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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have CTS-V 4 piston calipers with the hawks ceramic pads and slotted and driller rotors... These things have begin to squill something awful! On hot days its right away but on cool days once brake temp gets up. I can not get in touch with anyone at hawks that will help me out. Anyone have this problem or have a fix? The rotors themselves have very little wear and just a slight texture. I obviously cant have them turned but I am on the verge of just putting the high end GM pads back on and seeing if that fixes my problem.
 

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squealing when braking or just the clunk/squeal when you take it out of park in the morning? i've had hawk ceramics and powerslots for a few weeks and have a little noise when pulling out of park first thing in the morning. I actually cured most of this by putting the gel the back of the inside pad where it contacts the pistons like the directions recommend (the packet that came with your brakes). If you have a noise while driving you might have bent some brake hardware. I did that too. if you have a squeal when stopping then something is wrong. Did you make sure you put the pads on the correct side? there is an inside and outside pad. But there will be noise with ceramics, they dust less but are noisier than the hps. slotted rotors increase this noise, but it should never be a squeal.

i dont have cts calipers so i cant help you if that's the deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is the way I bought the car so i did not do any of the work myself. Apparently the pads had to be trimmed on the bottom side to accomedate the G8 rotors. Its a squill while breaking and at a low speed. I will pull it apart tonight and see what I find. Just looking to see if this was a common problem.
 

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I just did Dba rotors and hawk ceramic pads. The wife has been complaining about them squeaking as well. 2 70-30 slow downs did the trick to bed them a little better.
 

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i've never heard anything about trimming the pads, but tank brings up a good point as well. make sure you follow the bedding procedure. I think it's 4 or 5 moderate stops 40 and then 2 good hard stops from 30. it's on their website. ceramics are notorious for taking some miles to really bite well.
 

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I did the DBA/ Hawk upgrade when I bought my V calipers, and I love them. The only time I get any noise is when they are wet after leaving a car wash, right before the car comes to a complete stop.

MAKE SURE YOU BED THEM IN PROPERLY! This is the most important thing you can do for new brakes. Also, if you are running the Brembo calipers on stock rotors, buy a new set of rotors that fit the application. Slotted rotors will help keep the pads clean and limit any brake noise, but they do dust more - like a LOT more.

If you bought the car with the brakes on it, have the rotors turned just enough to clean them up, and then follow the bedding procedure. That should take care of most of it, and give you the opportunity to check out the other hardware while you're in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did the DBA/ Hawk upgrade when I bought my V calipers, and I love them. The only time I get any noise is when they are wet after leaving a car wash, right before the car comes to a complete stop.

MAKE SURE YOU BED THEM IN PROPERLY! This is the most important thing you can do for new brakes. Also, if you are running the Brembo calipers on stock rotors, buy a new set of rotors that fit the application. Slotted rotors will help keep the pads clean and limit any brake noise, but they do dust more - like a LOT more.

If you bought the car with the brakes on it, have the rotors turned just enough to clean them up, and then follow the bedding procedure. That should take care of most of it, and give you the opportunity to check out the other hardware while you're in there.
I called a few places around here and no one wants to turn slotted rotors. But after getting in touch with HAWKS the guy assured me the pads should not be making this noise if they were bed in correctly. His suggestion was to sand the rotors with 130 grit paper and start the bed in procedure. I was able to get in touch with the previous owner and the rotors used were camaro front rotors and HSV in the rear. If i go changing rotors I will have to buy new caliper location brackets :( oh well Ill try the bed in procedure and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
should you change rotor when you change pads ,what is a good pad to use on gt[/QUOT

I would like to change rotors with my new pads since I cant have them turned but because they are expensive I will be taking a chance. If your rotors can be turned and they are not below the minimum thickness then always turn rotors with new pads to help insure pad life. If they cant be turned or they are already to thin then replacing is the next best option. I have talked to a few people and a lot have suggested the Hawks ceramic pads.
 

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Turning drilled/ slotted rotors is just like turning standard rotors. There is no difference in the machine set up or function. O'Reilly's around here will do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Turning drilled/ slotted rotors is just like turning standard rotors. There is no difference in the machine set up or function. O'Reilly's around here will do it.
I would have expected that the drilled/slotted rotors would be turned the same way but the few places I called in my town said it could not be done. Maybe it was their lack of experience or lack of knowledge. But of course I live in a small town where performance cars are very rare. The only other G8's belong to a old lady and a middle aged nurse...
 

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mine sound like a way nastier pad when its warm outside... they also dust like hell, as bad or worse than the Ferodo2000's that came stock on my cobalt turbo.

if you're actually using using the benefits of the slotted rotors and all then you need new rotors every time usually... when you turn them you're dropping mass and that makes the rotor get to temp faster which means your brakes fade faster and eventually you boil the fluid faster... I've never turned a rotor on any car i've owned, always replaced them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
mine sound like a way nastier pad when its warm outside... they also dust like hell, as bad or worse than the Ferodo2000's that came stock on my cobalt turbo.

if you're actually using using the benefits of the slotted rotors and all then you need new rotors every time usually... when you turn them you're dropping mass and that makes the rotor get to temp faster which means your brakes fade faster and eventually you boil the fluid faster... I've never turned a rotor on any car i've owned, always replaced them.
Street use just for looks, turning wont matter. If I was racing I agree that you dont need to lose the depth of your slots or rotor mass. If you are needing to turn rotors for a breaking vibration or deep groves you need to replace. But if its just to put new pads like my case I just want a clean surface so very little material will be taken off
 
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