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Discussion Starter #1
I believe this is original for my 2009 g8gt. But now it has clicking noise in low speed and it gets more frequent by the day. I have read posts online and the strut mount bushing is often mentioned as a cause of noise and people are changing them every other year. I took a picture of it. I feel someone can confirm this has to to. Should I go for white line? They are twice expensive but people say they help the performance. Not sure how much with just the bushings. Any information is welcome. --after seeing this pictue again I wonder how can the strut still hangs on there with this loose a mount.
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Well, your upper strut mounts are definitely "done"
If the noise is ina straight line , not turning the wheel, I question if your noise is related.
What mounts to use? I will defer to others here.
While I own a set of Whitelines , they are on a shelf as neither of our two cars really need them yet and ride on originals.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, your upper strut mounts are definitely "done"
If the noise is ina straight line , not turning the wheel, I question if your noise is related.
What mounts to use? I will defer to others here.
While I own a set of Whitelines , they are on a shelf as neither of our two cars really need them yet and ride on originals.
Thanks for the reply. The noise does happen when I go straight line. Mostly on uneven paved road. I have replaced the torn sway bar endlinks but that only fixed it for a few days. It came back stronger now with the weather getting much colder. Now I am wondering why I dont have noises when I turn with those upper mounts.
 

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Well, the bearings themselves may be OK and as long as the susp doesn't move quick enough for the bushing to unload from the body, It could possibly be quiet still most of the time.

Our GT, I have done lower arms (4) The loose joints allowed a steering wheel shimmy when they were unloaded on transition between straight and a turn.
Picture them side loaded out while driving straight, and the outside joint loaded inboard during a turn. At one point of transition between the two they are unloaded.

Gt, also did front sway bar links as they caused an audible rattles on uneven surfaces and driveway lips.

Edit, reread you did links and the noise was gone for a bit.
Wonder if that was somehow related to the front wheels hanging during the links getting done?
Now it has settled back ? Just guessing now :)
Anyway, noise or not, it really is asking for the new uppers
 

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Current mileage? Regarding the strut mounts, Best "rubber" strut mounts?. Suggest replacing both the struts and strut mounts together especially if they are the original factory struts. By the way, ensure both the upper and lower nut is snug on each sway-bar endlink. If not, they could make a clunking not clicking sound when going over uneven pavement. Ask me how I know.
 

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The Mustang dude
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If youre still working with stock components (arms, struts and mounts), Id say its just good maintenance to start replacing them. Im running superpro mounts and lower arms along with H&R coilovers. Before I replaced them, it should be noted that the arms always made more noise during cold weather (not that it ever really gets cold here in So. Cal)...not sure why, but thats what my experience was. So pick a part and start replacing. Id start with a nice set of arms.
 

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FYI - With the weight of the car, the strut/spring is pushing up from the bottom. So as the bushing squished/collapsed the gap opens under that round plate and also is allowing side-to-side motion, probably enough for the end of the strut to contact the side of the hole it passes through.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Current mileage? Regarding the strut mounts, Best "rubber" strut mounts?. Suggest replacing both the struts and strut mounts together especially if they are the original factory struts. By the way, ensure both the upper and lower nut is snug on each sway-bar endlink. If not, they could make a clunking not clicking sound when going over uneven pavement. Ask me how I know.
Thanks for the warning! I torqued them according to their specs and so far no clunking. Only squeaks and clicks. The car has 81k on it. Mostly original factory parts so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
FYI - With the weight of the car, the strut/spring is pushing up from the bottom. So as the bushing squished/collapsed the gap opens under that round plate and also is allowing side-to-side motion, probably enough for the end of the strut to contact the side of the hole it passes through.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
 

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If youre still working with stock components (arms, struts and mounts), Id say its just good maintenance to start replacing them. Im running superpro mounts and lower arms along with H&R coilovers. Before I replaced them, it should be noted that the arms always made more noise during cold weather (not that it ever really gets cold here in So. Cal)...not sure why, but thats what my experience was. So pick a part and start replacing. Id start with a nice set of arms.
yeah at 81k it seems the fun is just about to start... pedders coilovers are just a little shy of 1 grand right now on Amazon. But it's too cold here for m to pull the trigger. You are right So. Cal has no right to claim being cold. It will be -10 this weekend here in Chicago.
 

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At about 65k I started to notice some shimmy, drifting, and pulling. My strut mount bushings were definitely crushed (though not as much as in your picture) but since we were pulling out the struts to replace them, we decided to replace the struts too - and then, everything - radius rods, LCA's, end links & bushings, all SuperPro except the endlinks were Whiteline. Besides the strut mount bushings, the only outrightly bad parts were the endlinks and one LCA ball joint. Front end is tight as a drum now and I'll have peace of mind for years now having gone through it all. About $700 in parts took care of it. You may wish to consider this approach.
 

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your Bushing is probably shot, but remember there is supposed to be a Gap at that point in the picture just not as much
 

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Your bushing is definitely dead. As for "replacing every year", that depends on the quality of the bushings, and I think also on the shocks. The PPV shocks are stiffer and I think harder on the bushings. The bushings I've got from gtog8ta.com died after about half a year with PPV shocks. The Monroe bushings seem to be doing fine for over a year now (incidentally, the PPV shocks are also made by Monroe).

The only catch with the Monroe bushings is that they squeak when new, and it takes them months to stop squeaking. I think they're slightly undersized on the inside, so as the strut turns, it squeaks, until the bushing wears in a little. I wonder if spraying the bushings with a silicone lubricant before installing would prevent the squeaks.
 

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There are no “Good” rubber strut mounts. None. There are good. poly mounts by several makers and the best made by Superpro the Polyelast. The Polyelast will restore the front end to stock height. Many of the others will lower slightly. This is the height difference between the stock height of the Polyelast and a regular poly mount.
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Well, I would not use polyurethane for this mount. Unlike rubber, polyurethane compresses over time under load, so that for example the sway bar end link bushings flatten quickly and need to be replaced. And this bushing is always under load. I would not use polyurethane in a street car's suspension any more, other than lightly loaded places like the sway bar mount bushings, because it usually needs replacement every couple of years.

Polyelast should be better, it's supposed to not compress, but I don't have any experience with it.

The rubber bushings tear around the inner steel sleeve. An easy fix would probably be to make that sleeve inverted-mushroom-shaped, so that it spreads the load over more rubber. I'm surprised than nobody does it.
 

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The Mustang dude
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I have over a year on my Polyelast strut bushes and they are stil great. They were never harsh, ride height is right where I set it (H&R coilovers), alignment is ritght where my guy set it up and they are quiet as stock. I think they were about 60% more expensive, but I havent had to think about them at all since installing them. I have no complaints.
 

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I have over a year on my Polyelast strut bushes and they are stil great. They were never harsh, ride height is right where I set it (H&R coilovers), alignment is ritght where my guy set it up and they are quiet as stock. I think they were about 60% more expensive, but I havent had to think about them at all since installing them. I have no complaints.
Same here. Less than a year but very happy with mine. Per my post above, I started with the bushings and ended up doing a lot more, but I've had no increase in harshness and a much tighter front suspension.
 

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Same here. Less than a year but very happy with mine. Per my post above, I started with the bushings and ended up doing a lot more, but I've had no increase in harshness and a much tighter front suspension.
Yeah once I had them in, I knew I wanted the rear cradle pieces too. Now the whole car is tight as a drum. Love it.
 
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Well, I would not use polyurethane for this mount. Unlike rubber, polyurethane compresses over time under load, so that for example the sway bar end link bushings flatten quickly and need to be replaced. And this bushing is always under load. I would not use polyurethane in a street car's suspension any more, other than lightly loaded places like the sway bar mount bushings, because it usually needs replacement every couple of years.

Polyelast should be better, it's supposed to not compress, but I don't have any experience with it.
There are many different types of Polyurethane ( in fact Polyurethane can be made in Solid, Liquid & Aerosol forms) and in different hardnesses ( call Durometer reading). So depending on the Durometer reading they may not compress.

Polyurethane is a Polymer, as is Delrin, Polyelast, Elastomer, etc. I would not be afraid of Polyurethane
 
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