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Discussion Starter #1
I'm nearly ready to reinstall the engine back into the car. I'm still waiting on the long tubes and flex fuel sensor. I don't think those will hold up the installation but I did have one question. During removal I took the heads off while the engine in the car. I found the worn cam bearings so decided on pulling the motor and going through the whole motor while it was out.

My question is, for installation, is it easier to install the motor with the heads on or off? The top trans bolts were a pain to get to and I could only imagine how much harder it would be with them on. Am I doing something wrong here? Are the bolts accessible from underneath the car? I was able to reach the side bolts from underneath with a really long extension.

Ideally, I would like to reinstall the top of the engine while the motor is on the stand because I can only imagine how much of a pain it will be to torque the heads while in the car judging by how difficult it was to reach some of them just for removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm also curious to know what kind of power numbers you guys think I'll get. When all is said and done the mods will be

BTR stage 2 cam, 3 bolt cam gear
Ls7 lifters/pushrods
BTR dual spring valve springs
New piston rings
Summit 25% UDP
Kooks 1 7/8 LTH
flex fuel sensor w/ e85
New cam bearings
Block has been freshly honed
(Plastigaged all main and rod bearings at or less than .002 so they are staying put)

Tune will be done by Ryan Cunningham (apparently he's a big deal in SoCal)

I may have missed some misc. parts like all new gaskets and stuff. I'm hoping for atleast 400 rwhp. Anything more than that, I'm not complaining.
 

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Torqueing the rear headbolts in the car is a challenge, but not impossible.
 

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I've done heads twice with motor in, not a problem.
Going FI in the future? Since you widened the ring gap, have a look at Straub head gaskets:

Straub Technologies

August 14, 2019 ·

LS Head Gasket replacement for MORE POWER!!!
Is there HP and RPM gain in head gaskets and cooling mods on your LS? Yes, and it’s been proven by Robert Yates Racing Engines in their continued development of the GM LS Spec engine for circle track application.
RYRE pulled a track tested engine out of a race car for endurance testing. The engine had the typical OEM type head gasket and cooling system that was run on the car. Testing also included using the radiator right out of the race car. During testing RYRE simulated the operating temps that the engines see, it was noticed in the overflow tank that the engine was off gassing out of the radiator cap. Some head scratching went on with the results of the engine and cooling system testing. Donnie Lewis, part of the RYRE development team and Art Leniti from Arts Radiators, started researching the LS engine program and GMs focus for the engine platform; emissions legal for the EPA and better fuel economy. Donnie’s and Art’s research revealed that GM achieved this through HEAT!! The higher the operating temperature is related to fuel operating temperature, the higher the fuel mileage and less emissions due to the heat that is needed for the catalytic converter to function efficiently. As more fuel is burned, there is more energy generated. In the confined space of a cylinder, this increases the pressure - and hence the temperature, which is converted, via the Otto cycle and the engine design, into mechanical energy to operate the engine. The energy realized is related to the temperature difference - the higher the combustion temperature and the lower the discharge temperature - the higher the efficiency of the engine and the improved fuel economy. In addition, to meet EPA efficiency and emission regs, OEM manufactures use 200 or even 210 Degree thermostats.
We all know running an engine cooler will produce more HP, but sacrifices fuel economy. RYRE needed performance and reliability for the spec engine. Inspection of the head gaskets revealed that GM limited the water around the combustion chamber to maintain the higher temperature. Additional evidence of an imbalance in cooling between the right and left head was evident because of the factory plumbing. RYRE modified the plumbing to consist of equal length lines with a T in the middle running to an expansion tank just under the radiator cap. This allows the gases to leave the heads equally.
RYRE pulled the stock gaskets off the test engine and punched 7 missing holes in the head gaskets. Being that this engine was a spec engine, power output and rpm range of power was well documented. These engines when reaching temp had always “laid over” on the straightaways and just quit pulling. RYRE’s cooling system modifications with parts from Art’s Radiators by RYRE were quite amazing. A simple few holes and some plumbing changes to add additional cooling and release off gases allowed the engine to continue pulling through the entire rpm range! All of this was from modification to the cooling system. Additional track testing showed that the engines ran cooler on the track.
At the end of the day, Donnie Lewis of RYRE used simple physics to convert an EPA emissions engine into a 600HP NA race engine that runs to 7800 rpm!!!!
Straub Tech’s relationship with RYRE has given us the opportunity to take this tech and turn it into a product for the performance LS customer. Available in small bore and large bore, the Straub Tech MLS gasket features the additional cooling holes that allow for more HP and higher rpm!!
346-4031P LS Small Bore Gasket for 4.8, 5.3, and 5.7 For Off Road Use Only. $59.95 Each.
346-4411P LS Large Bore Gasket for 6.0 and 6.2 For Off Road Use Only. $59.95 Each.
Plumbing kits for the “off gassing” are in development now and should be released in the next few months. For now, we advise you to equalize the lengths left to right with a T in the center. Plumb the center port of the T to the system you are using the vent the off gassing. If using the radiator, your best to drill and put fittings closest to the radiator cap. If your using an expansion tank, mount the tank at the highest point of the cooling system
346-4444 Complete plumbing kit to vent heads to radiator This includes 6' of -4 Black Braided Hose. Will need to drill and tap radiator for 2 1/8" NPT fittings. Kit is complete with all fittings needed $159.99








 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting read. Seems like an easy enough modification but I already have brand new gaskets on hand. I'm not too concerned with getting every ounce of hp out of this engine just yet but if and when I eventually decide to do some head work or another cam swap then that's definitely a good mod to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I should be a hostage negotiator. Just convinced my wife I need a VCM OTR intake. I'm not even sure what else I need now. I told her I was done buying car parts for atleast a year if she gave me the OK to get the intake. That's long enough to save up for a maggy I'd say 😁.
 

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Good read about the additional coolant flow. Matching the coolant passages in the block and heads to the gaskets only makes sense. Was going to add the rear head cross over anyway. Your going to love the VCM intake.
 

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I'm nearly ready to reinstall the engine back into the car. I'm still waiting on the long tubes and flex fuel sensor. I don't think those will hold up the installation but I did have one question. During removal I took the heads off while the engine in the car. I found the worn cam bearings so decided on pulling the motor and going through the whole motor while it was out.

My question is, for installation, is it easier to install the motor with the heads on or off? The top trans bolts were a pain to get to and I could only imagine how much harder it would be with them on. Am I doing something wrong here? Are the bolts accessible from underneath the car? I was able to reach the side bolts from underneath with a really long extension.

Ideally, I would like to reinstall the top of the engine while the motor is on the stand because I can only imagine how much of a pain it will be to torque the heads while in the car judging by how difficult it was to reach some of them just for removal.
I'd say it would be easier to bolt tranny back up with heads off. Im doing my build now as well (in car), my heads are off and seems like lots of room back there with heads off for ratchet.
 

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Looking good BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks.

Side question, should I paint the block or naa? At first I was thinking no but I'm starting to feel like I want to. Maybe flat black. I'm already in the process of cleaning up the crossmembers and prepping to spray them as they have a bit of surface rust at the joints.
 

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Thanks.

Side question, should I paint the block or naa? At first I was thinking no but I'm starting to feel like I want to. Maybe flat black. I'm already in the process of cleaning up the crossmembers and prepping to spray them as they have a bit of surface rust at the joints.
Chevy orange? 🤟🤔😁
 

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On a Pontiac!!! I was looking to get the Pontiac styled valve covers. Be like my ‘69 GTO all owner again
184094
 

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But is it really a Pontiac? 😁 GM orange!
 

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Mine has arrow heads, not bowties
 

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Touche, mine has a lion rolling a stone.
 
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