Pontiac G8 Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive replaced the breaks , and calipers and front wheels are still locked . ive cheked and rechecked 3 different times the break pads and the way they sit and am not sure i have them sitting correctly. Can some one tell me the proper way to seat them into the calipers? And to why my front breaks are still locked my cars been down two months from this i need help please.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,208 Posts
Welcome to the forum Rachelrae. Place the vehicle on jack-stands. Spin the wheels by hand and see if one/both doesn't turn freely. Considering the car has been down two months and counting, is towing it a mechanic not a viable option?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The wheels wont turn untill i release the bleeder screw then they become unlocked. But then the minute you step on the break pedal they lock back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes it does .
I will start frim the beginning when i had issue maybe that will shed light here lol.. I appreciate everyones responses.

I first noticed something wrong with the car when my son and i were driving it seemed to pull slightly to one side out of no where then when you would get ready to step on break to stop it was as almost break would push before i had it fully pushed down as normal. " thought that was strange" 😳 as i kind of let that go i kept driving and problem never went away or got any worse as it was ,then next day or so my back passanger tire goes flat i managed to get to tire shop , most my tires they said needed to be replaced !!!which i saw two they pulled off which were in horrible shape i mean horrible smh ...so $650 dollars later i pulled out with all four new tires. but not long after is when the front wheels started feeling as though my ebrake was on😲😲 as i didnt drive much because i get super paranoid when something goes wrong on my car i decided to replace spark plugs and coils got a oil change. Then replaced the throttle body due to i was haveing issuse way prior to all this. After that i figured everything should be fine "I FELT EVERYTHING DAMN NEAR NEW" LOL. I go to drive and front wheels feel bad like u really needed to step on the gas to get the car to move and even then almost imposible so i started thinking my transmission must have failed some way so $200 later in tow fees from my house to abc transmission shop back to my house i was relived my transmission was 👍 but before it went to shop if you put the car in drive sometimes it would move other times u would have to go from park to drive a couple times then id be able to go (as this was the reason i felt tranny was slipping , to why i took to tranny shop). Ok so fast forward transmission was good they told me to come get car something was clearly up with breaks so get in car to bring home and my back wheel spin so much rocks fly i dug damn near a grave but car wasent going anywhere no movemnt. 🙅fast forward i get car back home from tow then realized the break pads were none and calipers were locked so i checked the calipers they ended up needed to be replaced i did that two brand new ones . new break pads i did that still they were locked so i replace driver side break house or sum call flex hose . i did that car threw a break pedal senor switch i replaced that. I did that! Let me say people I DID ALL THIS MYSELF👏👏🙌🙌💃💃 WITH THE HELP AND Assistance OF MR. STRICKLAND thank you to the moon and back by the way. But as today there still locked and ive become irritated and energy depleated almost compleatly as to ecery day all day im out there tryn to diagnose something else and yet to get rolling so please help me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
552 Posts
To expand on Sheffield Steves post.

Based on you saying opening bleeders releases them

When the brakes are "holding on" I would crack the two lines right at the master.

If they release , then you are looking at one of the following,
Pedal linkage or stops, switches preventing the master to return all the way so equalization ports are closed.
Booster up to no good. Only ever seen this once myself . The vehicle would start applying its own brakes . Issues with reaction valve.
Master blocked , stuck, not returning .

If loosening the lines DOES release the brakes,
Get it to do it again, start loosening the master mounting bolts and note what happens.
This to see if master is causing or linkage- booster.

If the brakes stay on when you loosen the master lines , then it does smell like ABS.
Never personally dealt with that myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
Had experience on other vehicles, calipers check/move ok cold and your still cracking pads or hold too much pressue when hot, change the flex lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like the master cylinder/brake booster or maybe the ABS pump.

Does it do this with the engine off?

If it was only one wheel locked up, then it would probably be a collapsed brake hose.
Sounds like the master cylinder/brake booster or maybe the ABS pump.

Does it do this with the engine off?

If it was only one wheel locked up, then it would probably be a collapsed brake hose.
Thats what i kinda was leaning ti but i dont know . yes it still remains locked when cars off soon as break pedal is touched and is both wheels .
To expand on Sheffield Steves post.

Based on you saying opening bleeders releases them

When the brakes are "holding on" I would crack the two lines right at the master.

If they release , then you are looking at one of the following,
Pedal linkage or stops, switches preventing the master to return all the way so equalization ports are closed.
Booster up to no good. Only ever seen this once myself . The vehicle would start applying its own brakes . Issues with reaction valve.
Master blocked , stuck, not returning .

If loosening the lines DOES release the brakes,
Get it to do it again, start loosening the master mounting bolts and note what happens.
This to see if master is causing or linkage- booster.

If the brakes stay on when you loosen the master lines , then it does smell like ABS.
Never personally dealt with that myself.
So if i release the bolts on the master going to the booster when i do that if the wheels do unlock that would point to what? And should the car be on or off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
...So if i release the bolts on the master going to the booster when i do that if the wheels do unlock that would point to what? And should the car be on or off?
car off. If the wheels unlock it would be a bad booster. If the pressure remains it points to the master.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,208 Posts
(1)...but not long after is when the front wheels started feeling as though my ebrake was on😲😲... (2)...on my car i decided to replace spark plugs and coils... (3)...so $200 later in tow fees from my house to abc transmission shop back to my house... (4).... realized the break pads were none and calipers were locked...
1. The emergency brakes are on the rear wheels of the vehicle. 2. Why were the spark plugs and ignition coils changed? 3. For future reference, may want to invest in a roadside assistance plan. 4. Brake pads were...? 5. Current mileage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
1. The emergency brakes are on the rear wheels of the vehicle. 2. Why were the spark plugs and ignition coils changed? 3. For future reference, may want to invest in a roadside assistance plan. 4. Brake pads were...? 5. Current mileage?
The rear wheels are not locked. Spark plugs and coils were changed because they were needed to be changed i was misfiring and coils i never changed figured why not change coils when i was doing spark plugs. Breaks were completely gone. I had taken to les schwab they told me there gone so thats why those got changes. Current mileage somewhere around 156000 ish.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,208 Posts
Upon rereading the thread, seems like it could be the master cylinder as previously mentioned. If the brake calipers were stuck, they wouldn't release upon opening the bleeder valves. If air was present in the system, the brake pedal would feel "spongy". The flexible line has already been replaced. A faulty abs control module merely disables the anti-lock brake feature and won't cause the wheels to lock unless the brakes are applied and held while cruising down the boulevard. Furthermore, if the anti-lock brake system has a fault, then some sort of indicator light should appear on the instrument cluster or message in the drivers' information center.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Had experience on other vehicles, calipers check/move ok cold and your still cracking pads or hold too much pressue when hot, change the flex lines.
Yep, replace the flexible (non-metallic) part of the brake line near the caliper, that allows the brake line to move up and down with the suspension. They are good for about 10-20 years, but the rubber actually starts to swell from the inside, can't tell from the outside. It creates a narrow tunnel for the brake fluid to get to the caliper. When you step on the brake, all the pressure easily squeezes the fluid to the caliper to apply the brake pads, but when you let off the brake, the pressure takes a long while to bleed back thru that narrow internal passage in the brake line, and therefore the pads don't release from the caliper. I had it happen to one of my front calipers, it locked up while traveling. I cut the rubber brake line to the caliper, and quickly treaded in a screw to the cut end and clamped it with a small hose clamp. Do it fast before you lose any brake fluid. I drove home with brakes on only three wheels, but cutting that line released the pads from the caliper so that wheel could roll and I could get home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I am sure if you want, let us know what area of the country, there are lots of members that may be willing to PM you and offer a hand also.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top