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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Do not throw away your cracked side glass mouldings, The section that cracks is not rubber it is a plastic that holds the rubber/felt together from a molded process, It is not porous either,which is why no matter how much silicone or rubber protector you apply does not work for the cracking section..That cracking section does not seal anything at all it simply is a transformation piece between trim and glass I'm working on 3 processes of repairs,right now the cheapest way is buy the 175.00 black ones, i am retaining the stainless originals.the rubber insert comes out very easily from the metal part, i have 4 manufacturers working with me on the insert replacements and am hard at work getting all 4 inserts for around 99.00 target price, will keep you informed as progress happens
 
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Do not throw away your cracked side glass mouldings, The section that cracks is not rubber it is a plastic that holds the rubber/felt together from a molded process, It is not porous either,which is why no matter how much silicone or rubber protector you apply does not work for the cracking section..That cracking section does not seal anything at all it simply is a transformation piece between trim and glass I'm working on 3 processes of repairs,right now the cheapest way is buy the 175.00 black ones, i am retaining the stainless originals.the rubber insert comes out very easily from the metal part, i have 4 manufacturers working with me on the insert replacements and am hard at work getting all 4 inserts for around 99.00 target price, will keep you informed as progress happens
So is the $99 for all four a repair solution? Provided you turn in your old ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So is the $99 for all four a repair solution? Provided you turn in your old ones?
No Sir, you simply install the new inserts to existing metal trim, and will look like a brand new set of the current 300.00 stainless ones for sale, providing the metal part is not messed up
 

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No Sir, you simply install the new inserts to existing metal trim, and will look like a brand new set of the current 300.00 stainless ones for sale, providing the metal part is not messed up
Ah I see.

Do you have any images of how the remove the inserts?

And how long would these new inserts last? Would they be rubber? Thus allowing us to provide some protection via conditioners?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Working on that !, This project just started Monday, Once you tap off trim from vehicle, you simply insert a razor or tiny bladed flat knife, screwdriver etc.sideways between metal piece and cracked area and it will easily release from metal pulling out gently. At this moment i am curing a bead of black silicone taped off of cracked area for an experiment. as of now, it may be worth to purchase the black set at 175.00 for all 4 and transplant the seal into the stainless original ones,they remove and install quite painlessly
 

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Working on that !, This project just started Monday, Once you tap off trim from vehicle, you simply insert a razor or tiny bladed flat knife, screwdriver etc.sideways between metal piece and cracked area and it will easily release from metal pulling out gently. At this moment i am curing a bead of black silicone taped off of cracked area for an experiment. as of now, it may be worth to purchase the black set at 175.00 for all 4 and transplant the seal into the stainless original ones,they remove and install quite painlessly
Interesting.

What about the following?

And how long would these new inserts last? Would they be rubber? Thus allowing us to provide some protection via conditioners?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I sure hope the manufacturer can do them in rubber or convert the cracking area to rubber also otherwise they will surely crack again,it needs hard plastic for the structure to stay put in the metal trim but needs rubber in the cracking area to last. It is at least a week away till they get back with options,as they are now laser cutting them for a trial of options
 
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Great you are taking this on.
Are the clips that invariably break on removal available ?
If not could these be made as well ?
Thanks
 

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Great you are taking this on.
Are the clips that invariably break on removal available ?
If not could these be made as well ?
Thanks
It sounds like the solution to removing them correctly is the following:

Just open door and tap on trim edge up[ward] with plastic or wood and it pops right up, then pull away from mirror,...
 

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Interested to see how this turns out. Really been avoiding buying a whole new trim set just because mine are cracked all these years.
 
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Interested to see how this turns out. Really been avoiding buying a whole new trim set just because mine are cracked all these years.
Likewise.
 

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I'm intrigued. If it lasts longer than the stock pieces, I'm probably in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The clips are still widely available, I can reuse all of mine if careful, the clips and strips are still pristine on mine, only the dam cracked plastic area. It turns my stomach to spend all that cash for something to get what you had and not better or faster ! Especially after getting a pristine set of rear lamp housings yesterday for 200.00 Those melt from hot bulbs,LEDs fix that.The silicone bead testing did not go so well, it covered the cracks but looks like **** ! Oh well i was a Electrical/Driveability Specialist for GM 40 yrs Not a trim dude !
 

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I have only changed one (RF on wifes GT) but a year later on closer inspection her other three are developing hairline cracks.
The GT is an outside all weather car , so far it is the only one suffereing.
Have ordered the other ones as they are not going to get better.

Has for snapping clips and the cracking part being plastic,

The part number has changed numerous times, any idea if anything changed in the construction?
There is thread after thread of clips being broken on removal
I researched the removal techniques, and carefully tapped up the trim the same way and the tabs broke off.
I am not unfamiliar with this type of work.
Hard plastic,
The trim piece I have here is April 2008 production
It does not appear to be separate bonded molded to the flocked rubber part.
In fact, the area that was hidden from the elements under the mirror is still supple.
Not arguing with your observations, I may be going blind or the part changed slightly with the number changes.
Do you possibly have photos of yours with the plastic separated from the rubber?
Thanks again for pursuing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It is normal for the plastic retainer to break they are still available from dealers and vendors,, the inner rubber with cracked portion comes out of the metal trim easily after helping out with knife etc. there are new numbers for same stainless trim or the black trim ones can be separated to install into stainless old molding part, It is painfull to spend big bucks on a otherwise perfect piece.today i am working on a real cheap fix for 5 bucks that looks incredible but it started raining again.too many garage queens !
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Let me know what you think of the 5.00 repair keep in mind it is a quickie not final,too rainy outside today
 

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Presume it doesn't impede the operation of the window nor does the glass "grab" it going up or down. PONY MAN'S "fix"... take a razor blade and run it along the edge of the trim. Prefer the black belt molding over the factory "chrome" and too bad the upper and lower set weren't a factory option. At any rate, hopefully things pan out with one of the manufacturers.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well after trying to get several manufacturers to supply a new insert for side window mouldings, i'm not going to be suckered into high 5 figures investment, To have the original chrome ones as new, simply purchase the much cheaper black set and install into old chrome set, the new set inserts come out easily and install into chrome mldgs. As for modding/removing outer distorted section, while it looks much better, it will introduce lots of water into doors with that piece cleaned up or missing
 
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