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Discussion Starter #21
Can you list all the P/N's for the ZL1 parts? Do these make a nice difference over the stock parts? I'll be putting on the Koni FSD's next year and I might as well replace these other parts as well while I'm in there.
I won’t know if it makes a difference until tomorrow.

My rear end is very wallowy. Going from King springs + Koni Sport yellows to Eibach springs + Koni FSD golds made little difference. Aside from being more comfortable and the fact that when I floor it while driving, the rear end will really tighten up now and I can chirp the tires. This is due to the FSD golds tightening up. I haven’t really been able to chirp the tires on a long time. Likely due to the worn out parts/wallowy rear end.

I will be installing everything (subframe bushing inserts as well) tomorrow except for the lower control arms. I installed those a couple of weekends ago. Also, I will be replacing the rear upper control arms with Mevotech arms due to the $17 RockAuto close out deal.
 

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You have a BIG day ahead of you. I used a 2 foot ratcheting breaker bar to remove the subframe Bolts. A good work out and keeps from breaking the bolts.
 

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Which rear lower control arms did you have on the car when you put the Konis on? I noticed exactly the same thing with mine and new OEM springs. I measured and found I dropped about an inch. I had to replace the LCA’s with Mevotechs at the time though because the shop had to cut off my originals. Couldn’t get the camber bolts free.
I saw somewhere here a thread indicating 1LE arms may raise a G8. Just wondered if there were some LCAs that could possibly lower a car.
 

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The only control arm that lowers a G8 or Camaro is from Spohn. It drops a set 1.25”
If you want more or less drop your screwed. It’s also the wrong way to do it. At $495 it’s too expensive too. The only way to lower the car is change the springs OR adjustable coil over rear shocks. QA1 GS601 shocks are $400 a pair. You get adjustable ride height and the shock is externally adjustable for rebound. More useable features. If you install konis with just the metal spring seat, it lowers the car. Put in the rubber or poly spring seat so the mount height matches the stock shock and there is no difference in ride height. They just don’t make it clear in the instructions
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The only control arm that lowers a G8 or Camaro is from Spohn. It drops a set 1.25”
If you want more or less drop your screwed. It’s also the wrong way to do it. At $495 it’s too expensive too. The only way to lower the car is change the springs OR adjustable coil over rear shocks. QA1 GS601 shocks are $400 a pair. You get adjustable ride height and the shock is externally adjustable for rebound. More useable features. If you install konis with just the metal spring seat, it lowers the car. Put in the rubber or poly spring seat so the mount height matches the stock shock and there is no difference in ride height. They just don’t make it clear in the instructions
Unfortunately, that poly spring seat isn't very tough or durable. Both versions I used have started to tear and compress easily.
 

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Interesting. So is the best bet still to use those Koni threaded sleeves to restore ride height with these shocks?
 

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The spring seat they provide just isn't strong enough and it sits too low on the clip. A poly piece for the bottom of the spring appears to be to weak. I bet one at the top of the spring won’t fall apart. Off-road truck us them.
182654
182656
 

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Better is to use the threaded sleeve and adjust ride height till it’s perfect.


I went with QA1 and got height adjustable and external adjustment all in one.
 

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Discussion Starter #29

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Energy suspension. Pending on how much lift you want, they have 3 that will fit. Since the lift is double the thickness of the isolator. They have 5/8” 3/4” and 1 1/4. 9.6108 , 9.6101, and 9.6120 in that order. For a 1” rubber lift the Global West Suspension spacer you would zip tie to the spring during assemble. Pressure will keep it there. Jegs, Summit. They all carry them
182680
 

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I tried out the Koni threaded adjustable sleeve on my GXP with newly installed Pedders 2957 FE2 springs. I think it spread the shock and spring out enough that it threw off the geometry. Couldn’t even get it all bolted back together.

A shop put the springs on for me and I wanted them to do the sleeves. They didn’t. Tried it this morning and no go. They might be better with lowered springs.

I forgot how much of a pain it is to get this suspension back together once it’s apart. Lower control arm wouldn’t line up. Probably 1.5” off. So I took the upper arm off the knuckle. LCA lined up but then the upper wouldn’t go on. Now it’s at the point where the only bolt that won’t thread is the one at the front of the trailing arm. It’s like everything is in a bind. Won’t go in with the suspension at full droop or jacked up.

Part of it might be the poly bushings in the toe arm and trailing arm. They didn’t have the ZL1/Z28 upgrades when I bought this stuff.
Back at it tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Unfortunately, you’ll need to push the rear lower control arm down a bit more to fit the assembly in there. This will slightly bend the frame a bit where the control arm is connected to the frame.

But I’m confused: the shop put the springs on but didn’t use the sleeve? What dampers are you using?
 

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When you are changing springs, you have to do an alignment 100% of the time. You must loosen the the lower control arm cam bolt. The arm then drops and it all goes back together easily. Regardless of the spring, when the shock,spring and retainer are assembled. They are all the same length because the shock determines the length. The spring only affects the ride height. By not loosening the cam bolt you run the risk of damaging the arm, the bushing and the mounts on the subframe. If the bolt does not loosen, then it needs to be replaced. You can’t perform the alignment if it’s seized.
 

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Finally got this back together. Had to pry like hell to get the LCA to knuckle connection to line up.

That’s correct, the shop put the springs on but not the sleeves I told them about. I have the Koni sport yellow shocks front and rear. They left the original perches on the back. I also provided new bolts for the shock top mounts in back, strut top bearings and clevis bolts for the front and Koni bump stops all around and they didn’t use anything. Oh they also put the front springs on rotated 180 out so the notches faced towards the wheel instead of the engine. They also didn’t transfer the plastic spring wraps from old to new.

I fixed the fronts Friday night. Yesterday and today I got through the left rear. All I ended up changing really was to add the spring wrap to both rear springs. It looks and rides nice right now. So may or may not bother with the sleeves. There’s at least an inch difference in where the bottom of the spring is along the shock with the sleeve in there. Maybe that’s too much for stock height springs.
For now I’m just going to get it aligned and drive it. Maybe in the spring I’ll try the sleeves again.
 

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I’ll check out the cam bolts at the subframe. I thought I only had to remove the connection at the knuckle. The arm dropped all the way and was resting on the frame. But maybe it needs to be able move inward and outward to pick up the knuckle joint?

Seems like these cam bolts rust and freeze easily. When I first had springs and shocks done 5 years ago, the shop I went to then had to cut the arms and bolts off and replace them. Almost like they’re disposable. Good for one alignment only.

I’d like to find a shop I could trust to do this kind of thing correctly. Bad experiences in the past with some speed shops and tire shops. E.G. oil pump changed out in an F-Body and halfway home the car overheats because they didn’t burp the cooling system when they buttoned everything up. Or wrench dropped on windshield cracking it and didn’t even offer to go halfsies on a new one. This is why I just do everything I can myself now.
 

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Oh I hear you on that, not letting others work on your car. I have never paid for a brake job. If it wasn’t warranty , windshield install, or an alignment. I did it. Now do you own a bottle of anti-seize to cover those bolts so the alignment an be done down the road. I keep both the silver and the copper anti-seize. Not sure about the koni sleeves, but on my QA1 coil overs. The threading is aluminum and it has to have lots of anti-seize the keep the the adjuster fro galling on the threads
 

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...I’d like to find a shop I could trust to do this kind of thing correctly. Bad experiences in the past with some speed shops and tire shops. E.G. oil pump changed out in an F-Body and halfway home the car overheats because they didn’t burp the cooling system when they buttoned everything up. Or wrench dropped on windshield cracking it and didn’t even offer to go halfsies on a new one. This is why I just do everything I can myself now.
Not necessarily speed shops, but plenty of tire shops have damaged things like rims, tires, lugnut studs, missing lugnuts, and etc. Not to mention the exorbitant amount of money charged per hour/job for someone incompetent, inept and unable to adequately repair a vehicle. Personally make as many repairs as possible even if the task takes longer than planned. Years ago, a nationwide automotive repair chain set things in motion upon reviewing a relatives repair bills and discovered the same repairs were being made at different locations....ugh.
 

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Oh I hear you on that, not letting others work on your car. I have never paid for a brake job. If it wasn’t warranty , windshield install, or an alignment. I did it. Now do you own a bottle of anti-seize to cover those bolts so the alignment an be done down the road. I keep both the silver and the copper anti-seize. Not sure about the koni sleeves, but on my QA1 coil overs. The threading is aluminum and it has to have lots of anti-seize the keep the the adjuster fro galling on the threads

If it wasn’t warranty , windshield install, or an alignment. I did it.
Same here
 
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