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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a write up or how to on replacing the front and rear brake pads on the G8?
 

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I'm sure there is somewhere, but it's very easy. Pull the bottom caliper bolt, lift up, pull out old pads, check for problems, clean anything that needs it, compress the pistons and put in new pads. Make sure the brackets aren't cracked or bent. Slide the caliper back down over the rotor. Retighten everything, pump the brakes to reingage the pistons and your done.

There is nothing special about the brakes and are some of the easiest to service IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I'm not too worried just looking for something to make it a little easier.
 

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there really is no difference in this car than any other so look on youtube and that might help you feel better. Just be sure you put the correct pad on the inside. The inside pad on each wheel will have the metal wear tab. Putting it on the outside will result in problems. Basically just duplicate what you see when you take the original pads out. Should probably do rotors or at least have them turned while you're in there. Especially if you're getting some steering wheel vibration when stopping.
 

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Go to "installuniversity.com" look at the 4th gen F-body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got the front ones done. Wasn't bad. And the rotors are fine and I didn't feel like doing all that more work in the heat.
 

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Not doing anything with the rotors is kind of the half-assed way to do a brake job.

A. There is still old transfer material on the rotor face
B. The rotor is going to have grooves that will reduce stopping power
C. The rotor isn't true. Might not feel a pulsation, but easier to turn it while its apart.
D. Huge lip for on outer edge that ends up causing a squeak.

Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.

This guys was too cheap to buy rotors and halfway through the second set of pads the rotors were so pitted and developing rust that they started falling apart.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Replaced all the pads. Might do rotors next time.
 

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i think his point was, you're halfway there. They might be 2 hard to break free bolts and the rotor might be rusted on good to the hub, but that's all thats needed to do the rotors while you're in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well next time I'll change them.
 

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Not doing anything with the rotors is kind of the half-assed way to do a brake job.

A. There is still old transfer material on the rotor face
B. The rotor is going to have grooves that will reduce stopping power
C. The rotor isn't true. Might not feel a pulsation, but easier to turn it while its apart.
D. Huge lip for on outer edge that ends up causing a squeak.

Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.

This guys was too cheap to buy rotors and halfway through the second set of pads the rotors were so pitted and developing rust that they started falling apart.


That guy had more issues than that, this rotor definitely had a stuck caliper and developed some serious heat to make the rotor look like that?
 

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That guy had more issues than that, this rotor definitely had a stuck caliper and developed some serious heat to make the rotor look like that?
Nope. Old body style (2000-2006) HD GM in the rust belt. They all end up looking like that. But when they look like that and you just put pads on it, only exacerbates things. Started out with small nicks and chips. Then he put a set of pads on it with no rotors. The new pads just kept chewing up the rusted rotors.
 

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Do our cars have some bolts that you aren't supposed to re-use?
The caliper bolts are supposedly TTY, but I've reused them a couple of time already with no issues.
 

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Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.
My girlfriend's 07 Civic is on it's 3rd set of pads, but still original rotors. The rotors have never been turned either. 125,XXX km on it and no pulsation.
 

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for a write up check out wikiauto, scroll to the bottom click on #23 Pontiac G8 Front Disc Brake Pads Replace. Once you're there click on navigate up to ... Pontiac G8 2008-2009 Maintenance, Service Instructions, and Manuals and you'll find the rears there
 

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Nope. Old body style (2000-2006) HD GM in the rust belt. They all end up looking like that. But when they look like that and you just put pads on it, only exacerbates things. Started out with small nicks and chips. Then he put a set of pads on it with no rotors. The new pads just kept chewing up the rusted rotors.
I've done all four on my 2004 2500. The new rotors probably weighed a couple pounds more than the old ones. Had to knock them off with a hammer and the rust never stopped falling out!
 

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Not doing anything with the rotors is kind of the half-assed way to do a brake job.

A. There is still old transfer material on the rotor face
B. The rotor is going to have grooves that will reduce stopping power
C. The rotor isn't true. Might not feel a pulsation, but easier to turn it while its apart.
D. Huge lip for on outer edge that ends up causing a squeak.

Believe me, I do this every day. I have NEVER seen a rotor that makes it through 2 sets of pads completely.

This guys was too cheap to buy rotors and halfway through the second set of pads the rotors were so pitted and developing rust that they started falling apart.


Im with you... I turn rotors every time. I have a great shop that takes off as little material as possible while still getting them flat and true. Rotors last me 125k+ miles on all my cars, even the ones I take to the track.
 

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Well next time I'll change them.
Mine lasted about 100k miles, turned them once due to pulsing. I changed pads between race pads and street pads for track events eight times with no issues except I got the race pads hot once and had material transfer to the rotors which is why I had to turn them. I went through three sets of street pads in that time. I haven't changed out the bolts either as they seem fine to me.
 
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