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Discussion Starter #1
My 2009 just turned 120k and it's time for some suspension work. Here's my parts list:

Monroe PPV Struts and Shocks from Rockauto
Tein S-Tech Lowering Springs from Amazon
Whiteline Strut Bushings from MaverickMan ($80 cheaper than Whiteline's site?!)
Super Pro, Radius Rod Caster Plates from BMR

Am I missing anything for this install? I know I could go deeper with more upgrades but this is where I've started. I'm getting prices from two local shops. Can't wait to see/feel the difference.
 

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(Sorry - over looked the caster plates in your list- Leaving my comment for general info) Caster adjusting bolts. One for each side. The GM ones (922118339) only do about 0.5 deg and are fixed. You are either adding 0.5 deg or subtracting 0.5 deg depending on direction of the spacer when you install them. Cammed aftermarket ones can be infinitely adjusted up to 0.75 - 1.0 degs. I used a GM caster adjuster to correct the pull to one side after installing PPVs and getting an alignment. I recommend the adjustable after market ones. A little more caster will give tighter straight ahead tracking.

120K on the crap factory fe2s? I couldn't stand them from day 1 and installed PPVs at 25k. IMO GTs should have come from the factory with PPVs. Lowering Springs and PPVs are gonna be a huge change. Be patient as the PPVs will take several hundred miles or more to break-in and smooth out.
 

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Spring seat insulators. If/When you get your old ones out, you'll wish you had new ones. Order early. Camaro uses the same ones. My Monroe PPV rear shocks came with lower insulators installed. I asked Monroe and they said they are not included... so maybe they've been removed since I bought the shocks.

The dampers will come with new hardware.

I got Polylast upper mounts. Very happy with their performance and quiet behavior.

New upper rear shock mounts, there are a few versions for the 5th gen Camaro out there and they all fit. There are unconfirmed stiffness differences for different suspension codes. I got the Moog brand mounts, which I assume are the standard code equivalent and am pleased with them.
 

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If you're getting SuperPro Radius Arms, why not get the control arms as well?

Also, I would definitely consider going with the SuperPro Polyelast strut mounts. Best ride quality, and won't degrade. If you do ever have an issue, lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
(Sorry - over looked the caster plates in your list- Leaving my comment for general info) Caster adjusting bolts. One for each side. The GM ones (922118339) only do about 0.5 deg and are fixed. You are either adding 0.5 deg or subtracting 0.5 deg depending on direction of the spacer when you install them.
I'm looking at the Super Pro, Radius Rod Caster Plates from BMR. Item no. SPF-2859K
 

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Those are similar to the GM caster adjusters except the holes are offset more giving closer to 1 degree of adjustment (vs ~0.5 deg for the GM parts). However with this style you can only add the 1 degree or subtract it. Nothing in between. I suggest finding the cam style adjusters so the caster can be dialed in on each side of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Anyone have expo with these?
SPC Peformance 81260 EZ Cam XR 14mm Adjustable Camber Bolts +/-1.75 degree
 

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Do not use poly strut bushings. They will over lower the front end. The SuperPro Polyelast are the best choice. They are the same height as stock strut bushings. I ran that same combo with BMR poly strut bushings and my front bumper scraped on everything. With the Polyelast the car was level and not a problem anymore
 

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Do not use poly strut bushings (SPF1590BK (polyurethane)). They will over lower the front end. The SuperPro Polyelast (SPF1590AK (Polyelast)) are the best choice. They are the same height as stock strut bushings. I ran that same combo with BMR poly strut bushings and my front bumper scraped on everything. With the Polyelast the car was level and not a problem anymore
Emphasis above by me for clarity.

 

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I've had a bad experience with the rubber top-of-front-strut bushings from gtog8ta.com. Just half a year later and one of them tore apart.
 

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I've had a bad experience with the rubber top-of-front-strut bushings from gtog8ta.com. Just half a year later and one of them tore apart.
The SuperPro SPF1590AK (Polyelast) is the solution.

Lifetime warranty as well.

See the thread I posted with all of our experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Spring seat insulators. If/When you get your old ones out, you'll wish you had new ones. Order early. Camaro uses the same ones. My Monroe PPV rear shocks came with lower insulators installed. I asked Monroe and they said they are not included... so maybe they've been removed since I bought the shocks.

I'm shopping for these as you'd suggested. Just to clarify, you're recommending Spring Seat Insulators for upper and lower front and back?
Front/Upper: 92279412
Front/Lower: 92295781
Rear/Upper: 92252103
Rear/Lower: 92244437 (These say discontinued) Anyone have a PPV or Camaro equivalent?
 

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The 2010-2015 camaro rear coil spring insulators are identical and also cheaper.
GM 92232065 - Rear Coil Spring Insulator, Upper (x2)
GM 92232063 - Rear Coil Spring Insulator, Lower (x2)

The front ones are not identical so you will need to use the G8 part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The 2010-2015 camaro rear coil spring insulators are identical and also cheaper.
GM 92232065 - Rear Coil Spring Insulator, Upper (x2)
GM 92232063 - Rear Coil Spring Insulator, Lower (x2)

The front ones are not identical so you will need to use the G8 part numbers.
One thousand thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When everyone else is saving their $$ I’m wrapping up this work. My shop wrapped up all of the work and I am very pleased.

To review, I went with Monroe PPV struts and shocks, Tein springs, whitelines, and did replace the upper and rear insulators and also the dust sleeve/boots. While they were in there they noticed and replaced sway bar links as well.

I only have a few miles on it but have to say that it handles better than when I first bought the car. (I bought it with 40k miles back in 2011). The ride is MUCH sportier and is a bit bouncy but as I’ve read, this will calm down a bit after a few hundred miles. What I like best is how tight everything is/feels. Gone are the creaks and bangs that I’d just gotten used to. I’m delighted with this update. Thanks to g8board for all of the help and advice.

in regards to it’s stance, it’s not super low. I went from three fingers up front to maybe 2-2 1/2. The rears are at maybe at 1 1/2 fingers. Will things lower over time? I had rolled the rears for my 9.5” wheels so I’m not worried, just curious.

Again, thanks to all!
 

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The ride height will probably decrease as the struts compress and settle although it shouldn't be a dramatic difference. Enjoy the new setup.
 

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When you said 'bouncy' that means (to me) up and down motion of the suspension. If that is happening, something is wrong. If the G8's ride feels edgy like over seams and sharp transitions in the pavement, that is what us PPV users have experienced and will decrease with break-in miles. As mentioned - new springs do settle in but should be minimal with quality products.
 

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To review, I went with Monroe PPV struts and shocks, Tein springs, whitelines, and did replace the upper and rear insulators and also the dust sleeve/boots. While they were in there they noticed and replaced sway bar links as well.
Why did you go with the Whiteline strut mounts?

in regards to it’s stance, it’s not super low. I went from three fingers up front to maybe 2-2 1/2. The rears are at maybe at 1 1/2 fingers. Will things lower over time? I had rolled the rears for my 9.5” wheels so I’m not worried, just curious.
What is this measurement? Hub to guard in mm would be more accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Why did you go with the Whiteline strut mounts?

In reading all of the threads here on the board, it seemed like the Whiteline were a very popular choice.


What is this measurement? Hub to guard in mm would be more accurate.
I don't have calipers that I could get you an accurate measurements. I can tell you that they're sucked down close to the engine bay now.
 
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