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Very well and great you were able to locate the issue. Hopefully, the fuse won't blow again. Read and heard about many of the individuals plight there and the whole ERCOT/ power plant debacle. At any rate, hang in there and it seems the temperature may get above freezing (some parts) within the next few days or so.
 

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My question is why do you have a BAP if you have a dual pump system?
 

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Well I feel like a dufus.
......
I promptly went to roof of house and jump off hoping it would end my misery, but I landed safely in the snow down here in frigid Texas.
Don't feel too bad. When mine had the aforementioned wire issue, I was certain it was a fuel sender issue in the tank based on the experience of others here. It lead me to cut a hole in the floor pan to get to the pump/sender, put a new unit in and button it back up with a fuel pump access cover kit. And that got me nothing but a lighter wallet. Then I found the broken wire.
 

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So how is it, that when the BAP 30A fuse opens, it magically shuts-down your in tank fuel pump at the same time ? I say this because the OEM pump has its own dedicated wiring circuit with its own protecting 20A fuse. .

Plus what "GT Drew" says. Kinda makes it read like you have 2 in tank pumps plus the BAP
 

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Lone Star State
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Discussion Starter #25
My question is why do you have a BAP if you have a dual pump system?
I'm not sure if the BAP is 100% necessary, but the engine was a total build only using the original block and I guess the fuel demand was needed. Supercharged 419 stroker, heads, cam, larger injectors, meth injection, tuned for MS109, etc.
 

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Ok you have dual pumps. Are they the stock CTS-V dual pumps or are they up graded? With dual pumps you should only need the use the PWM to raise and lower fuel demand. Having a BAP working against the PWM .
 

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Lone Star State
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Discussion Starter #27
Ok you have dual pumps. Are they the stock CTS-V dual pumps or are they up graded? With dual pumps you should only need the use the PWM to raise and lower fuel demand. Having a BAP working against the PWM .
It's a Livernois Firestorm dual pump setup made for the Chevy SS. I think Livernois is building the setup.
 

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On there site they list the pump supports up to 800hp. Was yours ever dynoed?
 

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,
 

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Lone Star State
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Discussion Starter #31

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You might want to ask Livernois, but from what I read on there site. Your pump is a “dual ZL1” pump set up. You need better pumps. Dual Aeromotive Stealth 325 or Dual Deatchwerks 300c. Each it these pumps will support 700 hp or 1400 as a pair. This should make your car more reliable and easier to tune. BAP is known for shortening the life of pumps. This added capacity would cover the demands even one at your power level.
 

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Lone Star State
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Discussion Starter #33
You might want to ask Livernois, but from what I read on there site. Your pump is a “dual ZL1” pump set up. You need better pumps. Dual Aeromotive Stealth 325 or Dual Deatchwerks 300c. Each it these pumps will support 700 hp or 1400 as a pair. This should make your car more reliable and easier to tune. BAP is known for shortening the life of pumps. This added capacity would cover the demands even one at your power level.
Thanks. I'm open to having a simpler and more reliable system. Too many gadgets are just more areas that could fail.
 
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