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Discussion Starter #1
So what exactly makes the rear Koni shocks lower our vehicles?

I just had a rear PPV shock delivered to me a few days ago to compare and they seem to have the same height. The rod on the Koni Sport yellow is longer but that only has to do with travel. That shouldn't affect the ride height.

Note that the PPV rear shock has a rubber isolation painted onto the seat that is ~1/4" thick. The OEM FE3s did not have this.

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Shocks should not change ride height. Must be something else

Edit: I forgot that we have struts on the back, not shocks per sec. Thus, it can affect ride height. Sorry for the misinformation
 

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Where is your rubber seat for the Koni? Or buy poly ones . Your stock shocks have it built in. It’s not metal on metal
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Shocks should not change ride height. Must be something else
I agree. But if the lower spring seat was different it would change the height.

Plenty of reports out there of the Koni Sport yellows and FSD golds (same shock body) lower the rear of the VE. I'm trying to understand why since I have compared it to a PPV shock.

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Discussion Starter #5
Where is your rubber seat for the Koni? Or buy poly ones . Your stock shocks have it built in. It’s not metal on metal View attachment 182108
From what I remember, the FE3s I pulled off had no isolator.

Koni does not supply an isolator.

The OEM isolator that I used doesn't fit the Koni seat very well. Ignore the spacer but the rubber isolator is on top of the Koni seat.

 

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Discussion Starter #6

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96103 is 7/32” so it will lift the vehicle just under half an inch. Or just transfer the adjusters to the new shocks
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
96103 is 7/32” (also 0.21875") so it will lift the vehicle just under half an inch. Or just transfer the adjusters to the new shocks
The picture I posted is from 2017. It was only to illustrate how the OEM isolator sits on the Koni seat (poorly).

I currently have the Koni FSD golds in the rear with Eibach springs and the threaded sleeve [on the lowest setting possible]. With this combination, the car sits a little too high in the rear for my liking. I'm tryng to avoid just using the Koni stamped seat in the rear because it may make the vehicle too low. At least it did when I had King springs (I have three different rear sets and have changed them out multiple times); this is the reason why I purchased the threaded sleeve in the first place.

But I think 9.6115 might solve my problem since the thinnest ramp area is 0.25" (this matches the PPV thickness) and the rest of the isolator ramps up to support the spring.

I'll order a pair to see how it fits on the Koni stamped seat I have lying around.

EDIT: Just bought both on Amazon.
 

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Looking at your photo of the King springs installed. It appears the sleeve is up-side down. You should find that with the tapered end up, the sleeve will slide down the shock further past the clip ring.
182117
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looking at your photo of the King springs installed. It appears the sleeve is up-side down. You should find that with the tapered end up, the sleeve will slide down the shock further past the clip ring. View attachment 182117
The other side doesn’t have a lip to sit on the circlip.
 

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That can’t be the only sleeve available. One must ride lower. Would be worth asking Koni . If you have the 4” long sleeve. Does the 5 or 7” sleeve have the clip groove at a different height?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I received the stepped isolator today and it looks like it won't fit the Koni seat. I guess I didn't measure the inner diameter correctly or made some bad assumptions.

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Either way, they don't offer anything that will fit and after a phone call, I was informed that they don't make custom isolators. The person I spoke with confirmed that I could grind some material off of the inner diameter after I asked and that it wouldn't affect the durometer of the material.

After the phone call I decided to just force it onto the Koni seat and it actually fit. It's a tight fit as well. Notice how it bulges in the center section but it's not popping off. I think it will work.

Notice the damaged Koni seat that occurs over time.

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That’s a fit in my books. A little lube might help
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That’s a fit in my books. A little lube might help
I left the isolators on the new Koni seats over night and all looks good. They haven't slid up or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The flat isolator arrived today. Despite the inner diameter being the same as the stepped one, it fit much better. It doesn't free fall onto the seat but it isn't difficult at all to put on the seat.

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I'm going to stick with the stepped isolator.

I will remove the Koni threaded sleeve and seat this weekened and install the stepped isolator onto the Koni stamped steel seat along with the Eibach springs that are aleady on the car. This should lower the car a bit since the threaded sleeve + Eibach springs raised it. The front is pretty much where I want it with the Eibach springs.
 

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Having an insulator under your springs will give you the ride ride quality you want and restore the ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Having an insulator under your springs will give you the ride ride quality you want and restore the ride height.
I don’t have any issues with ride quality due to the lack of an isolator.

My issues (wallowy rear end) probably stem from damaged/worn out bushings in the rear. This will also be corrected this weekend along with installing the rear subframe bushings inserts.

I initially thought it was the King springs and Koni Sport yellows that worn out. Replacing the Koni Sport yellows fixed this a bit but then it felt loose again/weird. Going to Eibach and Koni FSD golds proved that there are still some issues in the rear end that I need to sort out. I’ll be installing ZL1 arms, ZL1 toe rods, ZL1 upper control arm solid bushings, Mevotech upper control arms, and replacing all of the stock knuckle bushings with OEM replacements.
 

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Now you will be on rails. Removed all the soft loose voided bushings should take out any unwanted deflection. The best shocks and springs can’t make up for the stock sloppy stuff.
 
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I initially thought it was the King springs and Koni Sport yellows that worn out. Replacing the Koni Sport yellows fixed this a bit but then it felt loose again/weird. Going to Eibach and Koni FSD golds proved that there are still some issues in the rear end that I need to sort out. I’ll be installing ZL1 arms, ZL1 toe rods, ZL1 upper control arm solid bushings, Mevotech upper control arms, and replacing all of the stock knuckle bushings with OEM replacements.
Can you list all the P/N's for the ZL1 parts? Do these make a nice difference over the stock parts? I'll be putting on the Koni FSD's next year and I might as well replace these other parts as well while I'm in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Can you list all the P/N's for the ZL1 parts? Do these make a nice difference over the stock parts? I'll be putting on the Koni FSD's next year and I might as well replace these other parts as well while I'm in there.
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Z/28 rear upper control arm rear right bushing to frame: 23104906 - #50 (includes #51)
Z/28 rear upper control arm rear left bushing to frame: 23104907 - #50 (includes #51)
Z/28, ZL1, and 1LE trailing arm: 23104900 - #34 (includes #37)
Z/28, ZL1, and 1LE toe link: 22845487 (Dorman 524-564 is cheaper) - #41 (includes #43)

G8 rear lower control arm bushing to knuckle (GXP): 92225044 (MAS BK90580 is much cheaper) - between #20 and #22
G8 rear lower control arm bushing to knuckle (Base and GT): 92159149 - between #20 and #22
G8 rear trailing arm bushing to knuckle: 92159149 - #29
G8 rear upper control arm bushing to knuckle: 92287353 - between #45 and #46
G8 rear upper control arm front bushing: 92287353 - #48

2015-2017 Chevy SS rear lower control arm left: 92287742 - #17 (includes #18)
2015-2017 Chevy SS rear lower control arm right: 92287743 - #17 (includes #18)
 
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