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Below is how I have my paddles connected (large picture to ensure the text shows up):



I haven't shown the extra button I added to switch from manual to auto mode, but you shouldn't need it if you're just looking to update your wiring to get your LED lighting back.

At the back of the clockspring, you'd have to untap and reconnect your cut purple LED wire sections to put them to how they were before the original install, then cut/tap the green ground wire the same as you did previously with the purple wire (making sure to tap the section coming from the clock spring and capping the other). If you have any questions about that or any other part, just let me know and I'll give you a hand.

As for a youtube video, I don't think I want to tear my install apart to make one...

*EDIT: I've shown the wiring runs for clarity, but you'll have to ensure they're run around the outside as much as possible so they don't interfere with airbag and horn operation.*
 

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BigCasnio
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dude this is perfect. I'm going to tackle this this week for sure. Thanks for that diagram I really appreciate it. If I remember I will make a youtube video.
 

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Guys I need some help Please!!! I got the paddles from GMParts direct last week and decided to jump into this project on Sunday. I got everything installed and got all the resistors installed however I noticed when I tested the left paddle it was giving me a value of over 1K ohms when hitting it without installing the wiring with the resistor. This should not be the case as it should go down to 0. I tested with the wiring on just in case and all it does is it adds the 220 ohms to the value. I thought the switch was bad and decided to purchase a new at the dealer but the new switch does exactly the same thing. I tested wiring it up with the car but only the right paddle shifts the left does nothing. Please any imput would be greatly appreciated.

FYI the paddles I am using are the PN:13297281 (left) 13297283 (right)

Thanks in advance
 

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I ran into the same type of problem. I'm on the road right now but will respond with more details tonight, including pictures of my switch internals and the wiring points to get it working. Don't worry too much, we'll get it figured out.
 

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Ok, first off, if you're using the connector portion of the camaro paddles, that won't end up working. There are two raised portions on the inside of the paddles, one with a threaded fitting and the other being the connector with pins. Both of these need to be cut off essentially flush to be able to fit within the space in the wheel.

Next, try tapping into the positions on the boards as shown below (with modification details following and resistors wired inline after some of the wiring):



The left one in the photo is the downshift paddle, the right is the upshift. For the upshift paddle, you can see the two points that I soldered to that normally connect to the raised connector. That worked fine for me.

However, the downshift paddle needed some modifications. With the soldered points as shown above, I was still getting a ~4k resistance without the paddle pressed. I had to use wire cutters to physically cut out the two surface mount resistors to take them out of the circuit. After doing that I was getting a much higher open resistance (there will always be some in a switch) and it works great.

This is what the downshift paddle looked like after the resistors were removed:



With these modifications, I was getting a high resistance open and very low resistance close. From there I wired the respective resistors inline and installed from there.

Hopefully this works for you. If not, check in and I can try to help you troubleshoot.

Edit: if you're concerned with the open resistance, I confirmed when installing that a 68k resistance triggered to the BCM line (as opposed to the 220 or 680 ohm to shift) has no effect on shifting. Therefore, as long as your resistance without the paddle depressed is over that, you should have no issues (I don't know the actual lower limit though).
 

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BigCasnio
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I got the wires swapped today, not near as complicated as I remembered it. When I got the airbag off it took a second to see what was going on then it all came back to me. I broke the 50m torx so I couldn't get the wheel off, so I grounded the eyelet behind where the silver trim attached to the wheel. Not what I would have liked, but the job is done. Got them swapped and I now have LEDs working perfectly and shifters also work flawlessly. Costar had been shipped and I'm looking forward to getting that going. Thanks Aaron, and if anyone else needs help with this I'll do my best to contribute.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Ok, first off, if you're using the connector portion of the camaro paddles, that won't end up working. There are two raised portions on the inside of the paddles, one with a threaded fitting and the other being the connector with pins. Both of these need to be cut off essentially flush to be able to fit within the space in the wheel.

Next, try tapping into the positions on the boards as shown below (with modification details following and resistors wired inline after some of the wiring):



The left one in the photo is the downshift paddle, the right is the upshift. For the upshift paddle, you can see the two points that I soldered to that normally connect to the raised connector. That worked fine for me.

However, the downshift paddle needed some modifications. With the soldered points as shown above, I was still getting a ~4k resistance without the paddle pressed. I had to use wire cutters to physically cut out the two surface mount resistors to take them out of the circuit. After doing that I was getting a much higher open resistance (there will always be some in a switch) and it works great.

This is what the downshift paddle looked like after the resistors were removed:



With these modifications, I was getting a high resistance open and very low resistance close. From there I wired the respective resistors inline and installed from there.

Hopefully this works for you. If not, check in and I can try to help you troubleshoot.

Edit: if you're concerned with the open resistance, I confirmed when installing that a 68k resistance triggered to the BCM line (as opposed to the 220 or 680 ohm to shift) has no effect on shifting. Therefore, as long as your resistance without the paddle depressed is over that, you should have no issues (I don't know the actual lower limit though).

Worked like a charm!!! Thanks AAron!!!
 

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Ok, first off, if you're using the connector portion of the camaro paddles, that won't end up working. There are two raised portions on the inside of the paddles, one with a threaded fitting and the other being the connector with pins. Both of these need to be cut off essentially flush to be able to fit within the space in the wheel.

Next, try tapping into the positions on the boards as shown below (with modification details following and resistors wired inline after some of the wiring):



The left one in the photo is the downshift paddle, the right is the upshift. For the upshift paddle, you can see the two points that I soldered to that normally connect to the raised connector. That worked fine for me.

However, the downshift paddle needed some modifications. With the soldered points as shown above, I was still getting a ~4k resistance without the paddle pressed. I had to use wire cutters to physically cut out the two surface mount resistors to take them out of the circuit. After doing that I was getting a much higher open resistance (there will always be some in a switch) and it works great.

This is what the downshift paddle looked like after the resistors were removed:



With these modifications, I was getting a high resistance open and very low resistance close. From there I wired the respective resistors inline and installed from there.

Hopefully this works for you. If not, check in and I can try to help you troubleshoot.

Edit: if you're concerned with the open resistance, I confirmed when installing that a 68k resistance triggered to the BCM line (as opposed to the 220 or 680 ohm to shift) has no effect on shifting. Therefore, as long as your resistance without the paddle depressed is over that, you should have no issues (I don't know the actual lower limit though).
^^^This is why I want to pay someone to put this together for me. My brain just doesn't work this way ;-(
 

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To anyone hesitant to use the low reference wire method, I can confirm after two months of driving that there have been absolutely no noticeable ill effects from this option. Driving with paddle shifters has been an absolute joy, even in the winter here, and it hasn't missed a single shift.
 

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I've been wanting to do this for quite awhile now but was always put off by the price. Now that we can use the cheaper Camaro paddles, I'm really considering it. Here are the parts I think I need.

- 2 x Switches (92245831)
- Paddle Left (13297281)
- Paddle Right (13297283)
- A 680 ohm and a 220 ohm both 1/4 watt

Now a couple things I'm confused about. In the pictures posted by Aaron407 above, the switches look different than the ones I have listed. Are there switches built into the paddles so I dont need to buy those 2 switches? Also, I dont see how the paddle actually connects to the steering wheel. In all the diagrams I see online when searching for the part, they show a little bracket and bolt. Do I need these?

Lastly, does anyone know if these paddles / switches have a solid click to them like how the SS shifters feel?
 

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The paddles themselves have the switches as a part of them, so you don't need the other switches. They have a lip on them and mount into holes cut in the shroud, but they're not terribly easy to secure. I sacrificed a soldering tip to melt the plastic of the switch edge inside the shroud to the shroud itself to make a solid joint and haven't had issues. The female bolt portion that is on the switches actually has to be cut off to allow them to mount inside the steering wheel. As for the feel, there's a very clear click when they're depressed. From appearance alone, I believe they're actually the same paddles as in the news SS.
 

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The paddles themselves have the switches as a part of them, so you don't need the other switches. They have a lip on them and mount into holes cut in the shroud, but they're not terribly easy to secure. I sacrificed a soldering tip to melt the plastic of the switch edge inside the shroud to the shroud itself to make a solid joint and haven't had issues. The female bolt portion that is on the switches actually has to be cut off to allow them to mount inside the steering wheel. As for the feel, there's a very clear click when they're depressed. From appearance alone, I believe they're actually the same paddles as in the news SS.
Well that certainly makes this project a lot cheaper. I remember reading before that someone, possibly you, saying that some of the switch had to be cut off. I'm not too worried about that, only worry I really have is making sure I cut the wires I need to cut so I dont fry anything.

Just want to be 100% sure I'm not missing anything then. I just need the two padde/switch combos (13297281, 13297283), the two different resistors, and a bit of extra wire? That's all?

Thanks
 

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Just want to be 100% sure I'm not missing anything then. I just need the two padde/switch combos (13297281, 13297283), the two different resistors, and a bit of extra wire? That's all?

Thanks
Basically yes, presuming that you'll be using your car's current shroud. I ordered a new one to be able to cut it and mount the paddles without having the car out of commission. You'll also need a ring terminal, solder, a soldering iron/pencil, and heat shrink tubing to do a reliable and clean install. There's also the option of adding an extra button for switching from manual to sport auto at the touch of a button rather than slapping the shifter back and forth, but it takes some extra time and effort to install. I had to drill a hole in the shroud and through a portion of the rubber in the wheel itself to mount the barrel of the button, but it was worth the extra effort.

Overall, it probably seems like a lot of work to install the paddles, but it's a fantastic modification. I drive in manual mode 90% of the time now because of it.
 

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Just got the paddle shifters. I ordered two sets as both my friend and I own a G8 and I plan to install them in both cars. I was unable to find the correct metal film resistors and my local radio shack, hell they didn't even have any 680 ohm resistors of any type! My friend (the g8 owner) says that he has a huge box of resistors so I'll have to dig through that to see if I can find a 220 and 680. Would it be a big problem if I used a carbon resistor with a tolerance of 5% or 10% instead of a lower tolerance metal film resistor?

I'm not too worried in the difficulty of the install as my guess is that my stereo was quite a bit harder. I'm only worried about cutting or not cutting the correct wires. I plan to utilize the low reference (?) wire I believe it is for the ground instead of the LED wire. Can anyone link to a good post laying out everything for using the other wire?

Also Aaron, I sent you a PM about something else.

EDIT:
To anybody this did this mod. Do the resistor values have to be exact? The reason I ask is because the Camaro upshift paddle already has a resistance of 634 ohms when pressed which is somewhat close to 680. The downshift paddle has two resistors, a 1.37 kOhm and 4.12kohm. When open it seems like it just has the two resistors in series and produces a resistance of 5.49 kohms and closed it just uses the 1.37kohm resistor. I'm curious if it'd be possible to remove the 4.12 kohm resistor and replace the 1.37 with a 220ohm surface mount. This would keep all the resistors within the paddle which is nice, and if I could find the same connectors that the paddles use I could even utilize those which would be awesome.
 

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Success! http://imgur.com/a/5QNSN

I made a few small changes compared to what others did. I used different solder points on the paddles as I didn't feel comfortable with the two solder points being so close together on the one paddle.

I also decided to tap into the steering wheel connector as opposed to the green wire coming off of the clockspring connector. This mean that I utilized the stock connectors to make the connection instead of just hardwiring it in. I forgot to take a picture of it, but all the wires were then hidden in the back which was nice.

I used both the Green wire to maintain the LED lights and the BCM connection point for an easier install.



Some things I messed up or had difficulties with,
- Taking the steering wheel off was near impossible. I had someone hold the steering wheel and I just cranked on that thing and had a hell of a time trying to remove the bolt.

- Cutting the holes in the shroud was quite difficult as there was no good way to trace the paddles and line them up how I wanted. In the end I just did pure guess work on the first one and then made a template of the first one to use on the second.

- Mounting the paddles onto the shroud was a pain since the paddles are pretty flat yet the shroud is rounded a bit. So I couldn't get the contact that I wanted. They also aren't designed to snap in, so you need to make the cutout pretty tight and then use some sort of adhesive to attach it to the shroud. I used superglue but it was too thin and just caused a lot of other issues.

- I turned the clock spring :eek2: I was checking out the green wire without even realizing that I was messing with the clock spring. It spun about 160 degrees, but luckily the steering wheel has a little flat spot on it, so I just lined it all back up and was good to go. Maybe I got lucky, I dont know.

- I put the paddles a little too far in. I don't have as much contact with the paddle as I would like.
 

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Looks like it all worked out fairly well for you. I feel like it's impossible to do it perfect the first time (my switches aren't evenly leveled), but yours look pretty good to me. I personally had the biggest issues with cutting the shroud and tapping into the BCM wire. Surprisingly, I didn't have much issue getting the steering wheel off by myself, but had to put a lot of upward pressure on it with my knees to hold it in place. Anyway, I'm sure you'll love the paddle shifters as much as the rest of us from the minority who were crazy enough to try this project!
 

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For sure a learning experience and I get the joys of doing this again on my friend's g8. I spent an insane amount of time cutting the shroud trying to make them fit just right and kept putting the shroud back on the wheel to see how the paddles would look on there. It was for sure the worst part.
Tapping into the BCM was a pain as well since the green plug just so happened to be the hardest one to access. I ended up unscrewing the HVAC piping that was in the way and just forced it out of the way. I also unplugged every BCM connector . I'm not sure if it saved more time or was less work going to the BCM as opposed to the shifter but it was for sure a lot cleaner.

Thanks for all the help Aaron and everyone else in this thread.
 

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My paddles stopped working yesterday, tested the resistance on the green wire off the back of the clock spring and am getting 220 down and 680 up, so it's gotta be the plastic tap I used off the bcm, I would recommend against using those, I've never had luck with them in the past either, and the fact that it's so tight down there. I'll have to pull the plastics off to make more room and tap it differently
 
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