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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever done a full paint correction(wet sanding etc) on their G8? Had a couple of body panels repainted that I need to touch up and thinking of doing the whole car. I know the paint on these generally isn’t good or thick enough to do much but wondering if anyone has ever done it and what they used.
 

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I've never understood "paint correction." Sure, you can make the paint look better. But can whatever you put back on to protect it really last longer than the clearcoat you removed? Aren't you just going to have to do it again relatively soon, or end up with paint that looks worse than it was to begin with after a while?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes you can end up with worse paint than you started with, which is why I’m asking what people have done and what has worked. As for redoing it again, I hope to never have to again as mine is a garage queen that only gets taken out on weekends and always gets hand cleaned, and has a cover when in the garage, so I’m not planning on getting much more for scratches after this. And yes you can take away too much or all of the clear coat if you are not extremely careful, you are just going to have to find a happy medium between how much clear you are willing to take off and how it will look. That’s kind of my debate reason for posting about this.

Also, has anyone ever done paint depth on a stock factory paint g8 (I’m assuming they’re all in the same range of paint thickness). Would appreciate those numbers if someone has them.
 

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I've never understood "paint correction." Sure, you can make the paint look better. But can whatever you put back on to protect it really last longer than the clearcoat you removed? Aren't you just going to have to do it again relatively soon, or end up with paint that looks worse than it was to begin with after a while?
The point is to remove swirls and imperfections. There should still be plenty clear left and the scratches and swirl marks shouldn't return unless you're not taking care of it or washing incorrectly.
 

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I did a full body paint correction a couple years ago with cutting then finishing compound. Over time a few light marks tend to develop with normal driving and washing, but a quick touchup with finishing compound smooths it back out. Most of the time you won't even need a machine polisher for the small stuff.

I can't speak for the rest of the colors but PBM is extremely delicate. Not using high quality microfibers, chemicals, techniques, etc. will absolutely result in swirls. The only thing I haven't tried is ceramic coating due to the high cost, but it's starting to seem necessary in order to preserve the clear.

Check out Junkman on Youtube. His videos are long, but extremely informative on how to properly maintain clear.
 

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Just watch Larry Korsilla auto ammo NYC vids and be aware of who you listen too. I am a professional detailer and have seen and heard a lot of bad advice given over the last 21 years. There's a lot to know and this guy is someone I definitely recommend listening too.


Hes beyond me and anyone else who is going to comment here. I'll post his vid on buffing vs wet sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I do subscribe to Larry at Ammo, he is awesome. Guess I’ll just have to start with the least abrasive and work my way up if I need to. Just wondering if anyone has done it so I have some sort of starting place and where to work to. I’ll have to post my findings if I get that far.
 

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There’s a difference between paint correction and color sanding or wet sanding. Proper correction done with a DA buffer and proper materials and technique remove very little clear. Anything with sanding in the name goes deep and requires polishing to finish up.
Always use the least aggressive technique.
 
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