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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry in advance for the redundant question. I know this TTY stuff has been beaten to death, but I think I have a legit question:

I have new pads and rotors for my rear ready to go this weekend, but I don't have any of the 92172963 mounting bolts with pre-applied thread locker. I see based on the service manual that the front caliper bracket to knuckle bolts are TTY since they specify a torque and an angle, however, the rears only show a torque value. Does this mean the only reason for discarding the rear fasteners is due to the left over loc-tite?

Obviously, I don't know why they are requiring discarding the bolts, but I didn't know if anyone else did?
 

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I'm on the side of reusing the same bolts. They don't talk about running a tap thru the knuckle threads to clean out any possible left over loctite material in them. So other than possibly wire wheeling the bolts clean (your choice), I added fresh loctite to the original bolts, and re-torqued. I'm sure that set torque is very close to actual (old loctite left as is, or removed) in the threads.
 

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^^+1. You can reuse them. If they're in good shape, wire brush clean and reapply blue locktite. I reused all of my bolts and clips because they were in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the input, guys. My concern wasn't really the thread locker more than it was the torque to yield aspect of the fasteners.

The torque spec calls for 81 lb-ft (I think) on the rear caliper bracket bolts, which unlike the fronts, doesn't include an extra angle call out. The additional angle call out on the torque spec is indicative of a TTY application and in that case, I would not reuse the fastener since it has already work hardened once. However in this case, it doesn't appear to be a TTY.

Does anybody know what the caliper bracket bolt specs are? I think M12 x 40m x ??

Any other opinions are welcome
 

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I guess the rears aren't TTY then, but regardless, the reason they say to use new bolts is the same reason the manual tells you to use safety glasses if you're doing ANYTHING on the car. Liability. They know that with something that is taken apart and replaced more often, like brakes, putting a new bolt on can protect them from lawsuits if the installer used faulty parts. I guarantee the dealer doesn't replace these bolts when they're turning your rotors. However, these bolts are cheap, so pick a few up for piece of mind. I've reused rear and front bolts once I've deemed them in good shape on many cars, including the G8.
 

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I just looked at an old post of mine (when I did the brakes) and bought new (re-torque-able) bolts. They needed M12 x1.5 x40. All positions were torqued to 80# (my choice).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. I have no problem picking up new bolts, but nobody has the damn things in stock and I want to do this over the long weekend I have.

Gopher, where did you pick up those bolts?
 

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Like you, I needed those bolts NOW. Went to a local fastener store, that deals is every type of bolt/nut combos as well as clip nuts etc. I had, but seem to have misplaced the required P/N for a 5 pack of the correct ARP bolts (which I would have preferred), but did not know where to go to see if they were in stock to buy in a timely manner (car on jacks at the time).


Add--- ARP caliper to knuckle bolts (5 pack) M12 x 1.5 x 40>>> 6pt= P/N 664-1004 >>> 12pt= P/N 674-1004
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Like you, I needed those bolts NOW. Went to a local fastener store, that deals is every type of bolt/nut combos as well as clip nuts etc. I had, but seem to have misplaced the required P/N for a 5 pack of the correct ARP bolts (which I would have preferred), but did not know where to go to see if they were in stock to buy in a timely manner (car on jacks at the time).


Add--- ARP caliper to knuckle bolts (5 pack) M12 x 1.5 x 40>>> 6pt= P/N 664-1004 >>> 12pt= P/N 674-1004
Appreciate that sir. Now I just need to find a place!
 

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when I did my brake job I saw no difference in the front and rear brake caliper bolts. I've heard that the angle spec doesn't necessarily mean tty as well. I reused all bolts. Even checked the bolts a week later and they seemed just fine.
 

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Call TotallyStainless.com 1-800-767-4781 in Pennsylvania. I'm sure they can Fedex or UPS them to you in a timely manner. Their part # is 1-2485 M12-1.5-40mm, grade 10.9 hi-strength stainless steel, 6-pt flange head bolt. They may even be ARP's. Last time I looked, about $6.50 each.
 

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Buy a wire brush and some blue locktite. $6 bolt won't stop you any faster. Spend that money on better brake pads, and the clips and slide seals. That way you won't be making any posts in 6 month about abnormal pad wear or calipers sticking or squeaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks all. I put the car up last weekend, got the wheels off and started bleeding the fluid. Then I took the pads out of the passenger rear, no problem. Then, I pulled the caliper bracket off; I don't think these bolts are TTY. There was no visible plastic deformation, so I cleaned them off.

Rotor was rusted to the hub when I realized I didn't have anything to bang on it with! So, I figured at least I would change the pads, right? Nope. C-clamp was like a 1/4" too small to fit over the caliper. Needless to say, I wasted an entire Saturday!
:cry: :comp:
 
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