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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figured I'll start posting some details and pics so I can document my daily driver G8 build.

Current Specs:

Engine:
GMPP 6.2L LS3 block and LS3 bottom end
LS3 Oil Pan
8.7" ATI Superdamper crank pulley (10%OD)
LSA supercharger w/ stock 3.0" pulley
ZL1 Lid
LS6 Cam
LS3 Heads
Holley valve covers
90mm LS3 Throttlebody
Rotofab regular intake box with big Filter
Holden A/C bracket w/ extra idler
Stock torn Motor mounts
stock trans mount

Fuel System:
LSA injectors
G8 Fuel Pump module
AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump
-6 braided Fuel line with AN fittings

Exhaust:
ARH 1 7/8" LT headers (uncoated)
ARH 3" X-pipe
GT Mufflers

Brakes:
CTS-V2 6 piston Brembo - Yellow
ZL1 2 piece rotors
CTS-V2 4 piston Brembo - Yellow
SS rear rotors

Cooling:
Hayden twin trans cooler
ZL1 intercooler
Stock Radiator

Rubber:
Conti DWS06 245/285 on 8.5/9.5 VMR 718

Made 550whp with a leaking injector, buggered up oil system, and partially collapsed IC brick. 11° timing on 93octane.

New Build Specs:

Engine:
GMPP 6.2L LS3 block drilled for LSA Piston Squirters
Lingenfelter DOD sealing rivets
JE Forged Crank, Rods, Pistons
Melling 10355 Oil Pump
Improved Racing Oil Pan Baffle
LS3 Oil Pan
BTR Stage 2 PDS Cam
8.7" ATI Superdamper crank pulley (10%OD)
LSA supercharger and snout ported by Kong Performance
2.55" S/C Pulley
DSX S/C Idler relocator
DEI heatshield between valley plate and s/c
Gates Green S/C Belt
Gates RPM accy belt
Dedicated Motorsports Reinforced ZL1 IC Brick
ZL1 Lid
102mm Boosted Nick Williams Throttlebody
ICT block off plates for the unused ports on S/C
GMPP LS3 Boosted CNC ported heads with LS9 valves
BTR .660" Platinum Valve Springs, TI retainers
BTR Trunion kit V2
LSA valve covers
RXP dual catch can setup
4" Carbon Fiber intake elbow
Rotofab High Flow intake with big Filter
Holden A/C bracket w/ extra idler
Superpro Motor mounts
GM Revised trans mount
ZL1 Torque Converter
ARP head studs, bottom end studs, flex plate, crankbolt, SS header studs


Engine Bay:
Remote mounted Power steering reservoir at brake booster
Painless braided wire loom
DEI firewall heatshield
DEI fuel line wrap


Fuel system:
ID1050X Fuel injectors
CTS-V2 Fuel pump module and level sensor
DW300c twin 340LPH Fuel pumps
Vaporworx PWM Controller
-8 Flexible PTFE Braided Fuel line and AN fittings

Exhaust:
ARH 1 7/8" LT headers (ceramic coated)
ARH 3" X-pipe (ceramic coated)
GXP Mufflers

Brakes:
CTS-V2 6 piston Brembo - Yellow
ZL1 2 piece rotors
CTS-V2 4 piston Brembo - Yellow
SS rear rotors

Cooling:
Hayden twin trans cooler
ZL1 intercooler
Stock Radiator
LSA water pump

Powdercoated misc parts:
oil pan
timing cover
motor mount brackets
a/c bracket
alternator brackets
valve covers
steam pipe
tunnel brace
thermostat housing
s/c lid


I'll be updating this as the parts get accrued and things start going together.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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Great setup
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Engine coming together. Deburred casting lines, installed pistons squirters, and rotating assembly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rods tq'd,
Cam installed,
Chaing and sprockets installed
Clearanced the windange tray for the bottom end inner stud.
Installed ICT oil pickup tube support bracket,
lifters and pushrods installed
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Headgaskets, chromoly valve caps, rocker arms, valve covers installed,
Painted the aluminum block for some corossion protection with high temp VTH and satin clear.
Front and rear main seals installed,
Water pump and accy brackets and tensioner/idlers installed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Uploaded some progress pics.
 

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Looking great!
 

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Side note: Keep your GT mufflers. When I first did my build, I ran NA for a couple of years. The combination of heads, cam and longtube headers makes for a VERY loud car. After 2 weeks I couldn't stand it and got a set of GT mufflers. They make a world of difference and you will NOT notice any performance difference on the street where you'll be traction limited regardless of what mufflers you have on the car. When i finally went TT I had a set of muffler deletes built. I use them when on the dyno or at the track. Only takes 10 minutes to swap. I haven't used my GXP mufflers since.
181428
 

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Or QTP oval cutout on the inlet to GT muffler.
 

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Or QTP oval cutout on the inlet to GT muffler.
I love the concept and almost went that route, but it seems it's a matter of when, not if, the motors fail and you're stuck driving around with an exhaust leak until you get to spend more time and money to repair them. The fact that swapping mufflers on these cars is so easy made it an easy decision and I have no regrets. Too bad all of the electric cut outs seem to be various levels of Chinese garbage.
 

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Yea, I considered that. Had mine sometime now with any hint of issues. I keep them lubed. I believe being in the rear there is less heat - the killer of all electrical.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Side note: Keep your GT mufflers. When I first did my build, I ran NA for a couple of years. The combination of heads, cam and longtube headers makes for a VERY loud car. After 2 weeks I couldn't stand it and got a set of GT mufflers. They make a world of difference and you will NOT notice any performance difference on the street where you'll be traction limited regardless of what mufflers you have on the car. When i finally went TT I had a set of muffler deletes built. I use them when on the dyno or at the track. Only takes 10 minutes to swap. I haven't used my GXP mufflers since. View attachment 181428
I was running GXP mufflers on my ls6 cam lsa 6.2L. I took the GT ones off because it was just way too quiet. The gxp ones were just a bit louder at idle. And much nicer throughout the Rev range. They were also lighter by 8lbs. If it's obnoxious I still have my GT mufflers kicking around. Plan is currently to run the GXP mufflers at this time and I'll evaluate it once the motor is in and running. I was very surprised how quiet the inside of the car is with longtubes, no cats, X pipe and just gt/gxp mufflers on my previous lsa motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice
Are your parts chrome plated?
The headers, xpipe and a couple other pieces were ceramic coated in polished silver. I powdercoated every other part I could with a color called "super chrome". It'll help with the wonderful salty winters we have here in Michigan. Even though the parts are mostly aluminum, the corrosion/road blast here turns a nice Aluminum motor and engine bay to nasty white chalk and red rust.

This car will be my everyday car so i'm building it as robust as possible in all aspects.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Some more pics. Just about ready to drop this thing in the car.
IMAG1223.jpg
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IMAG1227.jpg
 

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Perchance the eyes are deceiving, but are you reusing at least two of the belt pulleys?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Perchance the eyes are deceiving, but are you reusing at least two of the belt pulleys?
Correct! They spin nice and free, but they've been sitting for a year, so there is a light surface rust on the wear face. I'll be cleaning them up shortly.
 

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Very nicely done
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Flexplate installed/torqued.
ZL1 Torque Converter installed.
Engine installed and started puting on accessories I had removed to make life easier.

Having left the PS pump plumbed and pushed to the side in the engine bay I didn't realize there was a detachable bracket that I missed powdercoating (just happens to be the most visible one in the engine bay too), so that got removed and off to the powdercoaters.
 

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