Can anyone point me to the location of the MAP Sensor on the LY7? Perhaps a picture?
So far I've done the following (all of which I wanted to do anyway, just because I bought it used and wasn't sure when the last time any of this was done was);So it is running rich, I would look into the EVAP purge solenoid by performing a purge and seal test with a scan tool. Or you could have a fuel injector leaking. The MAF or ECT sensors could be reading incorrectly also.
Okay, I took some live data. Maybe there's something of note in this, I'm not a mechanic so I don't know what the values for some of this should be.Monitoring the Fuel Tank pressure sensor for excess vacuum or performing a purge and seal test will let you know if the purge valve is open when it shouldnt be.
I changed the MAF sensor completely. Honestly I thought the same things and was asking about the map location.Would venture to say the problem you're experiencing is indicative of something further up in the system that provides information to both downstream sensors. Have never seen both catalytic converters nor downstream oxygen sensors go out on a vehicle although stranger things do happen. Moreover, since they are designed to worked independently of one another, the likelihood is even less probable. Likely culprits are a vacuum leak, defective map (manifold absolute pressure) or maf (mass airflow) sensor. Have you tried cleaning the mass airflow sensor? As far as the map sensor, couldn't locate it last night, but will give it another gander in the morning.
The map is yes. Noni do not hear any hissing sounds and the engine does not act like there's a vacuum leak. For example I do not see RPM fluctuations or anything of that sort. I personally ally was suspecting the injectors and am changing those this Sunday. But the Map sensor is another suspicion. I'm honestly hoping it's the MAP or injectors.Is the map sensor a Bosch as well? If replacing that doesn't do the trick then might want to thoroughly check for vacuum leaks. Do you hear hissing sounds while the car is running?
Oh. Well I'm am amateur and I was under the impression that vacuum leaks would should rpms fluctuations. I am absolutely open to the possibility it's a leak. As far as throwing parts at it so far the parts have been cheap fixes so I don't mind. Honestly I bought the car used a couple years back and I wanted to change the injectors anyway. I've done the plugs and a few minor things so far. There isn't a shop local I honestly trust.Very well. Oftentimes, the sound a broken or cracked vacuum line makes is barely audible and depending on its location may not significantly impact the performance of an engine. Don't recommend continuing to throw parts on the car if there is a competent repair facility nearby with both the knowledge and equipment necessary to properly diagnose the vehicle. However, if there are not any viable local options or thus far they have proven themselves incompetent, then at least you're narrowing down the range of possibilities . At any rate, best of fortune resolving your issues and be sure to update the thread regarding any progress. Will report back if able to locate the manifold absolute pressure sensor.
My main issues with mechanics near me has been the fact that they're just looking to sell as much as possible. I've caught mechanics in lies through my own research. I've seen them ignore diagnostic processes only to tell me there was a major issue with my vehicle, upon taking it to another place and telling them what happened finding that the fix was a simple $40 fix. This actually happened with my exhaust.Am not anywhere near a professional and even they can and have been wrong. Recently, just proved two wrong, but in the past they have proven me wrong. Automobile repair work is not an exact science as one must take into account a variety of variables. Have yet to meet a man or woman who/m is always right and suppose I never will.