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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all ... long time lurker, rarely post because .. .well, the car is pretty rock solid and is the wife's daily driver and doesn't get upgraded.

I remember a recall / TSB on the clunking front control arms, and we had the dealer do the repair under the special warranty. Now we're at 120K miles and the front clunk is back. 2009 GT

What do I need to order to replace? Thanks.
 

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These control arms are relatively minor. Unless you can see physical damage to the rubber bushes on them that's not it.

More likely it's the bump stops that are broken. They are enclosed in the top of the front strut (shock absorber).
 

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There are enough possibilities that clunk, we can't tell your for certain over the internet. Control arm bushings, any of the ball joints, endlinks, strut mounts. All need to be looked at.
 

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2009 Pontiac G8 aka Karma
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There are enough possibilities that clunk, we can't tell your for certain over the internet. Control arm bushings, any of the ball joints, endlinks, strut mounts. All need to be looked at.
This.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let me rephrase the question:

When the dealership did the special warranty front control arm replacements ... what did they replace?
 

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Seems like it depended on the dealership. Some stated all four were replaced while others said only what was worn at the time was addressed.
 

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If I remember right, the first campaign or whatever got all 4 replaced. Then the second campaign came along and you'd only get the bad ones replaced if all 4 were done in the previous one. It might have eventually just been the bad ones that replaced regardless. So there was timing and situation playing a part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, thanks, y'all.

We'll dig into it over the fall.
 

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2012 Caprice PPV Phantom Black
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Hey y'all ... long time lurker, rarely post because .. .well, the car is pretty rock solid and is the wife's daily driver and doesn't get upgraded.

I remember a recall / TSB on the clunking front control arms, and we had the dealer do the repair under the special warranty. Now we're at 120K miles and the front clunk is back. 2009 GT

What do I need to order to replace? Thanks.
I recently had a big clunk under braking on the caprice, it just rolled over 110,000. It would even jerk the wheel left. It turned out to be the forward control arm bushings were totally shot. The drivers side was 100% separated from the inner sleeve, passenger side was about 70% separated. Without getting under it with a pry bar and inspecting you won’t know for sure.

My Ion Redline had a mystery clunk since I bought it in like 2015. I’ve since upgraded the entire suspension system getting it ready for autocross, and still had the clunk, the last thing to do was sway bar bushings. And that sorted the clunk on that car. The bar was even solid with no movement with a pry bar, but under cornering load there was enough squish to let the bar just hit the frame.
 

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PBM GXP M6 Onyx/Red, 51k, stock. Sold: Original owner 09 GT PBM Onyx 70k
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My Ion Redline had a mystery clunk since I bought it in like 2015. I’ve since upgraded the entire suspension system getting it ready for autocross, and still had the clunk, the last thing to do was sway bar bushings. And that sorted the clunk on that car. The bar was even solid with no movement with a pry bar, but under cornering load there was enough squish to let the bar just hit the frame.
My Firebird had annoying suspension clunks for quite a while even though everything looked good to the naked eye. Like for you, it turned out to be sway bar bushings. Replaced one set with typical parts store neoprene product and within less than a year it was back. Polyurethane solved it for good.

G8 front LCA bushings often get the rap for going bad and causing a clunk. But the ball joints also commonly go bad. When we went through the front suspension on our GT at 70k miles, the only thing that was detectably bad was one LCA ball joint - although my friend (who owns a shop) says that bushings can be failing before the naked eye can pick up on deterioration, cracks, etc.
 

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I got mine from Rock Auto after the shop discovered they needed replacing during my oil change/inspection.

Worked out well because I had just put new tires on and got a 4 wheel alignment done at the same time.
 

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I replaced one set of lower control arms because some really odd handling. Mine was the ball joint bushings were worn out. But on a ramp and trying to shake the ball joint did nothing. Not until I had someone turn the steering wheel while the car was on ramps, I could clearly see the ball joint moving around.

I suspect the other set of controls arms are doing the same.

BTW, my sway bar endlink was bad. But it was more of a rattle vs clunk.
 

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Stock arms are of the lowest quality. (Junk). Most other replacement arms are not much better. Stock uses plastic liners in the ball joint that wear out. So does Moog. GM radius arms have Dexcool filled bushings.
Mushy, this is why in long sweeping turns you are making minor steering corrections. My personal preference is the Mevotech arms. They have Greaseable bronze bushings in the ball joints. The bushings are solid rubber for less deflection. Yes you need to paint them before the install. Small price to pay. If you really want precise steering, there are plenty of poly bushed arms.
 
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Is it really dexcool in there? Seems pretty out of the box.
 

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The clunk is generally bump stops or suspension Mount movement in the strut towers. When these cars are lowered the bump stops need to be changed and strut mounts should be changed. If this has been done please disregard my 2 cents
 
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