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Hello folks,
New to the car scene (been in and still have diesel truck and fast boat). I recently bought a 2008 G8 GT with a 402 stroker. The owner of the car didn’t have a whole lot of info to give me as far as a true build sheet, he went off of what he was told by the previous owner. I know, kinda sketchy. The person I bought the car from tore the valve covers and front cover off the engine and verified at least the parts he could see. He also put a 3200 stall in. The downside to this is the car had a terrible tune on it so these people hardly ever drove the car (500-1000 miles) in one year. I had the car retuned, it runs great but I want to change the oil. Not sure what to go with since I don’t know the tolerances. I have a pretty scarce build list just by what I was told and what info we were able to dig up so I’ll post that in hopes of someone pointing me in the right direction. The guy fixed the tuning runs Rotella T6 in his G8. Thanks for any help!
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Rotella T6 5W-40 is a popular choice. The real reason to go to it is if you need additional hot oil viscosity, otherwise (insert brand) 5W-30 synthetic is a solid choice.

With my new engine (stock crank, forged rods and pistons), I started running Driven LS30 (5W-30). I see about 28 psi of hot oil pressure at idle, and about 50-60 psi at WOT. So far I'm happy with it.
In my old setup (stock engine, cam, new oil pump, new cam bearings) I ran Rotella and saw about 40psi at idle and still 50-60 psi at WOT.

Again, either is a good choice. You can run one then switch to the other and compare results.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rotella T6 5W-40 is a popular choice. The real reason to go to it is if you need additional hot oil viscosity, otherwise (insert brand) 5W-30 synthetic is a solid choice.

With my new engine (stock crank, forged rods and pistons), I started running Driven LS30 (5W-30). I see about 28 psi of hot oil pressure at idle, and about 50-60 psi at WOT. So far I'm happy with it.
In my old setup (stock engine, cam, new oil pump, new cam bearings) I ran Rotella and saw about 40psi at idle and still 50-60 psi at WOT.

Again, either is a good choice. You can run one then switch to the other and compare results.
Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure how accurate the digital gauge is on these cars, I know they did away with them on the 2009 models. My cars digital gauge says 30psi whether its cold, hot, at idle, or at WOT. I have never seen it move off of 30.....going to hook up a manual gauge and double check it.
 

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Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure how accurate the digital gauge is on these cars, I know they did away with them on the 2009 models. My cars digital gauge says 30psi whether its cold, hot, at idle, or at WOT. I have never seen it move off of 30.....going to hook up a manual gauge and double check it.
Are you referring to the Atari gauge in the middle? If so, that's reading bar not psi, and no, not terribly accurate.

Easiest way is to read it is from the OBD port using any number of this... HPTuners, Torque App on Android (or similar, Aeroforce gauge, etc. Of course mechanical always works too, but not the easiest for driving around.
 

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Ahh gotcha, yes referring to the center stack gauge. Didn't know it was bar, thanks for that. Would you be able to use something like an Edge CTS-2 monitor on these cars? That's what I am using to monitor my diesel's parameters.
 

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Ahh gotcha, yes referring to the center stack gauge. Didn't know it was bar, thanks for that. Would you be able to use something like an Edge CTS-2 monitor on these cars? That's what I am using to monitor my diesel's parameters.
Possibly. Does it plug in via OBD? Worst case it does nothing.
 

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Yes, uses OBD. I may take the one out of my truck and see if it works in the car before I buy one for the car itself.
Do you use Android or Apple? If Android, the cheapest way to monitor everything is the Torque Pro app ($4.99) coupled with a $10-$15 bluetooth OBD dongle.
 

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Do you use Android or Apple? If Android, the cheapest way to monitor everything is the Torque Pro app ($4.99) coupled with a $10-$15 bluetooth OBD dongle.
I'm on iPhone, I have read about some apps that people say work pretty good. I'll look into it further. Thanks!
 

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Seems like you have a lot of good parts in there. Assuming everything is assembled properly and you get a reliable tune it should be a stout machine. I run the Mobil1 5W30 full synthetic as per OEM spec, but am considering something a little heavier for the next track day. Never had any pressure issues with what I've got however I plan on having more power/heat soon. On an unrelated note...have you ever done any engineering drawings?
 

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Seems like you have a lot of good parts in there. Assuming everything is assembled properly and you get a reliable tune it should be a stout machine. I run the Mobil1 5W30 full synthetic as per OEM spec, but am considering something a little heavier for the next track day. Never had any pressure issues with what I've got however I plan on having more power/heat soon. On an unrelated note...have you ever done any engineering drawings?
I thought so too. It’s got a good start to a decent build and the car was cheap enough so that’s why I picked it up. I have not done any official engineering drawings but I do work in a chemical plant and have to do flow sketches fairly often
 

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Seems like you have a lot of good parts in there. Assuming everything is assembled properly and you get a reliable tune it should be a stout machine. I run the Mobil1 5W30 full synthetic as per OEM spec, but am considering something a little heavier for the next track day. Never had any pressure issues with what I've got however I plan on having more power/heat soon. On an unrelated note...have you ever done any engineering drawings?
The hand writing, right? It's amazing 😅

I run 5w30 Mobile One in my LSA 408, seems to do the trick.
 
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