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Tighten the filter as tight as you can with your hand only. I have never had one back off and I've done 1000's of oil changes.
Thanks. I've done about 10 in my life none were anywhere as easy to remove as that one.

I measured the drained oil and it was right around 8 quarts. I put around 8.5 back in to get me right in between the middle and top dots.
 

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I'd vote on loose filter.
This. I had a Mobil 1 filter back off on me, I tightened it, and it backed off again. I ended up switching to a different brand of filter during the next oil change.
 

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So looks like im in store for a oil pan gasket replacement.

For the guys claiming they did it very quick, did you have to touch or loosen any of the steering components like the service manual says?

The front bolt looks tough to reach.
 

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when I was doing my dod delete I noticed that I had oil coming from the rear area of the pan,, I had to drop the pan anyway to remove the by pass plug ,, I removed the motor mount nuts on the botton side and raised up the engine until the studs just about where out of the holes and wedged some cut 2x4 blocks(one on each side) lower the motor and you will have clearance to remove the pan,, while your in there change out the Oring on the oil pump pick up tube (there is a green one available now ), also before you re install the new gasket and pan, take some brake clean and wash the area in the rear where the rear main cover meets the block,, put a small bead on that seam (left and right ) this way if the gasket has detreated between the block and rear main plate your covered , install the new gasket and pan ,, I was pleasantly surprised when I put my car back on the lift after test drive there was no oil leaking at the seam or oil pan ,,, just my 02 cents gmonde
 

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^^^^^^^What gmonde said. Permatex the seems at the timing cover to block as well as the the rear main plate. I just got under there after doing this 4 months ago and it was dry. The reason I had to do it in the first place was to put heilcoils in the back two oil pan bolts due to stripping them out during the cam change. Back two bolt have a lower torque and are very easy to strip if not careful. The front bolts are a PITA especially with that harness tray there. I decided to do an underdrive pulley at the same time.
 

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Just FYI, I got a quote for the rear main seal and the installation of a stall. 600-800 depending on if they needed to remove the headers for clearance. The main alone would be 600. I would find another dealer next go around.
 

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Morris,

The price that you were quoted was from a dealer? They are charging me $1200 or so to do the work down here in south florida. I've been asking around for a reputable shop that deals with chevy's to take my car to and still no luck. Most guys i know deal with imports so im kind of leary about asking them to do it for me.
 

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Anthony85 - I am in SE Florida, too, and was recently told I had both a main seal and an oil pan gasket leak! Did you ever find somewhere / someone to do your work?
 

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Just got the news that I have the infamous Oil Pan leak...and the dealer told me it was going to cost a lot since they have to remove the engine. Is this BS? Since this problem is fairly common, I'm assuming many of you would know the cost to get it fixed.
 

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I was looking at my car and the oil pan is accessible why do you need to pull engine
Looks can be deceiving. Engine is raised to get adequate clearance to remove the oil pan. Pulling the engine is not necessary.
 

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I just had my gasket replaced and it cost about 1000. That's in So Cal and other quotes were around the same price.

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