, to wipe the slate clean. Maybe the *good* fault code readers nowadays can perform a clean sweep of the ECM's when used, vs the battery method.
Try this, it's not a guarantee the evap test would get ready, but if this procedure doesn't work in the G8's, at least it should shorten the time it takes for the test to get ready. I've seeing my car get the test ready in 50 miles, some other times it takes 200 miles, I don't know exactly what triggers the test because I've never had the need for the test to complete, and if I do, I have a complete different way to make the sucker pass :gr_devil:
Anyways, I hope it helps
Generally the drive cycle has specific tests that have to be performed for a specific time period and speeds, and it seems to be model dependent.
It's easy to complete step 1 and 2, if you have enough road, then you can try the other steps, but if not, complete step 1 and 2, and drive the car normal, trying to reach speed and decelerate more often.
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
Yea where love in a large military city where everyone has diff driving ways. I guess i have to drive a few days and hope its enough haha. Thanks thow i will do those as mich as possible. Knocked out the idle and the half throttle to 55
Thanks. Auto guide is fishy some times. And well with about 170 miles it passed. So i guess it needed just a touch over 100. Thanks for the steps, i did as many as i could, but have no idea if they helped haha. Thanks guys