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Hi, I'm in need of some advice.

My alternator warning symbol came on so I thought I'd first check the alternator connections. I found that the battery to alternator lead was loose, so I tightened that up, but of course I forgot to disconnect the battery and almost welded my 1/4 inch SnapOn drive to the chassis when it contacted. Foolish.
Anyway, now my car won't start. It's like I've got a dead battery except that the immobiliser light on the dash is illuminated. Obviously I've checked all fuse boxes I know of; large engine bay one, passenger side footwell (I'm in Australia), and above the battery. My test lamp shows I'm getting power to the engine bay fuses and the alternator.
I really hope I haven't fried something. Can someone offer any advice as to what I can do to diagnose this problem?

Thanks for any help,

Shaun.
 

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I'm guessing that you own a manual transmission version an can remove the ignition key (even thou nothing seems to work). Does this mean that when rotating the ignition key to position 1 or 2, you *do not* get any accessory power ? If this is so, it sounds like you lost your 12 volt supply to the ignition lock cylinder. I know you said all the fuses appear to be OK, but it sure sounds like the F12-2A fuse (labeled DLIS/THEFT DTRNT) has failed. It is located in the IP fuse panel. I think you should at least double check the condition of that fuse for starters.
 

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What's your battery voltage? If you shorted the battery with the ratchet, you might have damaged one of the cells.
 

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^^^^ The WD's do show that there is a 175A inline fuse link in the big wire going from the underhood battery post, down to the Alternator. The member does say that he shows power at the Alternator, and the underhood fuse panel. That tells me that the fuse link did not have a meltdown (as of yet). So I'm going to guess that he has several things working, but his start function is inop. Course, he didn't say if has a click but no crank condition, etc.
 

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You're right, there is a fused link. However, that's mostly to protect the cable as it will be sized to the cable ampacity. It also will have an inherent delay for blowing during a short circuit event, with that delay being dependent on the magnitude of the fault current. A weak battery could be shorted to a level that would damage it, but not necessarily blow the fuse if the short was not sustained. I'm not saying it's necessarily the source of the problem, but it's a possibility nonetheless.
 

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I think when you zapped your ratchet - once grounded ot the car the computer saw a power spike while the car was locked.

It thinks someone tried to jump start and steal your car. So it locks out the ECU ignition. Which is why you have power but it won't start.

you need to hook up and see if this shows as a DTC. Imobilizer enabled or something like that. DO you also have the X contact dealer on the info panel?


Might be as simple has having the computer unlocked via scanner. Which I think has to be done but you might try cycling the lock and unlock commands on your key fob - and then trying to start it. (I assume here you already did that) That can reset the alarm but I don't know it will reset the immobilization settings.


Meanwhile try a 30 minute or more battery cable removal and see if it hard resets. I doubt it though.


After all that still hook up a computer to read the car and I wonder of the ECU died in the arc event. These are just guesses however.

OH and check your fuses on the battery cable - by the battery. They are for the BMS system - and that might have killed one. those fuses are important too.
 
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