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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Whats up yall.
Im in the market for a new car with the requirements being a 4door sedan (preferably v8 wagon for dad status) that can hit 400hp the easiest and is bigger than a jetta but not a tank like a charger (too fkin common)..
Now, I have ZERO EXPERIENCE with V8s. In fact I have only strictly driven VW cars. Currently driving a MKV K04 Jetta on wm/ injection (300/300) I know, wtf numbers probably around here. So initially my first choice is a 10-12 Audi S4. Unfortunately the manuals hold good value and are on the higher end of what I want to spend right now especially factoring getting to stage2 with pulley properly. My only other options considering were a e92 m3, and a SS (but thats probably a fat no because its too expensive to start with). And then someone mentioned a G8 (at half the price)...

So for the last hour or so Ive been clicking away here learning stuff and youtubing some motivation per say. and yea! BUT the only thing that kills this idea is the automatic BUT for comparison I test drove an auto S4 and it still pulled. So later today im gonna sneak by a local dealership and test drive (what should I look out for? im only considering higher mileage 100K +).

Now lets talk mods. From what ive gathered; a tune, with cams and headers (transmission tune?), should put me around 400whp? and a butt load of torque.

Who are the shelf brands for tunes? Ive seen diablo, intunes? is it better to just go custom?

Intake/exhaust im not worried as Ill have a local shop fab something up. But im guessing everyone does xpipes with what size pipes?

cams? does anyone do water methanol injection? I am here in so*cal so its something Id like to have. and yes I will pound this thing to the ground as clean as possible and NOT on some silly 22" bs...
Does 100K miles @ around 10-14$k average?
 

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Are you bringing this over from the car lounge? If so, Hey! I was the one that mentioned it there. On here you can see my full sig and mods.
What to look out for?
-Definitely grab the car fax and see how many owners there are. To some, it's important.
- Listen to the engine. Look up some vids on the lifter tick. One of the main reasons for a cam is getting the DOD and the lifters out of there. They are a failure point.
-Unlike your VW, some parts are not easy to come by. Make sure the interior is good condition.
-Check rear fenders for rolling and the quality of the paint (cracks, rust, etc if they are rolled)
-read the suspension stickies to see common failure points.

My baby cam (that's right, only one cam) that is great on the stock converter makes 400 rwhp/38x rwtq. This is through a cheap set of headers (Pyes/Manzo), a cheap-er over the radiator intake, no cats and full exhaust. All of my mods (including the cam) were bought used and as far as power mods, I'm in it for about $3,500. I have run a best of 12.29 with only a 1.9 60 ft. I will need a converter to go faster in a straight line BUT that's not really what I'm about. I like to go fast around corners too and I use manual mode a lot. I have been told by my cam supplier that upgrading the converter will leave me with less desirable results for the types of driving I like. If, I was just wanted to go fast down the drag strip, then a more aggressive cam and heft torque converter would go in.

No off the shelf tunes. Just dont. If anything, you can get remote tuning through some really great tuners around the country. You either purchase HP tuners to use on your laptop for dataloging or they sell you a scan tool that can upload/data log/ etc. As soon as you get headers, you will need a real tune which a handheld cannot do. I made this mistake when I first bought the car. I was swayed by the intune because it was cool. I returned it a week later and got a group discount with my local club at a local LS tuner.

No water meth until you boost it. Some people do a flex fuel kit but the NA gains are negligible. You can realistically expect about 450 horse to the tire on an NA build with stock cubes. That's pretty good factoring in the powertrain loss through the auto. It will also be expensive. It's usually cheaper to make power with FI. With that said, 400 wheel (on a "heartbreaker" dyno) and the ability to run high 11's makes for a really fun street car.
 

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interesting switch. The G8 is now a pretty old platform at this point. If performance is all you really care about, the G8 fits the bill very nicely. But please remember that Pontiac brought this car to market for those of us really just wanting something with 4 doors and balls without all the bells and whistles that drive the price up for similarly sized and spec'd german cars. My brand new g8 with performance package and onyx/red seats was only $24k after new car rebates and pontiac's going out of business sale. I couldn't buy a malibu for that price at the time, and the malibu ltz had a lot more options.

I say this not to rip on the car I still own and love, but just because i want to be honest. The inside of this 2008-2009 car is cheap and plastic, especially compared to an S4. Better than many pontiacs of its era, but still very cheap. I have 60k on mine and do not have any creaks and rattles that have plagued cheaper amercian cars... and I'd say it's in the ballpark to the german fit and finish, but still not quite there. And we were all ok with that when we bought it. We loved pontiac for giving us power without the fluff. 10 years later though, the somewhat bare-bones pontiac really shows its age in the tech field. You mentioned the charger. The inside of the g8 is pretty similar, just older.

Overall what I'm saying is that it's important that you understand what you're getting. A solidly built performance sedan that handles well for its size. But is very lacking in creature comforts and will not have the pep and "feel of acceleration" that the smaller german cars have. You wont feel like you're doing 75, but you will be. And that has always put a smile on my face.
 

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You might consider a used SS if you want a newer version of the G8.
 

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