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I did it that way. It's been running fine since September. I hardly ever used manual mode before but I find myself using the paddles all the time now.
Good to hear! Can you note exactly what you did with the other ends of the green wire that you didn't tap to, including what you did with end still connected to the wheel, and the loose end at the back end of the clock spring that you didn't splice onto? Did you tap both of them to a different ground somewhere, i.e. whatever is providing the other ground in the wheel? I really don't want to screw this up...
 

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On the wheel side I tied the ground that I cut back to the grounding screw in the wheel. I used the same screw for the paddle ground also.

On the stationary side I just capped the end of the wire since it serves no purpose anymore.
 

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Great, thanks again.

As for one of my other questions - is everyone doing this install with the key in to allow turning of the wheel as mentioned in the first post?
 

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I'm going to weigh in a bit with my *opinion* on the use of the ground wire rather than the LED wire.

At the steering wheel, there is a 'ground' and there is a 'low reference.' The difference between the two is that the 'ground' point is essentially a chassis ground for the steering wheel, most likely used for safety considerations due to the electric supply circuits run within it, whereas the 'low reference' is the signal ground connected directly to the ground bus at the control module, in this case the BCM. This ground is then bonded through an additional wire to the chassis ground. When the BCM reads a voltage input, it's going to compare it to its reference ground, which is wired directly and externally as the 'low reference' wire. When you use a separate (chassis) ground rather than the direct 'low reference' wire, the ground path to the BCM is going to have a slightly different impedance than if you used the 'low reference' wire for a direct connection, which will subsequently have a slight effect on the resulting voltage at its input. However, since this is not a high current nor high speed communication curcuit, and we're dealing with fairly substantial resistance differences to supply the voltage changes to the input, the resulting variation in the voltage at the BCM due to an ohm or two difference in the ground return path is most likely going to be negligible in terms of operation unless the other ground is somehow compromised. I also wouldn't expect there to be a substantial difference in 12 V system noise between the two grounds when considering the expected voltage variation at the input, with the input also likely having lowpass filters to keep the signal clean. As such, I wouldn't expect there to be any noticeable negative effects from wiring this way and I'll be trying it myself in a few weeks.

Anyone who has installed it this way, though, please keep us in the loop if you have any unexpected troubles, in which case I'd gladly reconsider my position on this.
 

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You couldn't have said it any better! I have never had any ill consequences from using the low reference wire. I imagine you would not have any problems too. Let me know if you have any questions.


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You couldn't have said it any better! I have never had any ill consequences from using the low reference wire. I imagine you would not have any problems too. Let me know if you have any questions.


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My only other question for now is as I mentioned previously - is everyone doing this with the key in to allow the steering wheel to be turned to help with removal?
 

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For those who have done this, how much room is there behind the shroud to mount things with depth? I'd like to add an additional momentary button switch for switching from manual back to sport auto, but I'm not sure what depth of switch can be accommodated.
 

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You mean under the shroud? To give you an idea of how much room is behind wheel with the paddles...if you pull your washer fluid arm for your wipers, it will hit the paddle...same your your flash for the brights on the other side. As far as another switch next to the paddles, can't really help you there.


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Sorry, I'll be more specific. I'm wondering how much depth there is internal to steering wheel on the enclosed face of the shroud where the wiring is. I would like to mount the additional switch, but I'm concerned that it may protrude too far into the steering wheel behind the shroud and contact something, likely stopping the shroud from remounting properly. I'm aware of the possible issues with the stalks as well, but I believe the paddles I ordered should be low profile enough to avoid the problem.
 

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Ah...I figured that's what you meant after I posted the reply. I can't say for sure it's been so long since I did the project. I do remember there being plenty of room behind where the paddle switches are. As far as inside of that towards the steering column...I can't say for sure. I think there was some room in there though.
 

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Thanks. There is one surefire way for me to find out in a couple weeks :)
 

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I had the key in the ignition only when I had to move the steering wheel.

I did my install as listed in the original thread and started having issues about two weeks before I wrecked the car. Unrelated ;-) When in manual mode sometimes the shifters would not work and sometimes the up shift button would cause me to downshift. Once I used them for a bit they seemed to start working more reliably until the next time the car sat for a few hours.

I was planning on taking it apart over the winter but hit a wall first ;-( Could this be the grounding issue that is being discussed?

Either way, I want to do this again on the new G8 but can't get a hold of dblaron who fabbed up my first set. Anyone hear from him recently?
 

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I got mine started today with the camaro paddles. You can actually get them to sit almost perfectly flush if you position them in the perfect spot. I have one right and the other a bit crooked, but it'll be impossible to tell one it's installed. If anyone needs to know how to tap into the switch, let me know as there are a few nuances to consider...

I'm also going to do an early tap into the wire at the BCM to confirm what resistance triggers the toggle from manual to sport, then add another button for that.



 

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Can anyone confirm with any level of certainty what resistor value switches from manual back to sport? I have seen two schools of thought in this thread - one that notes a 68k resistor works, and another that mentions a simple connection to ground does it. I'll do a bit of testing in the next few days to see if I can replicate the behavior with these values and possibly others, but I'm curious if anyone other than the original posters of the values has confirmed either method.
 

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Can anyone confirm with any level of certainty what resistor value switches from manual back to sport? I have seen two schools of thought in this thread - one that notes a 68k resistor works, and another that mentions a simple connection to ground does it. I'll do a bit of testing in the next few days to see if I can replicate the behavior with these values and possibly others, but I'm curious if anyone other than the original posters of the values has confirmed either method.
I have nothing useful to add...but am interested in someone putting a package together for me with paddles. My dremmel and soldering skills leave much to be desired ;-)
 

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I had the key in the ignition only when I had to move the steering wheel.

I did my install as listed in the original thread and started having issues about two weeks before I wrecked the car. Unrelated ;-) When in manual mode sometimes the shifters would not work and sometimes the up shift button would cause me to downshift. Once I used them for a bit they seemed to start working more reliably until the next time the car sat for a few hours.

I was planning on taking it apart over the winter but hit a wall first ;-( Could this be the grounding issue that is being discussed?

Either way, I want to do this again on the new G8 but can't get a hold of dblaron who fabbed up my first set. Anyone hear from him recently?
If you did your install as in the original thread using the LED wire, I don't think it would be related to the grounding concern. The grounding concern, to my knowledge, is simply related to the use of the low reference ground wire rather than the LED wire and whether or not the chassis ground is an appropriate replacement for the low reference, which I haven't heard being a problem. However, you aren't the first person to note an issue with it causing an upshift or downshift when the opposite was commanded. Can anyone else chime in? I wonder if this has to do with any stray impedance in the circuit, temperature dependence of the resistors (did you use metal film type?), poor connections, etc. Hopefully anyone else who has had the issue can chime in with their experience.

EDIT: One thing that's very much worth checking is the circuit resistance when the buttons/switches are not depressed. With the Camaro shifters, particularly the one with two internal resistors, I found that I had to physically clip out the existing internal resistors to get an open resistance in the megohm range. Without doing that, and even though I was tapping directly to the switch contacts, the resistors were still in circuit and providing an extra path to ground, resulting in an overall resistance of something like 4.5kohm without depressing the paddle. Also, there will be some high impedance in any switch, which will also depend on temperature as the distance between contacts expands or reduces. This may also be the cause of your issue.
 

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Has anyone looked into doing this with the new Chevy SS paddles. They look pretty nice!
They look the same as the new Camaro paddles that I used for mine.



 

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I finished up my install today with the camaro paddles. I used the low reference ground wire and made sure everything that previously grounded through the low reference is now grounded to the wheel ground. I also added an extra button for switching back to auto from manual and located it where it can be easily accessed, but wouldn't be bumped inadvertently. I tested a straight ground, 68 ohm, and 68 kohm for this button. The direct ground and 68 ohm worked, but the 68k didn't do anything, so I presume the poster who thought they accidentally grabbed a 68k probably had a 68 instead. I used a direct ground since the resistance ahead in the voltage divider would limit current.

Everything works great, but I did notice one nuance. Sometimes, when in manual mode and hitting the button to go back to auto, it would put me in normal drive rather than sport. However, I also noticed this in the past when slapping the shifter too quickly from the manual position to drive and back to sport that it would stay in normal drive, so it just seems to be something with the way it monitors. A double tap seems to guarantee it works, though, from my limited testing.

 

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Nice work Aaron, very clean!
 
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