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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New here , I recently purchased a base model G8 . Stock to the bone. My first thing I did to the car was try to install the subwoofers and amplifier to the factory radio. I tapped into the yellow and red wires and brown wire by the driver door . (I had the car accessory’s on playing music to confirm it works ) .. I was putting the wires back but without electrical tape (my mistake) and the wires had touched some metal. I noticed the left rear door speaker went out first , then all the speakers. Noticed my radio went out as well !
I undid everything ,connected back the regular wires . Now my front left turning signal out , no radio or air controls , no power windows , my dash says airbags contact dealer etc.. anybody can help or give a clue to what’s going on
Thank you !
 

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Welcome to the forum. Try checking both sides of the fuses in at least the instrument panel and trunk for continuity.
 
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For starters >>>>> Does this mean your car has the single disc radio, and possibly a manual type of HVAC ? Check to see if your forward and aft aux power outlets still work with the ignition on. If not it would indicate that the the R7 RAP relay (retained accessory power) is not energizing (which must work to power up your windows).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For starters >>>>> Does this mean your car has the single disc radio, and possibly a manual type of HVAC ? Check to see if your forward and aft aux power outlets still work with the ignition on. If not it would indicate that the the R7 RAP relay (retained accessory power) is not energizing (which must work to power up your windows).
yes I do have the single disc radio . My front aux was working before the radio went black. My 12v / lighter plug still works , as well as my air it’s on but I can turn it off. As far as my windows they still work just extremely slow.
I didn’t have any issue with anything before that
 

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To avoid myself getting lost in all of this, I would have to go in steps. Did all 4 windows have a lot better speed prior to the sparking ? Does the current window speed remain the same with the engine running ( since voltage would/should be around 14.7 volts vs static battery at 12) ? There have been some members say their window speed seems slow to them. but I"m thinking that they are comparing GM's selected G8 window speed to other vehicles that they may have owned in the past, that move at a much faster rate.
How does your left vs right turn signal flashing arrows respond in the cluster, since you say your left front lamp is inop ? When you turn on the hazard flasher, do the 5 remaining lamps an cluster arrows cycle properly ? Any chance that the front left lamp is inop due to being blown ? Does your front left amber running light work correctly ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First off car was running before this problem , now it don’t want to start. Sound like it’s not getting gas to the engine. But yes the windows had good speed before the blow , automatic windows as well. But not now . The left one on the cluster blinks really fast compared to the right one . Headlights work as well as amber light just the front turn signal.
 

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To avoid myself getting lost in all of this....
Afraid it's already too late. Best of fortune resolving the various issues.
 

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Not posting everything wrong with your car in your first post (as you add more an more things wrong with it), makes it real tough to help you in troubleshooting this thing. For one it sounds like you just need to replace your left front combination dual element parking an turn-signal lamp. There are some important circuits that are powered up from the "rear" circuit breaker panel (in the trunk). They include things like the power for the fuel pump, the radio instrument panel cluster, driver information display, forward dome an reading lights, an the remote control door lock receiver among other things. Do your doors lock an unlock corectly with the keyfob as they should ? . That circuit breaker panel is powered up by 2 60A link fuses that are attached to the positive post of the battery. It would be best to have a meter to verify the condition of those link fuses (as well as your eyes) to start with, as well as the condition of all the fuses on that circuit breaker panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My apologies I didn’t mean to confuse anyone I’m just going off the sequence of how things happened. My key was acting as if I didn’t want to work unless I got close to it.
I replaced the battery earlier now it’s comes to life a little more. Windows goes up fast ,(well regular speed) I can lock the car with keyfob .
My dash don’t say contact dealer , or the things it use to say just the normal things from before.
I can go get a meter and test the fuses tomorrow . Hopefully that solves my problems
 
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