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Is there a write up or how to on replacing the front and rear brake pads on the G8?
Not doing anything with the rotors is kind of the half-assed way to do a brake job.
A. There is still old transfer material on the rotor face
B. The rotor is going to have grooves that will reduce stopping power
C. The rotor isn't true. Might not feel a pulsation, but easier to turn it while its apart.
D. Huge lip for on outer edge that ends up causing a squeak.
Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.
This guys was too cheap to buy rotors and halfway through the second set of pads the rotors were so pitted and developing rust that they started falling apart.
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Nope. Old body style (2000-2006) HD GM in the rust belt. They all end up looking like that. But when they look like that and you just put pads on it, only exacerbates things. Started out with small nicks and chips. Then he put a set of pads on it with no rotors. The new pads just kept chewing up the rusted rotors.That guy had more issues than that, this rotor definitely had a stuck caliper and developed some serious heat to make the rotor look like that?
The caliper bolts are supposedly TTY, but I've reused them a couple of time already with no issues.Do our cars have some bolts that you aren't supposed to re-use?
My girlfriend's 07 Civic is on it's 3rd set of pads, but still original rotors. The rotors have never been turned either. 125,XXX km on it and no pulsation.Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.
I've done all four on my 2004 2500. The new rotors probably weighed a couple pounds more than the old ones. Had to knock them off with a hammer and the rust never stopped falling out!Nope. Old body style (2000-2006) HD GM in the rust belt. They all end up looking like that. But when they look like that and you just put pads on it, only exacerbates things. Started out with small nicks and chips. Then he put a set of pads on it with no rotors. The new pads just kept chewing up the rusted rotors.
Not doing anything with the rotors is kind of the half-assed way to do a brake job.
A. There is still old transfer material on the rotor face
B. The rotor is going to have grooves that will reduce stopping power
C. The rotor isn't true. Might not feel a pulsation, but easier to turn it while its apart.
D. Huge lip for on outer edge that ends up causing a squeak.
Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.
This guys was too cheap to buy rotors and halfway through the second set of pads the rotors were so pitted and developing rust that they started falling apart.
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Mine lasted about 100k miles, turned them once due to pulsing. I changed pads between race pads and street pads for track events eight times with no issues except I got the race pads hot once and had material transfer to the rotors which is why I had to turn them. I went through three sets of street pads in that time. I haven't changed out the bolts either as they seem fine to me.Well next time I'll change them.