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Hey guys,
It's time for my G8's first oil change. Instead of paying an endless stream of cash to Jiffy Lube to do this, I think it's about time that I learn how to change a car's oil myself. Besides, it makes me feel more connected to my baby. :)

So I'm looking for general advice. I know the basics - I need to jack up the car, remove the drain plug, let the oil drain out, replace the filter ... I'm guessing this is on top of the engine compartment, replace the drain plug, and refill with oil. But since this is my first oil change ever, I thought you could impart some friendly advice, namely...

- I'm thinking of using ramps instead of jacks. Do I need to buy four ramps - or just two for the front end? And does anybody recommend a particular brand?

- Do I need any special equipment to remove the oil filter and/or drain plug besides a wrench?

- Any other general advice? Thanks in advance!
 

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You don't need a jack, get a decent pair of ramps and you'll be good to go.
 

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Filter's near the bottom

You'll need an oil filter wrench - looks like this:
 

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You may need a filter wrench if its on too tight but other than no special tools.
 

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Have sufficient oil. You do realized about 8.8 quarts, jes! :)

One thing I always used to do back in my days of oil changing was add oil to the filter before installing. Make sure to subtract the amount added from the total required.

I don't know if that trick is used anymore... I haven't changed my own oil in about '95 when I sold my Fbird.

Also, you've done the change, run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off, then check for leaks. I have had a few too many experiences with the wonderful folks at Jiffy Lubes and loose drain plugs or filters.
 

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... I'm guessing this is on top of the engine compartment,
:err:

With that said... read the owner's manual to verify where you put the fresh oil in.:rolleyes:
 

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Houston GTG Dude
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Mobil Preformance Oil!
 

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Congrats on taking the plunge to get to know your car better. A piece of advice is when you remove the drain plug, do so slowly. Otherwise you'll have a face full of oil along with your arm and shirt covered. If the engine is warm, the oil drains faster, but you will burn yourself, so its best to change it when the engine is cool. When replacing the oil drain plug, be careful not to cross thread it when you reinstall it. There is also a seal on the drain plug that you want to make sure doesn't fall off. Don't over tighten the drain plug. You can and will strip the bolt hole. Snug is the rule of thumb. Same thing goes with the oil filter. Twist it on till the gasket sets and then usually 1/2 to 2/3s of a turn tighter. Hand tight only. The filter will tell you how much to tighten it. Also make sure to clean any dirt or old oil off the filter housing with a rag before installing the new filter for a good seal. Take some fresh oil on your finger and run your finger around the seal on the oil filter and the threads before you install the oil filter. Refill with oil and start the car. Check the level on the dip stick. Check for leaks before you pull off of the ramps.
 

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These worked well for me.

Blitz Rhino ramps. Around 34 Dollars .

Product Features


Features non-skid feet for safety
17-degree incline
8,000 pound capacity
Great for low vehicles
Features a stop...
 

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Do a search on Youtube.. some things on there are questionable but at least you can get the jist of it. It really isn't that hard once you've done it once.

I don't think anyone hit this one yet.. two ramps, just the front wheels :)

I fill the filter before putting it on as well.

And before you ask how to reset the computer... check the manual ;)
 

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ramps, filter wrench to remove filter and tighten filter by hand good and tight, 13mm
tool for the drain plug, also do NOT reef on the drain plug when you re-install it, cause of the alum. oil pan, I'm guessing maybe 10-15 ft. lbs. I do this for a living and do it by feel, you do not need to put oil in the new filter, but wipe clean the mating surface and put fresh oil on the filter gasket install and tighten, then put in 9qts. oil, if you are going
to drain the bottles completely leave the last bottle about a 1/4 full, the best thing you could do is buy a Fumoto Valve, install once and never have to worry about the oil pan threads being pulled out, I have a couple left for sale, 35.00 shipped, good piece of mind with this valve, check them out.

Ron
 

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Plastidip is awful
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Mobil 1 oil is good, but better is Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula (also will say made in Germany on the back of the bottle). Autozone sells it if you have those in your area.
 

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I wouldn't worry so much about the oil - castrol, mobil 1, lots and lots of other synthetics are perfectly fine for use int the car. I think people get waaaaay too picky about the oil. You'd have to go pretty far down into the cheapie dinos to get oil that isn't very good. Even then, it won't 'hurt' your engine, it will just degrade more quickly, requiring a quicker oil change. See bobistheoilguy.com for unbiased oil info.
That being said, you can't go wrong with Castrol syntec or Mobil 1. Or any number of others. You can even run 10w-30 if you want a smoother-running engine but crappier gas mileage.
 

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Good luck and just take your time. Make sure you get an oil pan that will hold at least 10 quarts of oil and I suggest one of the closed top ones that has a drain on it. I bought a 15 quart one at Autozone a few years ago when I realized the 7 quarts in my wife's Trailblazer was not going to fit in my 6 quart pan. I also always wear safety glasses when I am under the car because of dirt and grease falling down. Got some in my eye one time and hurt like hell so now I always wear the glasses.

Also, read the owner's manual to see how to reset the Oil Life Monitor. You just need to turn the key to On, and press the gas pedal all the way down 3 times in 5 seconds and check in Engineering Mode the next time you start the car and the Oil Life should be back at 100%.
 

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Vtac kicked in yo!!!
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You may want to check to make sure that the rubber gasket from the old oil filter came off with the filter. If it stays on you will have a double gasket when you put the new oil filter on, this is not good. My buddy did this on his Hon"Duh" and the gaskets blew from to much pressure and sprayed oil everywhere emptying his pan. Luckily he shut the engine down in time. He thought he blew the engine because the sound was pretty loud when it went.
 

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You may want to check to make sure that the rubber gasket from the old oil filter came off with the filter. If it stays on you will have a double gasket when you put the new oil filter on, this is not good. My buddy did this on his Hon"Duh" and the gaskets blew from to much pressure and sprayed oil everywhere emptying his pan. Luckily he shut the engine down in time. He thought he blew the engine because the sound was pretty loud when it went.
I've done this on a car before. It's been many years, but I have never forgotten to triple check for that old gasket since.
 

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Oh, and another important thing to note: Do NOT!!!!!!!! buy a Fram brand filter. Buy Bosch, or even AC Delco.
 

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Good foryou doing your own oil change. I like to do my own on my bike but skip it on my car these days.

But, you have been provided some good advice. My only additional advice is to take your time. Use gloves to prevent oil from being soaked into your skin. And be sure to recycle the used oil.
 
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