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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a similar issue to what Nums stated, except that my key is the original switch blade key with the car.

I took my car in 4 months ago to get the recall completed but after several hiccups at the dealer I decided not to get the recall completed because I like the switchblade. It was falling apart so I wanted to fix that and get a new key pad for it.

I finally ordered the new keypad and installed it last night. I reprogrammed both fobs and the lock/unlock etc buttons all work. I then tried doing the key learn process: use a working key turn on engine, turn off engine and remove key, insert key to be programmed within 5 seconds and turn to ON position, then turn off and the key is supposed to be programmed. This is when I get the immobilized message.

What's odd is if I use the backup key and start the car, then remove it and start it with the switchblade key the car starts up AND I get the immobilized message. I can even drive it like normal but the message is still present.

So the key seems to work but the system is confused or something. Any suggestions?
 

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The car may be confused, but now so am I. It says to program the key portion first, then program the remote section. They show that the remote section is *not* supposed to be attached to the key section (when doing the re-programming) at this time, but I'm not positive that is a requirement to have success. How bout trying a re-learn program, as it is written in the owners manual. Maybe that would change the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I followed the owners manual and it's still stating engine immobilized. (For future reference view pages 2-12 and 2-13)
 

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If both keys are the originals and worked correctly, an those are the sections that contain the transponders required for a normal start, why would the key sections even need to be re-programed ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The switchblade hadn't been used for months and when I went to use it, the key would not start the car. The battery had been removed for months so I figured it got out of sync with the ignition and needed to be synced again.
 

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Its been proven that just using a key section that had previously been learned (as your flip had been), that until something happens (that requires that all your keys need to be relearned), that having a bad battery or no battery in the remote section, would not stop the key from working. When the key is rotated to the on position, the exciter ring around the key cylinder activates that transponder, to send out its coded signal, an authorize a proper engine start. But why*that key* can't prevent that immobilizer display, has got me fooled for now.
 

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It's supposed to be turned to the ON position then off, remove good key, insert new key. Not started then turned off...
 

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Any chance that that particular key fob may have hit the deck one to many times, causing the transponder to now have a hard time sending out its learned code when excited. Maybe you could put *that key* into the ignition cylinder (while holding your known good key fob up against the ignition cylinder), and then go for an engine start to see if the engine immobilizer display does not illuminate. If it repeatedly works correctly, I would lean towards that suspect key section having a very weak transponder embedded in that plastic case.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
- Insert bad key in ignition cylinder
- Hold good key next to ignition cylinder
- Turn ignition to ON
= No Engine Immobilized message, but car will not start

- Insert bad key in ignition cylinder
- Hold good key well away from ignition cylinder
- Turn bad key to ON
= Engine Immobilized, car will not start

At this point my guess is that I screwed up the key when fixing the fob since it was falling apart. I couldn't get the upper piece containing the switchblade apart and had all kind of tools poking in there. Plus I put in a very tiny screw to hold it together so probably knicked the transponder. Thanks for your help.
 

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They show that the remote section is *not* supposed to be attached to the key section (when doing the re-programming) at this time, but I'm not positive that is a requirement to have success.
I've reprogrammed keys multiple times with the two halves connected together. It doesn't make any difference.
 

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^^^^ I figured as much. Those 2 sections (by design) each do their own thing. I had just posted what the owners manual said. Even thou it doesn't really make any sense to keep them separated, an you confirmed that.
 

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You gents ever get this figured out?

Replaced the alternator

Now key is stuck in ignition.
No Power
No lights
No horn
I've got the vehicle immobilization light on dash - it is, undoubtedly, LIT.
Recharged battery
Checked all grounds
Best I can tell -- its the GM Immobilization system that is active.

But - How do you reset this G-damn thing? It's a 2009 G8
 

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You gents ever get this figured out?

Replaced the alternator

Now key is stuck in ignition.
No Power
No lights
No horn
I've got the vehicle immobilization light on dash - it is, undoubtedly, LIT.
Recharged battery
Checked all grounds
Best I can tell -- its the GM Immobilization system that is active.

But - How do you reset this G-damn thing? It's a 2009 G8
The "key stuck in ignition, no lights, no horn" part makes me think either one of the big fuses is blown or else you didn't hook something back up.
 

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In the passkey III days you could program a new key without a functioning key by turning the key on (not start) for three 10 minute cycles. Anyone know if this still works?

Key on, wait 10 minutes (I believe the security light would go off after the time was up), key off for less than 5 seconds, then back on again. After a half hour the key would be accepted. My grand prix has lost its mind a few times forcing me to do the half hour relearn.

Things like the horn and lights not working would make me suspicious of other things though.
 

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The "key stuck in ignition, no lights, no horn" part makes me think either one of the big fuses is blown or else you didn't hook something back up.
Not yet fixed but "thank you" brother. Work pulled me away from the car - but diving back in today.
 

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did you figure out the issue! help I'm having the same issue. key is stuck in the ignition and security lockout active. I have no power! I have changed the battery still nothing. only fuseable link I see is the one back by the battery on the positive post. is there another useable link somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ended up having to just use my backup key. I never was able to fix the issue.
 

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I ended up having to just use my backup key. I never was able to fix the issue.
Not sure if this is the right place to post ... BUT , we just had recall 14445 performed. "Unintended ignition key rotation" .... and the wife claims that it is now easier to insert key and start up!. One huge drawback is that they took away our "switchblade style" key/fob. So now we have TWO backup style non foldable keys. Has this happened to everyone else out there? Seeing how this was a recall, I would assume you all have had this happen? If not, then you're as stubborn as me and procrastinate about getting it done.
 

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^^^^^^^^ Exercising the key recall does a couple of things. For starters, any fold up key version you happen to let them mess with, will be taken out of service an replaced with a fixed blade style fob. It would have been best to know about that, so you could make up your mind about even allowing them to do that recall on them. That recall takes that folding key an its fob out of service, an replaces it with a fixed blade fob that has a key that has been rotated 90 degrees from its prior fixed position. The net result is a key fob that ends up with a forward biased lean angle of that fob after engine start. That (in it self) adds a lot of protection to prevent the key an fob from rotating back towards the driver an shutting down your engine ( like hitting a severe bump and or your knee bumping the fob) at a bad time. People that love to hang things on that fob, are actually helping that key fob want to rotate the ignition back to the accessory position. Course GM could have spent a couple of extra bucks (when designing the ignition key cylinder in the first place), by making it impossible to do that. Simply by designing a cylinder that required that the key be pushed into the cylinder first to then be able to move the key back towards the accessory or off position. Messing around with my fobs, I can see that (with the new key orientation), that sure enough, it feels like it would be a lot easier to rotate that fob an start the engine. But I like my folding fobs, an refuse to let GM mess with them. A while back, I was driving a brand new GM rental car ( the Cruise model). That key fob actually had a key that was already rotated 90 degrees an was still a fold up design. So GM could have easily done that with this car an allow the fold up version to remain in play. BUT NOoooooooo.
 
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