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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since tick performance is having a black friday sale I was looking at the monster S series twin disc clutch kit w/slave cylinder and have some questions....

Is this a good replacement clutch? Would not want any chatter, more pedal effort would be good though. What would be the benefits over the single disc and how does the single disc compare to stock (not seeing one available for the GXP though). I'm not drag racing or doing heavy launches... pretty much normal driving with an occasional romp.

Regarding the flywheel, is this a 6 bolt? Also what would the lighter flywheel ($100 more) offer?

I would get the remote bleeder for sure, don't see an option on the pilot bearing/bushing but I'll call tomorrow
 

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Monster's LT1-S drives like factory. It's a solid choice. Don't bother with the lightweight flywheel for normal use, it's just added cost that isn't going to net you anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Monster's LT1-S drives like factory. It's a solid choice. Don't bother with the lightweight flywheel for normal use, it's just added cost that isn't going to net you anything.
I've looked a few times but can't find a listing for the LT1-S for the GXP but do see the S series. Is that the same clutch? I did find some C6 listings though. I'll call around Monday and see as that does sound like a good option. Otherwise I'll go ls7.
 

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I've looked a few times but can't find a listing for the LT1-S for the GXP but do see the S series. Is that the same clutch? I did find some C6 listings though. I'll call around Monday and see as that does sound like a good option. Otherwise I'll go ls7.
Yea, looks like they changed the naming scheme in their lineup. The S series has the same specs and looks identical to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea, looks like they changed the naming scheme in their lineup. The S series has the same specs and looks identical to mine.
Thanks, My only concern is if there is ANY chatter... I can engage the stock clutch slowly at idle and it moves the car smoothly (not that I do it very often), but on the other hand don't want to have to rev the car more than slightly to get going smoothly.
 

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Thanks, My only concern is if there is ANY chatter... I can engage the stock clutch slowly at idle and it moves the car smoothly (not that I do it very often), but on the other hand don't want to have to rev the car more than slightly to get going smoothly.
None that I've noticed. I've been using this clutch since 2018 and put 30k miles on it. I do a lot of stop and go in Atlanta as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
None that I've noticed. I've been using this clutch since 2018 and put 30k miles on it. I do a lot of stop and go in Atlanta as well.
Thanks... Does monster make their own slave cylinder or is it a GM one? Have you had any low pedal issues and do you still need to bleed the system often similar to the stock unit?
 

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Thanks... Does monster make their own slave cylinder or is it a GM one? Have you had any low pedal issues and do you still need to bleed the system often similar to the stock unit?
It's the GM one but Monster does machine a billet release bearing support for it which I highly recommend. It's super easy to take apart the slave cylinder and install. You don't want to have to pull the trans out later because the plastic support came apart.

I did have low pedal issues prior to doing my clutch install. When I did mine however, I replaced EVERYTHING. The master cylinder was replaced with a Tick adjustable. It behaves quite a bit different than the factory master cylinder with very little pedal movement needed between fully engaged and fully disengaged. I last bled the system in June of 2020, 16k miles ago, and I haven't had any issues with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's the GM one but Monster does machine a billet release bearing support for it which I highly recommend. It's super easy to take apart the slave cylinder and install. You don't want to have to pull the trans out later because the plastic support came apart.

I did have low pedal issues prior to doing my clutch install. When I did mine however, I replaced EVERYTHING. The master cylinder was replaced with a Tick adjustable. It behaves quite a bit different than the factory master cylinder with very little pedal movement needed between fully engaged and fully disengaged. I last bled the system in June of 2020, 16k miles ago, and I haven't had any issues with it.
Thanks... I was wondering about the slave since both monster and tick sell it but there is quite a price difference between the two so I was thinking they may be different? I was planning on the billet bearing support and watched a video on changing that which looks pretty simple. The master cylinder on the other hand is staying put as that just looks like a complete pain in the ass and I don't think any effort would be saved doing it now versus a later date. Have a lot going on with the car (heads, cam, lifters etc... all gaskets) and of course the clutch. Has 120k on the OEM clutch and was just starting to slip a little shifting to second at higher rpms.

Did you replace the pilot bushing/bearing? Looks to be a couple of choices there... I'll try the packing with bread approach on removal as that looks to work well.
 

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Did you replace the pilot bushing/bearing? Looks to be a couple of choices there... I'll try the packing with bread approach on removal as that looks to work well.
Yea, a new one came with the clutch kit. I used a pilot bearing removal tool from one of the parts stores tool loaner program to remove the old one.
 

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Ok , you never want the do the pack it with anything removal on an LS.
Some if not all the pilot bores go right through and are capped with a plug.
You could run the risk of blowing that plug into the oil pan.
Throw out , while not on my G8 , I have used one of Tiltons offerings on many cars and am sold on them.
Never been a fan of a big spring pushing the throwout up against the fingers all the time.
Not an an issue with a sub 7000 RPM street car but the bearings fly apart with great regularity with high rev use.
Take that for what it is worth.
 

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Randum internet photos showing
The plug in place
The plug " removed"
Bread inside the engine.

As I said , I am not positive an 09 LS3 is this type but you don't want to find out the hard way.

Rim Gas Circle Automotive tire Automotive wheel system
Hand Gesture Finger Thumb Wood
Motor vehicle Gas Machine Auto part Cuisine
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I guess I won't try the bread method ;)

I'll be doing this on 12" speed ramps with a low profile trans jack. Right now I have the engine mounts raised with a block of wood for when I removed the oil pan, just placed the pan back on with a couple bolts to keep things semi-covered up. I'm thinking I'll need to remove the blocks from the motor mounts to get enough access to the linkage and trans bolts, however I'm not sure how the linkage comes off and need to research that.

For now a couple questions... how to you remove the cooler lines from the black plastic retaining clips without breaking anything? Do you remove the clips with the lines or remove the lines from the clips?

How do you disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder and at what point (trans still in or?)

I'll be going slow and hopefully get to it this week.

Any tips suggestions are welcomed!

Should get the clutch ordered tomorrow although yesterday it was $200 off at monster (grrrr!). The slave cylinder is $429 on monster and $303 on tick (would they be the same part?) so I think I'll just order everything from tick unless I find some cyber Monday deals. I'll also check g8only as I'll be getting gaskets, timing set and lifters there.

Still in disassembly mode and one day hopefully will reach assembly mode!
 

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I see mention of a low pedal issue. This is the thing where the clutch pedal doesn't come all the way back after 'spirited' driving, correct?
Yes

For now a couple questions... how to you remove the cooler lines from the black plastic retaining clips without breaking anything? Do you remove the clips with the lines or remove the lines from the clips?
I'm kind of fuzzy on the details for this one, but I think I just unbolted the entire clip assembly so I wouldn't have to remove the hoses from them. I know that kind of stuff is getting brittle, I recently broke both tabs that hold the lines into the radiator fan shroud when I had to replace a fan blade and motor. They just snapped right off with very little pressure.

How do you disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder and at what point (trans still in or?)
There's a little retainer that fits in the slot of the black plastic hose that goes to the slave cylinder, kind of like a c clip, it holds the hose in that comes from the master cylinder. I disconnected mine before dropping the trans, I don't think there's enough slack to do it otherwise. It's also a PITA getting that clip off in the limited amount of room between the trans and body.

The slave cylinder is $429 on monster and $303 on tick (would they be the same part?)
Yea, they're the same part
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yea, they're the same part
Monster site has the same (S2-9524-GXP - Monster S Series Twin Disc Clutch - G8 GXP) listed at different prices, yesterday was $200 off, earlier today, list price, then recently $200 off although it is listed at $1,034 and $954 so I ordered the $954 with the 24lb flywheel, invoice shows no tax and free shipping, but I would think taxes may be added? Ordered the slave cylinder, billet release and speedbleeder from tick for $411 as they had a black friday sale on the billet release and speedbleeder. Tick charged tax but have free shipping with team tick.

Thanks for your input and comments!
 
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Some vendors only charge tax if you live in a state they have a physical presence, in Monster's case that's Texas. Others will charge you your local sales tax rate, regardless of where you are in relation to them. I believe they are all supposed to being doing the latter but until a company gets big enough for the IRS to notice (like RockAuto and eBay), they can usually get away with not charging it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Some vendors only charge tax if you live in a state they have a physical presence, in Monster's case that's Texas. Others will charge you your local sales tax rate, regardless of where you are in relation to them. I believe they are all supposed to being doing the latter but until a company gets big enough for the IRS to notice (like RockAuto and eBay), they can usually get away with not charging it.
Well I'm certainly not complaining, was probably one of the only times I can recall no tax is charged. I'll see once it's shipped from monster if they add tax as sometimes they just don't have accurate tax rates since every city/county can differ within a state as well as state variances.
 

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I have been using these:
GM 24255748 (Clutch disk and PP)
LUK LFW191 (Flywheel)
I used the stock GXP slave + Monster release bearing support

The clutch disk and PP is what came in the Commodore VE II (2010+) and is the Holden official fix for the clutch pedal not coming back up. I had the TSB at some point, found it on some Commodore forums. That TSB was never published for US/Canada.
The flywheel is just some OE equivalent LS flywheel.

I have not changed the clutch fluid in 10000+ miles and about 2 years and the pedal has not stayed down once.
It's easy to drive and so far is still working well.
I'm on stock power levels though - a Roto-Fab and a Solo cat-back don't add much :)

I had the Monster LT1-S briefly, I didn't like it and sold it. The friction point was very narrow in my case and it was hard to take off smoothly. I was having other drivetrain issues at the time which I didn't realize yet so I don't broadcast my opinion much as it might not be very representative...
 
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