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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the car has now been started five times and let idle and it appears my oil pressure problem has been solved but I’d still love to know what happen. The inside of the oil pump looks absolutely fantastic no gouges or scrapes the plunger seems to move freely and is not scored or chewed up in anyway. The only thing I can think of is that pick up tube O-ring as you can see in the pictures has a large gap almost all the way around. The new O-ring barely fits in the hole and was a nightmare to get back together. My only problem now is I have a knock sensor code and a 5 V reference code which I believe is for the knock sensor I’m hoping that maybe I pulled the wire when I pulled the oil pan down or maybe unplugged it. Also now I have a small oil drip under the car and I know for a fact I put very good gray RTV in the corners of the timing cover and the whole bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan just to make sure. I’m keeping my fingers crossed but so far the lowest the oil pressure has gone has been about 36 and that’s at full operating temperature.
 

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If you finger wasn’t in the way, you would see the discoloured area beside the unused bolt hole on the pump. I hope you bought a hold down for that extra hole. Yours was pulled up from the pump. That movement is what accelerates the wear on the O-ring and the leakage. As for your leak, did you push the oil pan back so it’s touching the transmission before tightening the pan bolts? If it wasn’t, the timing cover won’t be flat on the block. If the shop did all this, they can fix it for free
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you finger wasn’t in the way, you would see the discoloured area beside the unused bolt hole on the pump. I hope you bought a hold down for that extra hole. Yours was pulled up from the pump. That movement is what accelerates the wear on the O-ring and the leakage. As for your leak, did you push the oil pan back so it’s touching the transmission before tightening the pan bolts? If it wasn’t, the timing cover won’t be flat on the block. If the shop did all this, they can fix it for free
Yes I actually see the spot you’re talking about on the extra bolt hole on the pump. And no I didn’t use anything different to bolt it back up because I did the work and was not aware of any other product. And as for the leak I’m pretty sure I lightly put all the bolts back in the pan and then tightened the back transmission bolts but it does look like it’s leaking from the back.
 

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Yes I actually see the spot you’re talking about on the extra bolt hole on the pump. And no I didn’t use anything different to bolt it back up because I did the work and was not aware of any other product. And as for the leak I’m pretty sure I lightly put all the bolts back in the pan and then tightened the back transmission bolts but it does look like it’s leaking from the back.
 

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No, the leak is likely at the front. If the oil pan is not touching the transmission the pan may hold the timing cover forward, enough to cause a leak. You can test it and see if you can slide anything between the oil pan and the trans. If they are touching, it’s not the problem. As for the pick up. Yours was like this. The oil pick up tube will move and that gap will open and close. That accelerates the O-ring to wear out. There are three different styles of retainers to fix this. They all have the exact same result. You need one.

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In one of your other threads, a you tube video was listed. “5 things you need for LS engines.” WATCH IT. It explains what the problems are and how cheap it is to fix it
 

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...Yes I actually see the spot you’re talking about on the extra bolt hole on the pump. And no I didn’t use anything different to bolt it back up because I did the work and was not aware of any other product...
You really should consider installing one of these clamps. That way, you have a bolt on each side to give you better holding strength on that tube.LS Engine Oil Pump Pickup Tube Brace / Clamp (improvedracing.com)
Danv508 liked this post five days ago.
 

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I'm a bit lost in your issue. Making a new thread every time there is a development makes it hard to follow and not make redundant comments and suggestions.
 

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We are all giving him Good Advice. It’s his problem he does not take it and now has to redo the work. Good point about too many threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just assumed that replying to older posts would get left behind and I appreciate all your advice but unfortunately some people have to do things on a budget. That’s not to say I would want to harm the car but I’ve had 100 people tell me that the noise was the DOD lifters and clearly it was not I’ve had 1000 people tell me it was a cam bearing that let go and I’ve just tried to insist on how you can have a oil pressure one day and then load oil pressure the next day and now after doing the oil pump the oil pressure is consistently high. But once again thank you for all your help on this forum it has been great and I hope to have the car for many years and look forward to asking for more advice. As I stated before I am a mechanic but I do not get into engine rebuilds so it’s a little hard for me to judge on what to do on a performance engine.
 

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Re: The Knock sensor and 5v codes. Have you checked to see if you pinched any wires when you reinstalled the pan? It's pretty easy to trap wires between the pan and the block.

In the future, you can come back to your orginal posts and reply, it brings it back to the top of the list when you do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: The Knock sensor and 5v codes. Have you checked to see if you pinched any wires when you reinstalled the pan? It's pretty easy to trap wires between the pan and the block.

In the future, you can come back to your orginal posts and reply, it brings it back to the top of the list when you do so.
Thank you I wasn’t sure if the post just fell further behind and yes I did pinch one of the wires in one of the bolts for the pan
 

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Posters - the OP has clearly stated it's a $1500 car. Countless post have been made to help him, at the end of the day it's his car, his choice on priorities. The OP has posted the same question on the G8 FB pages - he/she has plenty of feedback.

OP - the L76 is not a performance engine. It's a generic GM LS V8, nothing fancy. It's used in several GM models of cars and trucks. The block is a LS2 dating back to 2005(?). Nothing special. It's just an engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Posters - the OP has clearly stated it's a $1500 car. Countless post have been made to help him, at the end of the day it's his car, his choice on priorities. The OP has posted the same question on the G8 FB pages - he/she has plenty of feedback.

OP - the L76 is not a performance engine. It's a generic GM LS V8, nothing fancy. It's used in several GM models of cars and trucks. The block is a LS2 dating back to 2005(?). Nothing special. It's just an engine.
Sorry you feel that way but I’m sure plenty of people on here would agree that it’s not just an ordinary engine. And like I stated previously I do not work on internal engines other than timing belts. The more advice I can get the better I can judge which is the better way. I had a performance shop tell me to heat the harmonic balancer to about 400° and then slide it on you didn’t need an installer tool when clearly the tool was the easier way to go so that’s why I collect information from everyone and there is no stupid questions just stupid answers.
 

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400 degrees!!! Bake the rubber right out of it. Then it will start wobbling and fail. You have to think, will it damage my part if I do X to it.
 

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If you finger wasn’t in the way, you would see the discoloured area beside the unused bolt hole on the pump. I hope you bought a hold down for that extra hole. Yours was pulled up from the pump. That movement is what accelerates the wear on the O-ring and the leakage. As for your leak, did you push the oil pan back so it’s touching the transmission before tightening the pan bolts? If it wasn’t, the timing cover won’t be flat on the block. If the shop did all this, they can fix it for free
No, the leak is likely at the front. If the oil pan is not touching the transmission the pan may hold the timing cover forward, enough to cause a leak. You can test it and see if you can slide anything between the oil pan and the trans. If they are touching, it’s not the problem. As for the pick up. Yours was like this. The oil pick up tube will move and that gap will open and close. That accelerates the O-ring to wear out. There are three different styles of retainers to fix this. They all have the exact same result. You need one.

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For the record, I'm not directly disagreeing with you. I'm just reminded about my thoughts on the infamous O-ring failures. First of all, that picture with the bent tube is likely on purpose or exaggerated. I've had numerous Vortec/ LS engines apart and they are never visibly bent like that. Second, I don't believe the single bolt retention is the cause of any of the failures. The way I tend to think about it is: every single O-ring that has failed is always hard and brittle but flattened equally all around, not lop-sided like the one-bolt clamping would suggest. There are many O-ring seals in the engine that are similar in design, but don't suffer leaks and failures like the pump o-ring. On the engine: the steam ports, crank sensor, cam sensor just of the top of my head all use a single bolt on a flange to retain the item in place, but they don't randomly spring a leak routinely.

I don't think the pickup tube can wobble either, because its bolted in 2-3 places (depending on if its car or truck) which holds it very firmly in place. Again, just my $.02 thoughts on the subject.
 

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...For example, FB and others will tell you jumper cables are not needed when both batteries are top terminal - just flip the good one upside down and go terminal to terminal...
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