Clay can be used to remove hard water spots. It's one of the first things that I would use.... So you know, the clay isn't to remove the water spots but to help remove any wax that has been left over from previous applications.
Polishing or compounding will remove any wax on the paint. It is better to remove it first with a good washing with Dawn first but the wax isn't going to stop the compound or polish from doing what it does.This is to allow the polish or compound to work better.
Any tips or products to prevent water spots in the first place?Clay can be used to remove hard water spots. It's one of the first things that I would use.
Polishing or compounding will remove any wax on the paint. It is better to remove it first with a good washing with Dawn first but the wax isn't going to stop the compound or polish from doing what it does.
In 20 years as a professional detailer..
Yes. If you keep a solid layer of sealant, wax or both on your car, water spots can't attach themselves to the clear coat and etch into your finish. I show that in this video that I did where hard water spots have been sitting on my paint for months. The video is actually about water restricted washing but I show and talk about the hard water spots. Watch how easy they are removed.Any tips or products to prevent water spots in the first place?
I've been fooling with automotive finishes since the late 70's. My father painted cars for 40 years and a lot of what I know came from him and experience. I have used clay on plenty occasions to not only remove hard water spots from paint, but also glass. Clay comes in more than just consumer grade but consumer grade clay can work wonders.Clay does not remove hard water spots unless maybe they are fresh or its something else. In 20 years as a professional detailer I have had very little luck with just clay bar. He can try and I'd do the step anyway to remove any other contaminants and wax
Incorrect. Do you think that any wax or sealant on the market today is HARDER than clear coat? Compounds and polishes SHAVE layers of clear coat off the car. If you put a polisher with a compound or polish on some freshly waxed or one month old waxed car, that compound or polish is going to IMMEDIATELY remove that wax. There is no wax invented that will stand up to ONE BUFFING CYCLE of compound or wax.As for removing wax before you compound or polish. When you wax a car it creates a slick coating over said surface . When you buff over that kind of a surface it doesn't allow the compound to attach to the paint and wont be as effective. Will it never work.?No. But it helps.
The problem with you statement is that not everyone has the same experience as you. I have had a lot of luck with clay. It is ALWAYS the first step I take because it is the LEAST aggressive. So just because YOU haven't had much luck with it doesn't mean that others haven't. A lot of the luck that you have with water spots and clay depends on how quickly you address the issue.Yes , you are correct. There are other grades of clay bar other than the over the counter stuff. I assume the op and most others will be using over the counter grade clay and with that said. It most likely will not work. Like i said, I have had luck but not always.
Uhhhh.... I never said anything about that video or how anything was done in it. I didn't even watch it.In the past I was not aware of how important it is to remove all the wax on a vehicle but after watching the second video I posted , it seems to make sense. I'm sorry if you disagree with them but given thier level of expertise in detailing, I'm gonna listen to what they say.
The more aggressive grades of clay can only be found at body shop supply stores. I usually get mine at either my local Mirror Glaze distributor or my local PPG paint shop. Problem is, you are going to need to either do some paint correction after using it or if you get TOO aggressive, you are going to need to do some wet sanding. Wet sanding is somewhat of an art and I would never suggest you try it without being experienced at it. But once you know what you are doing, you can make it look real easy.Please post up where we might find some non-consumer grade clay. What is its nomenclature? How are the different grades referred to?