Pontiac G8 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Still have the 2009 G8 GT (not a 2009.5) at 89k miles and it needs suspension work. I'm not really a gearhead and pay mechanics to do my work for me, but I still like the car and want to keep it going and I have never done an extensive suspension job other than replace one bad component at a time. I had the ABS light issue the mechanic solved that issue by replacing a wheel sensor in the rear driver side wheel (that was fun to troubleshoot and diagnose). He showed me on the lift that the rear shock was blown and that a number of black rubber bushings, specially in the rear are basically falling apart. His recommendation was to replace the following components last time I spoke with him:

-front stabilizer bar bushings
-both rear sway bar links
-Two rear struts
-rear control arm bushings
-rear stabilizer bar bushings (optional)

As for symptom's car leans on driver side due to the blown shock and when it gets cold (40F or lower), it makes a rattling sound while driving. It goes away when it warms up. This has been going on for years and that was why I replaced a sway bar link but it didn't go away and I just put up with it. It also just doesn't feel like it did when I first bought it.

I started looking around on BMR, Whiteline's site and reading a lot of posts here and I started to think I should probably go ahead and replace more suspension components so I don't have to keep coming back for suspension work. The only suspension components that have ever been replaced are a sway bar link 5 years ago in the front and one strut from running a curb back when I first got the car (I'm original and only owner). Since I'm doing the rear shocks, the fronts may not be far behind and he is going to have the car up on the lift to replace bushings and rear shocks, so why not get more bushings and do the other shocks? This car is not for sport, more for highway driving to work on occasion since I work from home a lot. Up until the last year, the car was sitting in the sun for most of its life and the Texas heat probably didn't help the components under the carriage. Now, it spends most of its time in the garage after moving to a bigger house (and it's not the main family car which is an SUV). More research led to more parts getting added to my list, but I'm trying to figure out if I have a good list here or if I'm going overboard.

This is what I have come up with to add to the list along with part numbers and prices:

Struts:
1x - MONROE 553016 ($94.79)
1x - MONROE 553017 ($94.79)
2x - MONROE 553018 ($68.79)

OR Ac/Delco parts:
1x - ACDELCO 506882 - $99.79
1x - ACDELCO 506883 - $99.79
2x - ACDELCO 560726 - $84.79



Strut mounts:
1x - SuperPro AK SPF1590AK strut mount ($160)

Rear sway bar links:
2x - ACDELCO 45G20736 ($17.76) or 2x MOOG K750184 ($39.89)

Front sway bar links:
1x - MOOG K750162 ($19.25)
1x - MOOG K750163 ($19.56)

Whiteline poly bushings:
1x - Whiteline Rear Control arm - lower rear outer bushing (W63430) - $91.38
1x - Whiteline Rear Control arm - lower rear inner bushing (W63154A) - $54.74
1x - Whiteline Rear Control arm - upper front inner bushing (W63157) - $45.56
1x - Whiteline Rear Control arm - lower front outer bushing (W63155) - $54.74
1x - Whiteline Front Sway bar - mount bushing (W23153G) - $20.91
1x - Whiteline Rear Sway bar - mount bushing (W21484G) - $18.19
1x - Whiteline Rear Shock absorber - lower bushing (W33168) - $36.38

Whiteline has a sale going with 15% w/ free shipping and no sales tax and Rock Auto has a number of parts in stock. The only part that is not from these two sites is the SPF1590K which MA Performance has right now via ebay/amazon.

I was looking at Whiteline's Front Control Lower bushing and Front Radium arm Lower bushing but then I started doing research on the LCAs themselves. It sounds like a lot of people here have already replace theirs multiple times due to that ball joint, which cannot be replaced separately. In fact, I read the TSB about the winter rattling noise and probably should have had GM replace mine, but those are original. Is it possible the sound is my LCA arm on the driver side? I didn't talk to the mechanic about this yet but I don't think he really looked at that yet.

Rock Auto offers Mevotech, Moog and AC Delco. I saw a lot of Mevotech recommendations. Would the appopriate 4 front control arm parts be these?:
  • MEVOTECH CMS501097 (radius arm) - $73
  • MEVOTECH CMS501096 (radius arm) - $73
  • MEVOTECH CMS501098 (control arm) - $62
  • MEVOTECH CMS501099 (control arm) - $64

I am not looking to break the bank on control arms and mainly just want the suspension to be tight and last me for years of highway and light city driving. Also, I opted to just keep the stock springs as there is nothing wrong with the ones I have. I'm not trying to lower the car to the ground.

The questions I have here are:
1) Am I missing anything or should I remove anything?
2) Should I go with the AC/Delco version of these PPV struts or the Monroes? What is the difference? It appears the AC/Delco upgraded their warranty to lifetime while the Monroe's is now only 3 years. I think it used to be the opposite? AC/Delco rear struts are significantly more in cost.
3) With the struts, will the car ride higher, lower or the same? Any drawbacks to the new height?
4) How stiff of a ride will this be with stock springs and PPV the bushings I selected? Seems like those front strut mounts and the PPVs pair up nice. I don't mind it a little stiffer vs what I got right now, which is a floaty, squeaky mess.
5) Is the rear shock absorber bushing necessary for a Monroe 553018 (or AC/Delco) or does it have a good one already?
6) Should I get front control arm bushings or just get new control arms?
7) Which rear sway bar links are good for a light to medium cruiser? Big price difference between AC Delco and Moog.
8) Should I go ahead and replace the front sway bar links? He said they looked okay but it seems cheap to just go ahead and do them since they need to come off anyway and it seems like a cheap part.
9) Should I have him do an alignment or do I need to go somewhere special for that? I haven't asked him if he can do this, but he is very reasonable on all his services w/ full shop + garage/lift and seems pretty capable so far.

Anyway, I want to pull the trigger on these parts and get everything right the first time. I am trying to avoid having to buy anything major locally, but also don't want to buy things I don't need since I'll have to ship it back at my expense. We have autozone, advanced auto parts, o'reilly's etc. nearby for things we need to get it done if need be. He also mentioned I could swap out my brake pads if they are worn (brake job done 7 years ago w/ posi quiet pads and centric rotors). July 4th deals still going on for now but that will end soon.

Sorry for the long post, hope the experts on G8 suspensions can help me out!
 

·
Registered
2009 G8 GT
Joined
·
410 Posts
I went with the PPV Struts & Shocks on stock springs, sits a little higher but have I no issues with that, definetly stiffer than original s&s, but not harsh. Control arms I would replace, Mevotech or AC Delco. All those poly bushings on your list will give you a pretty harsh ride, I would go with Super Pro front and rear suspension kit, go to G8 Only, look under suspension and you can see the kit there, we all have our different opinions go with what you think is best with your goal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went with the PPV Struts & Shocks on stock springs, sits a little higher but have I no issues with that, definetly stiffer than original s&s, but not harsh. Control arms I would replace, Mevotech or AC Delco. All those poly bushings on your list will give you a pretty harsh ride, I would go with Super Pro front and rear suspension kit, go to G8 Only, look under suspension and you can see the kit there, we all have our different opinions go with what you think is best with your goal.

Hi there, thanks for the info. I was looking at the kit at Super Pro, Front and Rear Suspension Bushing Kit – G8Only.com. Is this the correct kit? Are you sure the Whiteline poly bushings are a harsh ride compared to these bushings? Aren't these also polyurethane bushings? I know the SPF1590AK is made from polyelast which is softer but what about these? Also, this does not seem to be the exact same set of bushings that I listed above and is missing the rear sway bar link bushing and includes a front control arm bushing which won't be necessary if I order new control arms.

What is the better front control arm? I read that Mevotech can't fit bushings because it's bigger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Definitely go with the SuperPro polyelast strut mount bushings. I went with the SuperPro radius arms because the savings isn't all that much to just buy the bushings, and of course then you have to press them in. Also SuperPro LCA's.

I used the Whiteline (front) end links and sway bar bushings. The stock end links were bad but the sway bar bushings were fine at 70k. Didn't do any rear suspension work because that all checked out okay.

I went with new FE2 struts and experienced no increase in harshness with all that fresh poly up front.
 

·
Registered
2009 G8 GT
Joined
·
410 Posts
Super Pro's are Elastomer not poly, will give you much nicer ride. Control arm I went with Dorman so far no issues at all. Strut top mount you picked, spot on, have not replaced sway bar end links so cant really give a fair judgment on them. Went with PPV because I didn't like the floaty feeling of FE2. Not sure what size rims your running wich will make a difference also, if 20's with all that Poly on will make it feel like a board going down the road, if your running 18's you have more tire cushion, find your end goal of ride comfort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,761 Posts
Make sure you get after market caster adjusters for the front. Just changing out the factory Fe2s for PPVs a few years ago caused the caster to shift resulting in a pull to one side. The factory installed caster bolts are non-adjustable so the alignment shop couldn't do anything about it.

Why after market? GM sells caster adjusters that only add or subtract 0.5 deg of caster (depending on which way you install them). The after market has cam style bolts so the caster can be fine tuned and provide more than 0.5 deg of adjustment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,732 Posts
I think someone is confusing caster with camber. Camber is adjusted where the strut bolts to the knuckle.
184905

This one must be backed off to allow full camber adjustment. Then it locks the camber in.

Caster is adjusted at front lower control arm bolt. The offset lock washers are the most popular. The stock flat plates are prone to wear and slipping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Make sure you get after market caster adjusters for the front. Just changing out the factory Fe2s for PPVs a few years ago caused the caster to shift resulting in a pull to one side. The factory installed caster bolts are non-adjustable so the alignment shop couldn't do anything about it.

Why after market? GM sells caster adjusters that only add or subtract 0.5 deg of caster (depending on which way you install them). The after market has cam style bolts so the caster can be fine tuned and provide more than 0.5 deg of adjustment.
I think I saw a post about this before. Which aftermarket caster bolts do you recommend? Will my mechanic be able to do the alignment if I have him install these or do I need to go to an alignment place?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Super Pro's are Elastomer not poly, will give you much nicer ride. Control arm I went with Dorman so far no issues at all. Strut top mount you picked, spot on, have not replaced sway bar end links so cant really give a fair judgment on them. Went with PPV because I didn't like the floaty feeling of FE2. Not sure what size rims your running wich will make a difference also, if 20's with all that Poly on will make it feel like a board going down the road, if your running 18's you have more tire cushion, find your end goal of ride comfort.
I have 19 inch wheels. My goal is a daily driver/cruiser and to hopefully not have to mess with the suspension again. I am not looking for a harsh ride. I am looking at superpro KIT175 which G8only says they have. Their site hides a lot of info but superpro usa's site says it includes:
  • Front Control Arm Lower-Inner Bush Kit
  • Front Strut Bar To Chassis Mount Bush Kit
  • Rear Control Arm Lower-Inner Bush Kit
  • Rear Control Arm Lower-Outer Bush Kit
  • Rear Control Arm Upper-Inner Rear Bush Kit
  • Rear Toe Control Arm Inner Bush Kit
  • Rear Trailing Arm Bush Kit
If you compare it to my own list, it does not include the sway bar bushings but has a control arm bushing and I am not sure what those last two do. I have been using whitelines site which has diagrams of where the bushings go. Superpro usa seems to be out of stock for many of their own bushings so it looks like you have to a kit from a different site. Is g8only pretty reputable?

Which control arms will work the bushings in the kit? And do you think the sway bar bushings being whiteline poly will add a lot of harshness? The bushings have probably been the most confusing thing about this project.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,445 Posts
Am not a suspension expert, but nonetheless will chime in with $.02. Kindly suggest repairing the front or rear at different times and getting things "squared away" before moving to the rest of the vehicle. Reason being, if many components are changed at once and the outcome is unsatisfactory, then it may be a little less difficult to pinpoint the culprit. Location? Perchance a fellow G8er can lend a hand if you're looking to curtail labor expenses. Presume you're keeping the stock front and rear stabilizer bars? Would definitely replace both struts and front swaybar links to maintain consistency. Where does the rattle seem to be coming from? The Monroe struts are severe PPV (Chevrolet Caprice) and many members have installed them with varying degrees of satisfaction. Will have to research the AcDelco, but they do have quite a few favorable reviews on Amazon. Lower control arm issues tend to sound more like a clunk or thud. Strut mounts, Best "rubber" strut mounts?. The Moog rear swaybar endlinks are greaseable but the AcDelco are not. Bear in mind, greaseable ball joints must be lubricated every so often. All things considered, the AcDelco rear endlinks should suit the bill for normal driving situations. On Rock Auto, Google the 5% off discount code. Copy and paste it in the how did you hear about us box for 5% off. Those are the correct part numbers for the Mevotech control arms. Stay away from the Moog lower control arms as they're the cheaper R-series line. Steer clear of the AcDelco advantage i.e. silver line as well. AcDelco original equipment or professional (gold) in that order are better alternatives. New struts should not change ride height. However, new strut mount especially if the current mounts are collapsed will alter the ride height. May want to research the forum for PPV struts and stock springs. Bear in mind, taste is subjective as in what one likes may not necessarily translate to another. Wouldn't bother pressing out the old and pressing in new bushings on the front lower control arms as it merely addresses the bushing, but not the ball joint. Replace the complete control arm(s) and call it a day. Can't judge the competency of the mechanic, but make sure who(m) does the alignment does a full alignment as many places simply straighten the steering wheel, set the toe and let it go. Purchase things online with PayPal and get return shipping on us if you decide to send them back .Can apply for return shipping up to thirty days after the money was refunded/issued with a maximum of twelve refunds per calendar year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Am not a suspension expert, but nonetheless will chime in with $.02. Kindly suggest repairing the front or rear at different times and getting things "squared away" before moving to the rest of the vehicle. Reason being, if many components are changed at once and the outcome is unsatisfactory, then it may be a little less difficult to pinpoint the culprit. Location? Perchance a fellow G8er can lend a hand if you're looking to curtail labor expenses. Presume you're keeping the stock front and rear stabilizer bars? Would definitely replace both struts and front swaybar links to maintain consistency. Where does the rattle seem to be coming from? The Monroe struts are severe PPV (Chevrolet Caprice) and many members have installed them with varying degrees of satisfaction. Will have to research the AcDelco, but they do have quite a few favorable reviews on Amazon. Lower control arm issues tend to sound more like a clunk or thud. Strut mounts, Best "rubber" strut mounts?. The Moog rear swaybar endlinks are greaseable but the AcDelco are not. Bear in mind, greaseable ball joints must be lubricated every so often. All things considered, the AcDelco rear endlinks should suit the bill for normal driving situations. On Rock Auto, Google the 5% off discount code. Copy and paste it in the how did you hear about us box for 5% off. Those are the correct part numbers for the Mevotech control arms. Stay away from the Moog lower control arms as they're the cheaper R-series line. Steer clear of the AcDelco advantage i.e. silver line as well. AcDelco original equipment or professional (gold) in that order are better alternatives. New struts should not change ride height. However, new strut mount especially if the current mounts are collapsed will alter the ride height. May want to research the forum for PPV struts and stock springs. Bear in mind, taste is subjective as in what one likes may not necessarily translate to another. Wouldn't bother pressing out the old and pressing in new bushings on the front lower control arms as it merely addresses the bushing, but not the ball joint. Replace the complete control arm(s) and call it a day. Can't judge the competency of the mechanic, but make sure who(m) does the alignment does a full alignment as many places simply straighten the steering wheel, set the toe and let it go. Purchase things online with PayPal and get return shipping on us if you decide to send them back .Can apply for return shipping up to thirty days after the money was refunded/issued with a maximum of twelve refunds per calendar year.
Thank you, lots of good tips in this post. I did read all the posts with stock springs PPV struts on here and it sounds a little stiffer and that is fine with me. Right now the ride is too sloshy and I have a rear shock that is blown. I was not away of the PayPal return shipping on us, that is really awesome!

If I do one thing at a time, then I guess I would only be doing the rear since the left driver side shock is blown and that is the major issue at the moment. This means I would hold off on the front until a later date and then have to come back and do more research, order more parts, and deal with the mechanic again. The mechanic basically told me that all this work would take him the whole day and he would charge me around $450 since the bushings will be a lot of work. If I do it two times, I may have to pay higher fee both times and spend more time on this project. I figure if I'm doing the rear shocks, may as well do the fronts since they may not be far behind. I started researching this board, looking at bushing kits and added more parts such as LCAs instead rather than just putting control arm bushings in based on posts about people replacing their LCAs many times on this board. I read the LCA TSB and maybe that is the issue with the winter freeze rattle sound on the driver side, but I have no idea. The front sway bar link replacement 5 years did not fix that and I paid a mechanic to fix this, so it's some other suspension part and I am getting tired of listening to that every time it gets cold. Mechanic things it's a bushing somewhere but he didn't do a deep diagnosis on that yet so I figure let's just start replacing suspension parts.
 

·
Registered
2009 G8 GT
Joined
·
410 Posts
Great recommendations PonyMan, especially getting the control arms replaced vs changing the bushings, strut top mounts replacement is also key.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,445 Posts
PayPal, go to the original payment versus where the money was credited for return shipping. $450 is a fantastic labor price. Quite awhile ago, the local dealership didn't "honor" the tsb due to (iirc) the lower control ball joint movement being within an acceptable tolerance (free play) range...ugh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
PayPal, go to the original payment versus where the money was credited for return shipping. $450 is a fantastic labor price. Quite awhile ago, the local dealership didn't "honor" the tsb due to (iirc) the lower control ball joint movement being within an acceptable tolerance (free play) range...ugh.
Awesome tip, that could definitely save me money since return shipping is not cheap for auto parts in general. The guy is very reasonable and independent and has been able to solve every single issue I've brought to him without charging me an arm and a leg and lets me watch him work. He seems to know suspensions so I think he will do a good job.

On the TSB issue, I didn't know about and now the car is 12 years old with 89k miles, out of all warranties, so I'm pretty sure the dealership isn't going to do anything for me and probably waste a lot of time and try to charge me a diagnosis fee.

I think I have narrowed it down to the Superpro front strut bushings, 4x Mevotech front LCAs, and the AC/Delco rear sway links, Moog front sway links and the AC/Delco PPVs (w/ lifetime warranty). All of this can be purchased from Rock Auto except the Superpro front strut mount bushings which I have sourced from MA Performance, although I don't know if this company is good or not (ebay reviews are crap). I still need to figure out which sets of bushings to buy and from where. Superpro elastomer bushings like the front strut mount bushings sounds great but that KIT175 part seems to have bushings I may not need.

Also need to figure out the caster stuff to make alignment easier so I guess I have more homework to do tonight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
A few points from my experience. I bought most of the stuff from G8 Only and everything arrived on cue.

The SuperPro LCA's came with offset caster plates that allowed for the car to align perfectly. We tried the bolts with lock washers but somehow that didn't work for us.

The car tracked perfectly and steering was super tight after the install.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,445 Posts
Last year, purchased a set of SuperPro SPF1590AK from down_under_direct (eBay) but it appears the listing was removed and contacted the seller. Can try bmr suspension (former forum vendor). Vaguely recall the mentioning of suspension.com as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Last year, purchased a set of SuperPro SPF1590AK from down_under_direct (eBay) but it appears the listing was removed and contacted the seller. Can try bmr suspension (former forum vendor). Vaguely recall the mentioning of suspension.com as well.
Actually, I was looking at suspension.com. Are they reputable? Seems like they have a lot of the stuff I need.

Also is this the caster washers that people are referring to for adjusting caster? Seems like Whiteline ones are recommended on here:
Part W53152

I'm assuming I need one set of these? I looked at the super pro LCA but I don't see any reference they come with these.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,445 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here is another question. The NVH issues with the bushings are kind of throwing me for a loop. I'm looking at the super pro kits but there does not seem to be as many options as Whiteline. Let's say I mix and match super pro and whiteline... which bushings will contribute the most to a harsh ride on 19" wheels? I'm getting the front strut mounts SPF1590AK already, but would sway bar bushings in whiteline poly contribute to a lot of harshness? What about some rear control arm bushings? I am still going to buy new links and arms most likely.

I may need to get the car on the lift and get a deeper inspection on bushings so I don't order too many. Do you think we can identify all worn bushings or do some of them need to be identified after components are pulled off the car?
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top