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2008 G8 GT
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1,430 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
. . . by being a cheap-ass and using this same worn out piece of like imitation ShamWow when drying my car.

I'm a cheap ass when it comes to some things, and not having a proper microfiber drying cloth dedicated to drying my car, while not the worst thing, taught me a good lesson. I did just order a new Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave and a new lambskin wash mitt so I'll be good to go for a while.

I had polished my car with a rotary and Meguiars Ultimate Compound and had my clearcoat in great shape. A coat or 2 of RejeX and my car was protected for the winter.

I always use a 2 bucket wash method and wipe and dry in one direction and not in circles like the Karate Kid, still, because I was using the awful worn out from years of use imitation ShamWow, I had swirled my clearcoat up.

I spent about 3 hours buffing the car out and it is back to looking great as my car is Panther Black Metallic and the swirls were really standing out in the sun. In a way, seeing the clearcoat go from all swirled up to nice and clear is nice if not a lot of work with the Harbor Freight Rotary I have. It is heavy but as I'm still in pretty good shape it was feeling light.
 

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09 SBM G8 GT
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261 Posts
good job, what kind of compound and pad did you use to get the swirls out, i think this weekend i may wash, claybar, buff, wax and polish, i just need to go get a rotary and find out what kind of pad to use. If theres any secrets, i need to know those too lol as this will be my first time and i dont wanna burn through the clearcoat lol
 

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2008 G8 GT
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1,430 Posts
I used this, Meguiars Ultimate Compound;

meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g17216-ultimate-compound/

I used this black 3M polishing pad;

autogeek.net/3m-polishing-foam-pad.html

I just use the slowest speed on the rotary and make a bunch of passes up and down, left and right. The ultimate compound and foam pad are very forgiving that it is hard to screw it up.
 

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09 SBM G8 GT
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261 Posts
ahh gotcha! Thanks for the tip! hope this works, really wanna knock out those swirl mark, they suck, might just wait til next winter while its stored to get the front bumper repainted..to costly to do every year lol
 

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2008 G8 GT
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1,430 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have a inline filter for your car washing water supply?

I typically don't dry my car....drive around 90 for a min or two and she's dry :)
No, no filter system for the garden hose at all.

I typically even wash my car all that much it is just that I had the time to do it recently.
 

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I've come to realize that washing and drying the car with whatever will put small scratches on the car. Especially with black. So I've returned to using the california water blade again to get most of the water off and just using minimal wipes to get the rest.
 

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2008 G8 GT
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1,430 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've come to realize that washing and drying the car with whatever will put small scratches on the car. Especially with black. So I've returned to using the california water blade again to get most of the water off and just using minimal wipes to get the rest.
Does that blade really not scratch? I thought if anything it would be the worst thing ever.
 

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It's a really soft rubber. I wash it off before I use it on the car. All the swirl marks on my car are cicular (ie.. mimics the wiping motion of the cloth). I haven't seen any long straight scratches consistent from using the water blade
 

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09 SBM G8 GT
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261 Posts
in these cold month i take it to the local Delta Sonic..terrible hand dryers swirls, when i wash it i use the blade, and no swirls come from that, its a really nice tool to dry.
 

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I always get swirls in the winter, just so hard not to get them with the salt/road grime build up. I just have to do a nice polish job every spring and it's all better!
 

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2008 G8 GT
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1,430 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I always get swirls in the winter, just so hard not to get them with the salt/road grime build up. I just have to do a nice polish job every spring and it's all better!

Hmmm, that makes sense as all the stuff on the car just has to scratch it some when washing no matter what is done/what methods/products are used.

I am glad that I have a rotary and can clear it all up on my own as the car is looking fine now.
 

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General comments: Don't start into the world of polishing cars with a rotory. Start with a dual-action random orbital (DA) like a Porter Cable, Griots, or the like. A rotory can inflict serious harm very quickly if you don't know what you're doing. A DA is more than sufficient for personal use, and many professionals use DA's for finishing after they've done initial compounding with a rotory.

I'm not a fan of the water blade either; too easy to get a small piece of debris caught in between it and the paint. Even if you're careful, all it takes is once...
 

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While there's certainly the chance of getting something caught in a towel and scratching the paint, the chances of damage are lessened due to the nap of the towel potentially trapping the debris. Different strokes for different folks (use what works for you), but in my experience, even religiously cleaning the edge of a blade still results in scratches.
 

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2008 GT
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I've come to realize that washing and drying the car with whatever will put small scratches on the car. Especially with black. So I've returned to using the california water blade again to get most of the water off and just using minimal wipes to get the rest.
I use a blade on my black cars as well, black G8 and Black TBSS, works great. I wipe it clean before every use and so far no scratches...from the blade. I'm pretty fussy come spring time about buffing and waxing my cars so that I don't have to worry about them much the rest of the summer.
 

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So ,where to begin ? You do not need a DA , I never use a DA. A DA sander,light grit becomes necessary when you have real heavy swirling. A rotary,if you don't know what your doing can be a bad situation. However these foam pads are much more forgiving these days ,there's still a chance of doing damage . You want to make sure you thoroughly wash the car ,clay bar .things can be picked up by the towel ,plus I've seen people use a bath towel and accidentally drag a hanging part of it on the ground and not notice. So therow car wash before you buff. There are people here on the forum that like to use a two bucket system. To each there own but I don't. I make sure I have a clean bucket and nothing in my sponge or mit before I start,that's all ,no second bucket and for me no issues . Air compressor is nice to use . Take an air tool and yes be careful not to drop the air tool on your baby,that would make for a bad day . I've used the water blade with no issues but for some reason,like others here ,I'm worried I'll scratch it. I've done brand new black cars and no issues ,so I guess it is safe. If your swirls are light enough,you can just use a hand applicator and rub in a circle with some elbow grease . When your buffing a car ,your putting friction on the paint causing it to heat up and move ,covering the light scratch or swirls. A rotary at no higher then 1400 rpm's will heat up the paint better.but again, hand and elbow grease can work too. Also .better to do it out of the sun. Keep in mind that during the summer when its hot as Hell. Your rides paint will already be hot and when you buff with a rotary, you can burn the paint from the paint already being hot and you buffing and adding more heat. Washing her in the shade will help cool it down. It is possible to polish out in the sun but just be careful. Do it at 900 to 1000 rpm's for three or four seconds and put your hand ,no rings to the paint and see how hot it feels. If its pretty hot ,stop . There's a lot to know when buffing. Your pads ,buffing pads like lambs wool or foam , compared to polishing pads, . Compounds and there grit amounts, the heavier the grit ,the more abrasive the compound. There's also swirl remover you can use. Some products are machine use only and some are for both. Honestly I've always gotten the type that is good for hand and rotary,so can't say when it says machine only ,you are going to have issues if you tried by hand .you gotta watch your corners/edges when using a rotary because the paint can be softer and more prone to burning it. 1200 to 1400 rpm's is good ,the faster the rpm's ,the better the odds of burning the paint. to slow like 600 rpm's ,you may not get any results that your hand polish/buff would do .Mcqiures is good and there are others that are good too, to each there own . . I've done a few where a DA was required. I do not do it ,our body shop gets those. My own cars have never needed a DA but I am always polishing and waxing mine ,keeping it up. I've got the beautiful panther black metallic and yea ,swirls show up easy. If anyone wants to see my results on how mine comes out ,go to my album here on the forum. I'll post a photo link to a camaro I did that was black . It wasn't awful and I just hand polished it . Came out nice . Well good luck gang .hope everyones car turns out successfully.
Mcdonell318 ,I did a five year stint at delta, that was early 2000 or so . ,there good but not everyone there is good and it depends on who you get cleaning your car if it turns out good. Lots of kids that are there and its just a job ,they don't care.
BenG8 , I use the cheaper shamwoow knock off and have been ok. Sure you didn't just catch a lower part of the car that got missed during the wash , dirt got in the chamois? Sounds like this isn't a common issue for you .
 
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