[topher455]

I was able to get my car solidly into the 12's (see sig) after a lot of tuning to optimize my combo for the new 3.27 Camaro diff. Previously the best I could do was 13.1 and that was in feb when the da was much better.

I was able to cut my 60' from a 2.08 to a 1.96 which is great IMO based on what I've seen around here. So here is my question for those who are running faster: Given my suspension mods:

trailing arms
toe rods
diff bushings
cradle bushings

Do you think there is more speed left in the car that can be had by cutting the 60' or am I pretty well maxed out? My best times were with TC on but I have modified the settings extensively to make it work very well.

I was considering a rear sway bar and possibly rear springs and struts? But Im open to input. Thanks!!

 

[Troy Trackbeast]

Congrats on reaching your goals man! I think to get any more off your 60' you are going to need a drag radial and launch it hard with TC off. Possibly switching to skinnies up front, may cut some more off. I think the suspension may have a little do do with it but then again I'm on all stock stuff, and I'm not a suspension guru (I'm subd for when they arrive). Id love to have those 3.27's though!!!


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[topher455]

Thanks!!

These times are with nitto 555 street tires 285 40 18. I was spinning a bit on the launch and 1-2 shift. The car also got about 1 cycle of wheel hop on the 1-2. Im thinking that is why the TC helped. My runs without TC were 12.91.

I have since softened the wot 1-2 slightly in hopes of getting that part under control. I just wasnt sure if there was any "low hanging fruit" left in the rear suspension to help shave off another tenth or so. Im currently developing a vortech blower kit with a v-1 s-trim so Im just trying to maximize the current setup before I go FI

Thanks for the input!

 

[topher455]

Oh and yes I love the 3.27's! While the gearing isnt ideal since it puts me into 4th around the 1000' mark on a stock longblock, they are great for making the car all around more fun to drive on the stock stall without any negative drawbacks to drivability.

 

[GT Drew]

If you have one last wiggle area in the rear suspension it could be the upper control arm rear bushing. The bushing in the knuckle could also be the source. You covered the major ones

 

[matt82]

FWIW my best times have always been with the car shifting into 4th around the 1000' mark.

Out of curiosity what did you change with the TC? I have HP tuners and dabble a little. I've seen that you can disable/enable fuel, spark etc. Can you actually modify anything else?Right now without street tires TC is the only way I can hook.

 

[BMR Sales]

Really the only other bushings you could mess with on the rear would be the rear upper control arm bushing like GT Drew said and the outer trailing arm bushing. With the 60ft times you are running I honestly don't see you gaining too much time-wise from them but it would solidify the last areas of potential movement in teh rear of the car. I think for you to get any better 60ft times you would need to go with a better tire and/or a torque converter. For the mods you have you should be very happy with times.

 

[topher455]

If you have one last wiggle area in the rear suspension it could be the upper control arm rear bushing. The bushing in the knuckle could also be the source. You covered the major ones

Great! Thanks for the info. I must have missed your reply.

FWIW my best times have always been with the car shifting into 4th around the 1000' mark.

Out of curiosity what did you change with the TC? I have HP tuners and dabble a little. I've seen that you can disable/enable fuel, spark etc. Can you actually modify anything else?Right now without street tires TC is the only way I can hook.

Yea but you have a stall

Yes that is what you need to modify. The application of the tc.

Really the only other bushings you could mess with on the rear would be the rear upper control arm bushing like GT Drew said and the outer trailing arm bushing. With the 60ft times you are running I honestly don't see you gaining too much time-wise from them but it would solidify the last areas of potential movement in teh rear of the car. I think for you to get any better 60ft times you would need to go with a better tire and/or a torque converter. For the mods you have you should be very happy with times.

Hey thanks Kyle. Just wanted to make sure Im getting the most possible out of the car before the next upgrade!!

 

[topher455]

Hey Kyle, other than the two bushings you listed what would be my next logical step in my bmr parts artillery? Sway bars? LCA's?

Also will the front sway bar hurt my launch at the track? With regard to weight transfer?

Thanks!!

 

[BMR Sales]

Hey Kyle, other than the two bushings you listed what would be my next logical step in my bmr parts artillery? Sway bars? LCA's?

Also will the front sway bar hurt my launch at the track? With regard to weight transfer?

Thanks!!

If this is a car you drive regularly I would probably recommend the sway bars because they will change up the feel of the car (for the better) and increase the handling and fun factor. The stiffer BMR rear sway bar will help with better and more consistent launches at the track too. I honestly don't see the BMR front sway bar hurting you anymore than the factory sway bar you still have on the car and I would recommend doing both the front and rear sway bars at the same time because it will insure that you have that nice balanced feel.

Kyle

 

[topher455]

Great! Ill be getting the sway bars then!!

 

[topher455]

I just realized I havent changed my sig yet!! LOL fixed