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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Now is the time for me to finally do my DOD delete, install a Pat G custom cam/tune and Rick's TB, his intake and his fine headwork on my G8.
Here is the set-up I'll be doing:

Car already has:
Rotofab intake, dry filter, thanks Ike
Kooks 1 7/8 long tube headers
Kooks high flow cats
Kooks 3" X-pipe merging into a Magnaflow #12468 Tru-x mid muffler
Kooks mid pipes 2.5"
Hooker SS Maxflo mufflers 2.5" in 3.5" tips
Old tune 350 whp and 359 wtq.

I have to install a DOD delete kit
LS3 intake valves
Comp Cams trunnion kit
7.400 chromoly push rods from Brian Tooley
.660 lift Platinum dual springs w/titanium retainers from Brian Tooley
I will be getting the heads milled 0.010

I'm gonna have a Rick Crawford TB, awesome intake and port/polished heads, I'll be sending them out shortly so everyone stop sending him your stuff so he can focus on MY stuff!
I am currently on the road working so I have a very small window to do this install, basically tear-down Memorial week and install July 4th week.

Cam is one I haven't seen before, so it should be pretty cool to see the results and compare them to others here on the board.
Specs are: EPS cam
224 228 .629 .629 on a 114 +4

Of course it's gonna be tuned by one of the best, Pat G! He also spec'd out the cam and other stuff for me.

All going on my daily driver G8 with stock stall.

So it should be pretty fun, never did a DOD delete before let alone a cam install on a push rod engine. Been reading a lot of cam install posts to pick up hints on this engine, plus I have the Helms manuals for torque numbers etc. Should be a nice little beast when I'm done and hopefully I'll fall between The Yeti and Troy Trackbeast....a man has to have goals

So, what are people's thoughts?
Anything else I should get while I'm at it?
 

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you should have done a stall.

my PatrickG cam is crazy big. I think its gonna rock out with my rooster out

subscribed!
 

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Might have another 11 second stock converter build here. I'm looking forward to see your results. Now that I have a stall I'm thinking about switching to a bigger cam.
 

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matt we might goto Steele Friday night and do some runs..

come join us...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Good questions all.
I'm staying with the stock stall because I'm more of a road racer and not sure I would like the feel, but that might change come next year.

I can't mill the heads much because of the tight PTV clearance. If I fly cut the pistons or went with a different cam (like one if I had a converter installed) then I could be more aggressive. Edit...I had the heads milled 0.010

I may do the LS7 MAF with a 4" coupler, it's all about air in/air out isn't it?

Reason I posted this thread is to show everyone another option and let people see the results of a different cam, look forward to showing everyone the results.
 

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Sounds amazing! Just another fast Hot White g8 running around. There can never be too many. I agree with Troy, MIT as well slap the ls3 maf and housing on it while you have it all apart. Good luck, I'm sure everything will go fine,
 

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You might want to consider longer pushrods. I went with the LS7 lifters, stock head gasket, and a .603 lift cam. I measured the lifter preload with the 7.400's and came up with about .065". From what I understand the range you want to shoot for is .060 to .100. According to Brian (Tooley, who I also bought my springs and pushrods from - great guy), stock lifter preload is .100. I tried the 7.400's but the motor clacked a bit too much for my taste, so I went with the 7.425's which sounded much better. With your larger lift, your base circle is likely to be even smaller than mine, thus the need for longer pushrods. True the thinner head gasket will help, but just a tad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info, but I talked to Pat G. and Brian about the length and they both said to use the 7.400 since I'm going with milled heads 0.010, otherwise they said they would suggest the 7.425 like yours.
 

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I think that +4 power is going to come on quick. I would rethink a +1 or 2. I'm on a 222/226 112+3 & have little chance of hooking in 1st gear. 275 rears & warm temps (70+) do the trick though.
 

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I just did my DOD delete a few weeks ago, so it's pretty fresh in my mind. I'm sure you've researched the threads and have the tools you need. Here is a thread started by todd87ss that I added my thoughts to. We were both LS teardown noobs as well.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65840

If you have any questions post up or pm me next weekend. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just did my DOD delete a few weeks ago, so it's pretty fresh in my mind. I'm sure you've researched the threads and have the tools you need. Here is a thread started by todd87ss that I added my thoughts to. We were both LS teardown noobs as well.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65840

If you have any questions post up or pm me next weekend. Good luck!

Will do, and I have read that thread a few times, good pointers.

I'm gonna be on a tight time-line as not only am I doing this cam install, I'm also going to be packing up to move as we just about sold our house and we should be out around July 7th or 8th, depending on inspections and paper work and all that. But my lovely wife is letting me do this install first so hopefully I can get this done in 2 or 3 days after my heads and everything comes back. I'll just have to have everything installed and ready for the heads/intake and TB.
 

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subd, i wanna c these results
 

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Good questions all.
I'm staying with the stock stall because I'm more of a road racer and not sure I would like the feel, but that might change come next year.

I can't mill the heads much because of the tight PTV clearance. If I fly cut the pistons or went with a different cam (like one if I had a converter installed) then I could be more aggressive. As it is i'll gain more quench from a .045 Cometic head gasket than if Rick milled .010 off the head...so both Rick and Pat G suggested the head gasket as the better of the two for my set-up.

I may do the LS7 MAF with a 4" coupler, it's all about air in/air out isn't it?

Reason I posted this thread is to show everyone another option and let people see the results of a different cam, look forward to showing everyone the results.
+1

Most people here told me my cam was waaaay too big for not having a stall. But tuning the trans,injector and timing, I idle at 750, good vacuum and very little surge. Mine is also more for road racing so I'm on the cam when the flag drops. My heads are milled 0.015 and PV is around 0.058 but with my lifters and springs ,I'm not worried.

Doing a custom as opposed to a package takes a lot more figuring but in the long run you will produce more power. With my setup i ended up using 7.100 pushrods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Started the preliminary work:


Fuel rail set aside (which later slips and cuts my head, grrrrr!) Intake removed.

Valley cover removed.

One head removed, finally. It was a real pain in the butt to remove the head with the headers in the way, hindsight I should have worked much harder at moving them out of the way. Also, like everyone said, pulling the wire harness retainers on the back of the heads is not fun, they just don't want to come off. Oh, also a good thing to mention is pulling the radiator, it hooks under the condenser so when you lift it, so you can get one side out, then try to work the other side out, the first side drops back in, then vise versa ad infinitium, or at least 10 min too long to do what you think is simple.


I used my shop vac to suck out the excess coolant from the port on either of the heads as I've seen others do on this board, worked awesome because when I pulled off the heads their wasn't a drip! Thanks guys.


Do this to your transmission's lines before you lose as much ATF I did. I just put a baggie around them(see pics 5 and 6 in this post/baggy with black tape) and thought I would only get a couple drips, when I came out the next morning, there was quite a lot of ATF on the garage floor, now I'm gonna have to fill it before start up.


Water pump pulled

With all the terror stories about the oil pump and attaching the bolts and worrying about dropping them and everything else, I decided to pull the oil pan off. I simply pulled the nuts off the engine mounts from below, put my jack with a trimmed 2x6 to spread the weight and jacked it up a few inches and put some 2x2 wood blocks in there and dropped the pan. No messing with the steering, just simply removing bolts and dropping the pan.

And this is where I stopped as I don't have my cam yet, had a huge honey do list, kids soccer/baseball games and had to travel out of town for work.
 

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Good stuff man. Awesome you are taking this build on.

I've been waiting a long time to see what you are going to do with this car.

Eagerly looking forward to your build progress...
 

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Subscribed. I am very curious to see the results like the others. This is exactly what I would like to do and keep the stock stall. Nice car, best of luck to you on this build.
 

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Awesome thread, very nice write up so far. Can't wait to see the end results, its going to be a nice street monster.
 
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