[barrok69]

 

[barrok69]

Then I had to tackle getting the front end all sorted out. Having a ghetto fab windshield washer reservoir on the pass side with a big HOSE to hold more fluid wasn't ideal and took up a lot of space. The ZL1 HEX had seen better days and from the looks of it the bumper support had been modified in the past. I'm also ditching the Bosch HEX pump for a Varimax unit. So re-routing will be fun.

This was the before.

 

[barrok69]

HEX comparison....

Was able to run 3/4" hoses on the new HEX instead of 5/8" on the stock zl1 unit.

stock ZL1 vs C&R

 

[barrok69]

While trying to package all the new goodies in the front end

New bigger HEX, Factory Washer reservoir/fill, Trans cooler...

Side project: repair headlights (I used Sylvania repair kit with UV protective coating $20)

Results: Stunning

 

[barrok69]

back to the front end....

Varimax mounting location found.

HEX, Trans cooler, and washer reservoir mocked up:

Brackets for trans cooler:

Rivnuts for mounting to bumper support

Center tunnel brace just came back from powdercoaters...

 

[barrok69]

New -8AN Fuel line ran from pump to engine bay. Grommets installed for the lines, rivnuts installed for the stainless steel/rubber lined hose clamps

A heavy duty protective sleeve was put over the line in the area that is contacting the body brace going up into the cowl area (not pictured, final length also not cut yet so not in final resting position)

Protective loom installed over entire fuel hose

Fuel rail connection

e85 sensor, then run down to the new hose. Fuel hose coming up hasn't been cut to length yet, but will connect to the bottom of the e85 sensor.

Some more rivnuts in the trunk to mount the Vaporworx controller

 

[barrok69]

coming together...

catch cans and some temporary HEX coolant lines...hoses everywhere........such is life.

Still can't believe the clarity of the repaired headlights

Used these nice fascia to fender brackets as the factory solution was completely blown out. Fascia isn't going anywhere.

Lower grilles installed after a nice carwash

 

[barrok69]

Happy to report it fired up first try, no frills. Sounds very healthy, cam is barely noticeable, but has subtle lump to it. GXP mufflers are awesome with this setup and the car turns lots of heads.

It's got a nice daily driver tune on it for now until the weather gets better. The fuel system is delivering plenty of fuel everywhere so no concerns from that stand point. It's still getting around 16mpg city and 25mpg highway... which is hilarious.

So far I've put over 1000miles on it and it's definitely got more get up and go than the previous LSA setup it had. She's a real ripper. Tires will need to be replaced more frequently than every season most likely. lol.

 

[GT Drew]

A well detailed build, Impressive. The Satin Clear is a good look too.

 

[barrok69]

Thanks! It took a while, but I'm happy with the results. Can't complain for my first engine build. I learned a ton.

The color of the powdercoating I used is called "SuperChrome" for those interested. All the exhaust components were Ceramic Coated and run through the tumbler to polish shiny chrome-like.

 

[JCMG8]

Reason for new fuel line? Are you running a return fuel system?
Nice work.
I recommend ditching the IC radiators, install a chiller and don't look back. So much less plumbing and works better..

 

[barrok69]

I'm currently running a returnless fuel system with CTS-V twin pump module (dual 340LPH pumps), Vaporworx etc... Using the stock hard lines wasn't an option as they were too corroded. The previous owner had ran a -6AN line in a similar fashion but in a location more prone to be subject to road blast and debris damage. So, since I was redoing the plumbing and talking to a few experts that have run big horsepower/similar setups -8AN made the most sense for the minimal cost increase over -6AN. Also protects for e85 if/when I go down that route. For now it's a 93 pump gas car. If I ever need to go to a return setup, I have some extra -8AN line I can run along side what I already did easy enough.

As far as the interchiller and the likes.. I looked long and hard at them, but decided against it due to the environment the car lives in. Winters gets down to -20F at times and summers don't usually peak over 100F. The benefit of the chiller would be great if I was running at a dragstrip repeatedly, but I'm not doing that. This is a daily/WINTER driven street car.

The IAT's have been fine with the upgraded hex, hex pump, bigger hoses and increased fluid volume. It has made a significant difference over the previous setup. While the car is idling, the ZL1 lid is cool to the touch just in ambient 70F degree weather. It only gets cooler when driving and air is blowing through the HEX. It's quite impressive. The other factor was the windshield washer reservoir gets deleted with all the chiller setups I've seen, which isn't acceptable for my application. There are also times when I drive with the windows down and HVAC off, so that isn't very good for the chiller setup either (effectively turns it off). The A/C also turns off when doing WOT pulls, so the chiller is really only about recovery time which even with the stock ZL1 HEX that was in there before, never had any issues in the summer while doing spirited driving and it having to pull any timing.

#1 priority for this build was daily drivability, reliability. So a lot of decision were made based on that factor. It's not an all out race car, otherwise I would have taken a different approach to a lot of the areas.

I'm curious to see how the new engine performs on the dyno once a bit more WOT tuning has been done on it. The previous "stock LSA" setup was making 550whp with a compromised oiling system (bearings were going, oil pickup full of silicone), broken piston ringland, and leaking injector, so there should be some serious uplift with the parts that are now in it. Butt dyno says at least 20more HP. haha

 

[JCMG8]

Interesting. I'm in similar climate, car is dormant in winter. I did get bit by the 1320 bug a few years back, car does see track few times a year. At least with the PnP chiller, I believe you can keep the squirt tank as the chiller mounts to the frame rail. I was running a ZL1/CTSV rad and gt500 rad for cooling which sacrificed the tank. Since it's a summer car, have not missed the squirts (yet) in several years but is on my list to put back in.
I admit, riding with windows open and AC on -

If it works for you, all that counts. My zl1/gt500 combo worked fine.

 

[PONY MAN]

Nice build and the Super Chrome was a great choice. Curious to see dyno numbers s well. Be safe.

 

[MGMGXP]

 

[Barry09GT]

Great job, that looks awesome! Do you know if it is 6n connections that go into the factor fuel rails? I'm trying to build a little 8" section to replace the brittle one under the hood.

 

[barrok69]

Great job, that looks awesome! Do you know if it is 6n connections that go into the factor fuel rails? I'm trying to build a little 8" section to replace the brittle one under the hood.

I believe stock is around -6AN for the LSA rails. Not sure about L76 fuel rails. Never had any on this car.

 

[barrok69]

Was a nice warm day and decided to take a quick idle walkaround video. Car still needs to be deep cleaned from winter.

G8 idle video

Enjoy. Headphone users beware.

 

[Barry09GT]

Was a nice warm day and decided to take a quick idle walkaround video. Car still needs to be deep cleaned from winter.

G8 idle video

Enjoy. Headphone users beware.

Sounds awesome!

 

[PONY MAN]

Am a bit jealous as the remote start on the former G8 was finicky due to a random check engine code. Code will appear. Clear itself. Then reappear days later. Somewhat believe it could have been the starter, but never got around to replacing it. Excellent to read/see/hear the build come to fruition.