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thanks for the info.
plz, i need the link to buy the same HX.
what are the dimension? custom made or company? single pass dual?

thank you so much
 

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Question on the snout ports that you plugged, I see some people use the one on the left for evap I believe. Any pros or cons to plugging them?
 

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Thanks for the document! Got it downloaded and in reserve for my LSA swap soon.
 

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Question on the snout ports that you plugged, I see some people use the one on the left for evap I believe. Any pros or cons to plugging them?
some people plug both ports and have the evap tuned out, some people just hook up the evap system and plug one.
what I did...
Drill out the hole with a 1/2" drill bit if your going to use a 14-1.5 plug like I did. Tap with a 14-1.5 tap, coat plug with anaerobic sealer and install plug!!



those two things are already done!
haha took me a month!! although I did swap cams...again. I was only working on it a few days after work too. Its really not that complicated, the trick is to get everything together so you don't have to wait on parts. I had a few parts snags that delayed things but I don't see any reason you couldn't get it done in a weekend.

glanzer and his document helped tremendously with my install!! thanks man!!!
 

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Great Write up. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I have two questions related to adding a supercharger, that I didnt see mentioned.

1. Is it necessary to have the ECM retuned?
2. How does the tranny hold up to the extra power? I would love some more power, but wouldn't want to do anything that is going to shorten the tranny life.
 

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absolutely you will need a tune
if you go with higher boost, you will eventually run into trans problems. im @7.5 PSI now and haven't seen problems...yet. mods and numbers in sig.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Great Write up. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I have two questions related to adding a supercharger, that I didnt see mentioned.

1. Is it necessary to have the ECM retuned?
2. How does the tranny hold up to the extra power? I would love some more power, but wouldn't want to do anything that is going to shorten the tranny life.
Yes the ECM will need to be tuned.
Few reason why.
1. You cant run stock injectors on a LSA swap so you will be upgrading to either 52#ers or higher which requires retune
2. MAF scaling and fuel adding is a must for what you will be putting at it now.

The trans will hold up for awhile. I made it to 685 and it eventually let go on me.
 

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I 2nd.. with so many after market kits available I'm trying to figure out why so many peeps want the LSA?
Cause they are cheaper to get then buying the aftermarket units.
Besides being half the price of a maggie 1900 or 2300, they make more power much more easily.
 

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What would you guys say your out the door cost was for the LSA swap? Finding a blower for $6/700, injectores, Not including a tune just parts.... maybe $1-1,500?
 

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I also think the LSA looks a lot better. Im a big fan of the "factory look".
 

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What would you guys say your out the door cost was for the LSA swap? Finding a blower for $6/700, injectores, Not including a tune just parts.... maybe $1-1,500?
I have around $3500 in my setup. (Blower, fuel system, etc)
 

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^ Its hard for me to grasp how it can cost so much if the actual blower itself costs around $700. I understand you need injectors and a fuel pump (but not sure why one would need a fuel pump when I only used a Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump on my stock C5 fuel pump) But unless you just wanted to upgrade your fuel system to start with then why the $3500??
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The lid is 330, fuel rail is 270, tensioner is 120, if you upgrade ur pulleys to smaller with bigger idlers that's 350, heat exchanger is 100-700 depending on goals, HX pump is 80-250 depending on goals. Fuel injectors, since most are cammed when they do the swap & push the blower harder injectors are needed. It can easily get to 3k+ in a hurry.
 

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I already have the DOD and a RCR cam swap done, so I will be getting the bigger 56lb injectors but I won't be pushing the blower harder bc I want the motor to live longer. Why do we need new fuel rails? Does the 56lb ones not work in ours? Plenty of guys are running stock fuel rails with over 700rwhp with no issue (in the LS world) so I'm just wondering do we NEED them or is it something most are just doing? Heat exchanger will be a basic one as I'm not going crazy on HP 500-600 is plenty. Just looking at this from a different perspective thats all.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The fuel for the LSA's cost 200-270. Zr1 rail has the inlet on the drivers side. Zl1 & cts-v have them on the passenger but still needs to purchased
 

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non LSA will not physically fit. 56# work, with no headroom (95-100%). ZL1 pump is fine if total stock, would use vaporworx to drive it with boost reference.

I suggest a ATI dampener, keep away from the stock wobble.

You can go cheap and marginal. I wanted dependability, that's not inexpensive.

FWIW, I'm on a BTR2 cam, 10% lower, made 540RWHP on a hub dyno on conservative 1st tune.
 

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#MurderG8
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^I'm running the ZL1 pump with regulator without issue. If I was to do it again I'd go ahead and get the cts-v pump and controller but that adds another 1k to the build.

The stock ls9 56's are maxed out with a stock pulley cammed setup. If you get the blower for 700 and somehow manage to not have to do fueling I can see you getting it all done for under $2500.

^ Its hard for me to grasp how it can cost so much if the actual blower itself costs around $700. I understand you need injectors and a fuel pump (but not sure why one would need a fuel pump when I only used a Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump on my stock C5 fuel pump) But unless you just wanted to upgrade your fuel system to start with then why the $3500??
I went into this wanting to pulley down so a zl1 pump and big injectors were mandatory for me. I also didn't want to run a bap or meth to prop up my fuel system. I just don't trust the bap and didn't want to risk a failure. Its the hidden cost that you aren't seeing. For example I had a vararam so I had to piece together a intake $150 (filter + 4" spectre piping + maf housing), fuel connection kit etc. The LSA is a build that you can do as cheap or as expensive as you want. For example I spent $70 on the engine cover, $60 on power steering relocation, coil relocation brackets etc :slap: If I add in the broken transmission we are heading for 5k real fast.
 
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